8 days in Istanbul

The old heart of the city. The big sights stand close together on the hill above the sea, so it is mostly walking and looking up. Check ahead for how and when each building is open.

1. Breakfast

   A Turkish breakfast

   A table of white cheese, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggs, bread and jam, with plenty of black tea. A slow start before a big day.

   Local tip Order a few things to share, and ask for more bread if you need it.

   
2. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   Hagia Sophia

   The great domed church of the old Byzantine city, later a mosque, with a huge central space lit from the windows high above. How and when visitors can enter has changed over the years, so check ahead.

   Go when Early morning, before the tour groups arrive.

   Local tip Stand in the middle of the floor and turn slowly. Check ahead for how visitors enter, and cover your shoulders and knees.

   

   About 6 min walk0.5 km
3. 2
   MorningWorth the time

   Blue Mosque

   A mosque with six minarets and a cascade of domes, named for the blue tiles inside. It is a working place of worship, so cover your shoulders and knees, take your shoes off and expect visits to pause at prayer times.

   Go when Morning, outside the prayer times.

   Local tip Cover your shoulders and knees, take your shoes off at the door and expect visits to pause for prayer, and on Friday around midday.

   

   About 2 min walk0.1 km
4. 3
   AfternoonWorth a short walk

   Hippodrome of Constantinople

   A long open square where chariot races were once held. A few ancient monuments still stand along it, including an Egyptian obelisk, and it is a good place to sit between two big sights.

   Go when Between the two big sights, with a tea in the shade.

   Local tip Look for the tall stone obelisk with its carved base, and the twisted bronze column beside it.

   

5. Lunch

   Kofte and bean salad

   Grilled meatballs with a cool salad of white beans and onion, a classic plain lunch in the old city. It is quick and filling.

   Local tip Look for a small place near the Hippodrome where the grill is in the window.

   

   About 5 min walk0.4 km
6. 4
   AfternoonWorth a short visit

   Basilica Cistern

   A vast underground water hall from the Byzantine city, with rows of columns rising from shallow water. Cool and dim, it is a good break from the heat or the rain. Check ahead, since the cistern has closed for work before.

   Go when Mid-afternoon, or in the rain.

   Local tip It is cool and damp underground, so bring a light layer in summer. Check ahead, since the cistern has had closures for work.

   

7. Dinner

   Meze and a grill

   Small plates of eggplant, yogurt, stuffed vine leaves and fresh bread, then a simple grill. A relaxed first-night dinner.

   Local tip Walk a few streets from the main sights for a calmer table.

   

A day inside the walls of the old palace, then two museums for the middle of the day. It is a lot of stone and a lot of rooms, so choose and leave the rest.

1. 1
   MorningPick your courtyards

   Topkapi Palace

   The home of the Ottoman sultans for centuries, a set of courtyards, pavilions and terraces above the water. Pick the courtyards and the views first, and go room by room only as far as you like.

   Go when Morning, as soon as you can get in.

   Local tip Do not try to see every room. Take the courtyards, the terrace view of the strait and one or two pavilions, and rest on a bench.

   

   About 2 min walk0.2 km
2. 2
   MiddayPick your rooms

   Istanbul Archaeology Museums

   Three museums in a group of old buildings below the palace, with sarcophagi, ancient statues and objects from across the old empires. A cool, quiet place for the hot hours.

   Go when Midday, when the heat or the rain is at its worst.

   Local tip The sarcophagi in the main building are the best known. Take your time with a few and skip the rest.

   

3. Lunch

   Pide, a boat-shaped flatbread

   Pide is a baked flatbread folded around cheese, meat or egg. Easy to share, and simple to eat after a museum.

   Local tip Ask for it fresh from the oven, and eat it while it is hot.

   About 2 min walk0.2 km
4. 3
   AfternoonA place to sit

   Gulhane Park

   The old palace gardens, now a public park of tall trees, flower beds and shaded paths. In spring there are tulips, and it is an easy place to sit down.

   Go when Late afternoon, in the shade.

   Local tip In spring the beds fill with tulips. Walk to the far end for a view over the strait.

   

5. Dinner

   Lamb on smoky eggplant

   A dish of tender lamb stew over a puree of smoked eggplant, a dish with Ottoman roots that is still on many menus.

   Local tip Order it with plain rice and a bowl of yogurt.

   

A day of crowds and covered streets. The Grand Bazaar in the morning, a great mosque on a hill, then the spice market and the bridge over the Golden Horn.

1. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   Grand Bazaar

   A huge covered market of lanes, courtyards and little shops, one of the largest and oldest covered markets anywhere. Get lost on purpose for an hour and use the gates to find your way out.

   Go when Morning, when the lanes are still calm.

   Local tip Note the gate you came in by. Looking is free and bargaining is expected, so there is no need to hurry or to buy.

   

2. Lunch

   A kebab near the bazaar

   The streets around the bazaar are full of kebab places, grills and small lunchrooms. Eat standing or sitting among the traders.

   Local tip A glass of ayran, a salty yogurt drink, goes well with grilled meat.

   

   About 9 min walk0.7 km
3. 2
   MiddayWorth the time

   Suleymaniye Mosque

   The great mosque on the third hill, built for a sultan by the famous architect Sinan. The courtyard and the terrace behind it look out over the Golden Horn.

   Go when Late morning, outside the prayer times.

   Local tip Cover your shoulders and knees and take your shoes off. The terrace on the far side looks out over the Golden Horn.

   

   About 7 min walk0.6 km
4. 3
   AfternoonWorth a short visit

   Spice Bazaar

   A covered market of spices, dried fruit, nuts, tea and sweets near the water. Walk through slowly and take a taste of Turkish delight.

   Go when Afternoon, then walk to the water.

   Local tip Taste before you buy. The streets outside the walls are full of food shops, and that is where many locals shop.

   

5. Treat

   Turkish delight and baklava

   Soft Turkish delight and crisp, syrupy baklava are the sweets of the old city. Buy a small amount and taste first.

   Local tip Ask for a sample and buy a small box, not a large one.

   

   About 6 min walk0.5 km
6. 4
   EveningAn evening walk

   Galata Bridge

   The long bridge over the Golden Horn, lined with anglers on the upper level and fish restaurants below. A walk across it leads from the old city to Galata.

   Go when Around sunset (about 7:43 PM), when the domes turn gold.

   Local tip Walk the upper deck among the anglers, and look back at the mosques across the water.

   

7. Dinner

   A fish sandwich by the water

   Grilled fish in bread with onion and salad, eaten on the shore near the bridge, a simple Istanbul tradition. Eat it while watching the boats.

   Local tip Add a squeeze of lemon, and wash it down with a glass of pickle juice if you want to try the local way.

   

A quieter day on the old shore of the Golden Horn: a church full of painted domes, colorful steep streets and a hilltop view. It involves hills and a taxi or bus between stops.

1. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   Chora Church

   A small Byzantine church known for its mosaics and wall paintings, far from the main tourist routes. Its status and visiting times have changed over the years, so check ahead before you go.

   Go when Morning, when it is quiet.

   Local tip Check ahead for how and when the church is open to visitors. The mosaics are in the small domes, so look up.

   

   About 10 min walk0.8 km
2. 2
   MiddayWorth the time

   Balat

   An old neighborhood of steep streets, painted houses and small cafes, once home to Greek, Jewish and Armenian families. Walk without a plan and look up at the balconies.

   Go when Late morning, then stay for lunch.

   Local tip The streets are steep and cobbled, so wear flat shoes. Walk uphill first and drift back down.

   

   About 3 min walk0.3 km
3. 3
   AfternoonWorth a short look

   Bulgarian St. Stephen Church

   A church made of iron, cast in pieces and put together on the shore of the Golden Horn. Look at the fine detail of the metal outside.

   Go when Afternoon, on the walk along the shore.

   Local tip The church is iron, not stone. Check ahead for whether you can go in, and look closely at the details outside.

   

4. Lunch

   Lahmacun in Balat

   Lahmacun is a thin, round flatbread topped with spiced meat, usually rolled up with salad and lemon. Quick and light.

   Local tip Squeeze lemon over it, add parsley and roll it by hand.

   

   About 11 min by car or transit3.1 km
5. 4
   EveningA view and a tea

   Pierre Loti Hill

   A hilltop above the Golden Horn with a wide view over the water and the domes. It is a popular place for tea at the end of the day.

   Go when Late afternoon, around sunset (about 7:43 PM).

   Local tip You can reach the hilltop on foot, through an old cemetery, or by cable car. Check ahead for the cable car.

6. Treat

   Turkish tea at the top of the hill

   Tea in small glasses, served on the hilltop with a long view over the water. A calm way to end the day.

   Local tip Order a second glass. It is the custom.

   

A day across the Golden Horn in the newer, livelier part of the old city: waterfront Karakoy, a stone tower with a view and the long pedestrian street that runs to Taksim.

1. Travel from Pierre Loti HillAbout 14 min by car or transit5.0 km

   Where Day 4 ended.
2. 1
   MorningA coffee stop

   Karakoy

   A waterfront neighborhood of old banks, small galleries and cafes below the Galata hill. A good place for a slow morning and a coffee before the climb.

   Go when Morning, before the climb up the hill.

   Local tip Walk the lanes behind the waterfront, where old hardware shops sit beside new galleries.

   

3. Lunch

   Stuffed mussels

   Mussels filled with spiced rice, eaten from a street stall with a squeeze of lemon. A popular snack in Beyoglu and Karakoy.

   Local tip Eat a few at a time. The vendor will keep count, and you can stop when you like.

   

   About 4 min walk0.3 km
4. 2
   MiddayA climb for the view

   Galata Tower

   A round medieval stone tower on the hill, with a ring-shaped view over the Golden Horn and the old city. Check ahead for how you can go up.

   Go when Late morning, or near sunset (about 7:43 PM) for the best light.

   Local tip Check ahead for how you can go up. The view from the street below is also good, and costs nothing.

   

   About 11 min walk0.9 km
5. 3
   AfternoonWorth the time

   Istiklal Avenue

   The long pedestrian street of Beyoglu, lined with old apartment buildings, passages, bookshops and an old red tram. Walk it slowly and duck into the side lanes.

   Go when Afternoon, when the whole street is awake.

   Local tip The best parts are off the avenue: the old passages and the small lanes with bookshops and cafes.

   

   About 9 min walk0.8 km
6. 4
   EveningWorth a short look

   Taksim Square

   The big open square at the top of the avenue, a meeting point of the modern city. A good place to end the day and decide where to eat.

   Go when Early evening, then eat nearby.

   Local tip It is a busy transport hub. Walk through it, find your bearings and then head to dinner.

   

7. Dinner

   Doner and a tavern evening

   Doner, the sliced roast meat of Turkey, is on every corner in Beyoglu. For a longer dinner, the meyhanes off the avenue serve meze and grilled fish.

   Local tip Pick a tavern with a crowd at the tables and share the meze.

   

A day on the strait that divides two continents. A palace on the shore, a small mosque by the water and a ferry ride up and down the Bosphorus to see wooden mansions and fortresses from the water.

1. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   Dolmabahce Palace

   A grand palace on the water built for the last sultans, in a European style with crystal and gilding. Visits are usually guided, so check ahead for how and when you can enter.

   Go when Morning, when the first groups are small.

   Local tip Visits are usually guided, so check ahead for how and when you can enter. The garden on the shore is a good place to wait.

   

   About 10 min by car or transit2.4 km
2. 2
   MiddayWorth a short look

   Ortakoy Mosque

   A small, graceful mosque right at the water's edge beside the Bosphorus Bridge. The square around it is a popular place to stroll, snack and watch the boats.

   Go when Midday, with a snack by the water.

   Local tip Take a baked potato with toppings from one of the stalls and eat it looking at the bridge.

   

3. Lunch

   Kumpir, a loaded baked potato

   A huge baked potato mashed with butter and cheese and topped with whatever you pick. The street food of Ortakoy, eaten beside the water.

   Local tip Share one, since a single potato is a meal for two.

   

   About 15 min by car or transit5.6 km
4. 3
   AfternoonWorth the time

   Bosphorus ferry

   The ferry from the Eminonu quays runs up the strait past palaces, wooden mansions and old fortresses. Sit outside on the upper deck and watch both continents slide by.

   Go when Afternoon, with the light behind you.

   Local tip Take a seat on the upper deck, on the side facing the European shore on the way up. A tea from the deck steward is part of the ride.

   

5. Dinner

   Fish on the Bosphorus

   The shore has fish restaurants that serve the day's catch, grilled whole, with salads and a glass of rakı or ayran. The classic meal after a boat ride.

   Local tip Ask what the fish of the day is, and choose by the season.

   

A short ferry crossing to another continent. A grand old station, a market of food and a seaside neighborhood where Istanbul locals spend their weekends.

1. Travel from Bosphorus ferryAbout 13 min by car or transit4.3 km

   Where Day 6 ended.
2. Breakfast

   Menemen

   A pan of scrambled eggs cooked with tomato and green peppers, eaten with bread straight from the pan. A favorite breakfast in the cafes of Kadikoy.

   Local tip Ask for it with or without onions. People argue about it.

   
3. 1
   MorningWorth a short look

   Haydarpasa Terminal

   A large stone railway station on the shore, built in the German style for the old railway. It is best seen from the ferry as it comes in, and from the waterfront beside it.

   Go when Morning, as the ferry arrives.

   Local tip A good view of the station is from the water, so sit outside on the crossing.

   

   About 14 min walk1.2 km
4. 2
   MiddayWorth the time

   Kadikoy Market

   A lively market of fish, cheese, olives, pickles and sweets on the streets behind the ferry pier. This is where many Istanbul locals shop and eat.

   Go when Midday, when the stalls are busiest.

   Local tip Walk the lanes once, then pick a small place full of locals. Cheese, olives and fresh fish are the things to look for.

5. Lunch

   A market lunch in Kadikoy

   Cheese, olives, pickles, fresh fish and stuffed vegetables from the shops and stalls of the market. Graze through the lanes.

   Local tip Go hungry, share plates and try a spoonful of whatever the vendor offers.

   About 11 min walk0.9 km
6. 3
   AfternoonA seaside walk

   Moda

   A leafy seaside neighborhood a short walk from the market, with old houses, a long shore path and a view of the Princes' Islands on a clear day.

   Go when Late afternoon, around sunset (about 7:43 PM).

   Local tip Follow the shore path and sit on the old steps at the water. Locals come here for the evening air.

   

7. Dinner

   Meze in Moda

   A table of small plates by the shore, with cheese, eggplant, beans and grilled fish. A quiet end to a day on the Asian side.

   Local tip Take the ferry back at dusk and watch the lights come on over the old city.

A day away from the city by ferry, on car-free islands in the Sea of Marmara. The ride is part of the day, and so are horse carriages, wooden mansions and the sea. Check ahead for ferry times and plan to be back before dark.

1. Travel from ModaAbout 27 min by car or transit11.9 km

   Where Day 7 ended.
2. 1
   MorningWorth a short walk

   Burgazada

   The quietest of the islands in this stretch, with a small harbor, a few cafes and walking paths up to a church on the hill. A calm place for an early walk.

   Go when Morning, soon after the ferry arrives.

   Local tip Walk up the lanes behind the harbor to the church and look back at the sea. Check ahead for ferry times so you are not stuck.

   

   By ferry, about 15 min1.9 km

   Options

   FerryThe Sehir Hatlari island ferries stop at each island, roughly hourly. Check the times

3. 2
   MiddayWorth the time

   Heybeliada

   A green island with a naval school on its hill, pine woods and a long shore walk. A good place for lunch by the water.

   Go when Midday, with lunch by the harbor.

   Local tip The shore walk under the pines is the best part. Take it slowly.

   

4. Lunch

   Fish lunch on an island

   The harbors of the islands have fish restaurants and simple cafes, with grilled fish, salad and a glass of cold tea or ayran.

   Local tip Choose a table on the water and take your time. There is nowhere else to be.

   By ferry, about 15 min4.0 km

   Options

   FerryThe same island ferries, roughly hourly. Check the times

5. 3
   AfternoonWorth the time

   Buyukada

   The largest and busiest island, known for its wooden mansions, its carriages and its hill with a monastery at the top. Walk up the lanes or hire a bicycle.

   Go when Afternoon, with a horse carriage or a bicycle.

   Local tip The hilltop monastery is a steep climb. Take the carriage up or skip it and enjoy the wooden mansions by the shore.

   

6. Treat

   Ice cream by the harbor

   Turkish ice cream is thick and chewy and often served with a flourish by the vendor. Try a cone on the quay while you wait for the ferry back.

   Local tip Be ready to play along with the vendor's tricks.