Before Day 1. This is a driving trip, and Albania's roads are slower than the map suggests, so read these notes and leave time.Details
Getting here
Most flights land at Tirana, close to the city. The route runs north to south, ending near the Greek border, so the way home is long. Plan the end of the trip with that in mind.
Getting around
A car or a driver is the easiest way to run the route. Roads can be narrow, steep and slow, and a mountain or coast road may take longer than the distance suggests. Check ahead on road conditions and give each drive extra time.
The sea
Beaches on the Riviera are often pebble, and the water can be deep close to shore. Swim where others do and check ahead on conditions. Take sun protection, since there is little shade on some stretches.
First evening
Day 1 starts in Tirana. Land, settle in and walk to the main square, so the first evening is a slow one.
How much walking? On foot, about 0.5 to 1.0 kilometers a day, and 398.6 kilometers by car in all across 6 days. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.
Day 1. Tirana
3 stops · 1.0 km on foot
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
1
MiddayIndoor
Et'hem Bey Mosque
A small, gentle mosque on the square, with painted walls inside and a slender minaret. It stayed closed through the communist decades and reopened in 1991. Dress modestly and check ahead on visiting.
Go whenMidday, as a pause between the sights.
Local tip Dress modestly and take off your shoes if you go in. Check ahead on visiting, since it is closed at prayer times and on some days.
A concrete pyramid built in the late communist years as a museum for the country's dictator, later reused for other things. A stark landmark that says a lot about the city's recent past. Check ahead on whether you can climb it.
Go whenAfternoon, when the concrete is warm and the light is low.
Local tip Walk around it to see its shape from each side. If you climb, wear shoes with grip, because the surface is hard and can be slippery in rain.
Lamb baked under a golden crust of yogurt and eggs, the national dish of Albania. Rich, warming and slow to eat.
Local tip Ask whether it is the real version, baked in the oven, since some places rush it.
About 6 min walk0.5 km
3
EveningBest early
Blloku
The quarter that was once closed to ordinary people, home to the country's communist leaders, and now the most relaxed part of town, with cafes, bars and tree-lined streets. A good place for the evening walk.
Go whenEvening, when the terraces fill.
Local tip Sit outside, order a coffee and watch the city go by. The streets are lively late, so go early if you want a quiet table.
Small grilled meatballs called qofte, with a salad of tomato, cucumber and onion, bread and a yogurt sauce.
Local tip Order a plate to share and a salad on the side.
If it rains. Et'hem Bey Mosque is covered, so keep it. Move Pyramid of Tirana and Blloku to a dry day if you can.
Day 2. Krujë and Mount Dajti and Tirana
2 stops · 4.3 km by car
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
1
Morning
Skanderbeg Square
The main square of Tirana, wide and open, with a statue of the national hero Skanderbeg on horseback. Ministries, a clock tower and the museum ring the edges, and the city's story is easiest to read from here.
Go whenMorning, when the square is quiet and the light is soft.
Local tip Walk the whole square and look at the buildings on each side. The ground is open and exposed, so bring a hat on a hot day.
A vast Cold War bunker built into a hillside for the country's leaders, now a museum of the surveillance and fear of those years. Dark, cool and sobering, and a good stop on the road back to the city.
Go whenMidday, as a cool break from the sun.
Local tip It is dark and underground, with a heavy subject, so take it at your own pace. Check ahead on opening, and bring a light layer because it is cool inside.
Sweet peppers stuffed with rice and herbs, served warm with bread. A simple home dish found all over the country.
Local tip It is often meatless, which makes it a good light lunch.
Dinner
Fërgesë
A baked dish of peppers, tomatoes and cheese, with a soft egg, served in a clay pot and scooped with bread.
Local tip Use the bread as a spoon, and share it as a starter.
If it rains. Bunk'Art 1 is covered, so keep it. Move Skanderbeg Square to a dry day if you can.
Day 3. Krujë and Mount Dajti
2 stops · 36.3 km by car
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
Travel from Bunk'Art 1About 33 min by car or transit18.3 km
Where Day 2 ended.
1
Morning
Fortress of Krujë
The hill stronghold where Skanderbeg held off armies in the fifteenth century, with a museum to his story inside the walls and an old bazaar of crafts and carpets below. Take the road north early.
Go whenMorning, before the day groups and the heat.
Local tip The old bazaar below the walls sells carpets and crafts, so you can browse as you climb. Check ahead on the museum, which has its own opening times.
The mountain just east of Tirana, reached by a long cable car from the edge of town. Cooler up top, with pine woods, paths and a wide view over the capital and the plain beyond. Check ahead on the cable car and the weather.
Why it is hereA cable car takes you up to a mountain with wide views of the capital.
Go whenAfternoon, for the cooler air and the view.
Local tip The cable car does not run in all weather, so check ahead. Up top the air is cooler than in the city, so bring a layer even on a hot day.
If it rains. Everything today is outdoors, so swap this day with a drier one if you can.
Day 4. Butrint and the far south
4 stops · 224.6 km by carAbout 3 h 44 min driving
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
Drive from Mount DajtiAbout 2 h 20 min by car161.8 km
Where Day 3 ended.
1
Midday
Blue Eye
A deep spring in the hills behind Sarandë whose water looks blue, with woods around it.
Go whenMorning, when the light shows the color.
Local tip A deep spring whose water looks blue. Follow the local signs on where to stand or swim, since the water is very cold and the edges can be slippery.
An ancient city on a green headland by a lagoon, layered with Greek, Roman and Byzantine remains. A theater, a baptistery and a castle stand among the trees. A shady, quiet site that rewards a slow walk.
Go whenMidday, in the shade of the trees.
Local tip The paths run through woods and can be damp and uneven. Bring water and a hat, and take your time, because there is a lot to see in layers.
Mussels from the lagoon near Butrint, cooked with garlic and white wine, with fresh bread.
Local tip If the day is hot, order a cold salad as well.
About 10 min by car or transit2.9 km
3
Afternoon
Ksamil
A beach village near the Greek border, with small islands just offshore and clear water. Busy in summer, quieter in late spring and early autumn. Swim where others do and check ahead on conditions.
Go whenAfternoon, then stay for the evening light.
Local tip It is busy in high summer, so go in early summer or early autumn if you can. Swim where others do, and watch the sun on the water.
Layers of pastry, nuts and syrup, with a small coffee, to finish the trip on something sweet.
Local tip It is very sweet, so share a piece.
If it rains. Everything today is outdoors, so swap this day with a drier one if you can.
Day 5. The Albanian Riviera
4 stops · 54.3 km by car
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
Drive from GjirokastërAbout 41 min by car29.1 km
Where Day 4 ended.
1
Morning
Porto Palermo Castle
An Ottoman fortress on a small peninsula, shaped like a triangle and reached by a short causeway. Small, photogenic and quiet early in the day. Check ahead on visiting.
Go whenMorning, when it is quiet and the water is calm.
Local tip A small site, so a short visit is enough. The causeway is narrow and the wind can be strong, so hold your hat.
A hillside village above a long bay on the Riviera, with stone houses, an old church and a pebble beach below. Go for the setting and the swim, and leave the main road for the lanes.
Go whenMidday, for a swim and a slow lunch.
Local tip The village sits well above the beach, so walk or drive down the lane. The water can be deep close to shore, so swim with care.
Fish from the coast, grilled whole and served with lemon, a salad of tomatoes and olive oil.
Local tip Ask what was caught that day, and pay attention to the size of the portion.
About 10 min by car or transit2.8 km
3
Afternoon
Canyon of Gjipe
A narrow bay at the end of a canyon, with a wild beach that you reach on foot. The path is rough, so take water and sun protection, and check ahead on conditions before you go.
Go whenAfternoon, with time to walk in and back.
Local tip The last stretch is a rough path, and there is no shade at the beach. Take water, sun protection and shoes you can walk in, and check ahead on access.
About 16 min by car or transit6.1 km
4
Evening
Himarë
A coastal town with an old hill quarter and a long beach, and a Greek minority with its own traditions. A good base for the night, with the old castle above the modern strip.
Go whenEvening, with a walk up to the old quarter.
Local tip The old quarter sits on the hill above the beach, with a view over the bay. It is a short, steep climb, so take it slowly in the heat.
Grilled or boiled octopus, dressed with local olive oil and lemon, with bread to mop up the oil.
Local tip The olive oil of the coast is worth tasting on its own with bread.
If it rains. Everything today is outdoors, so swap this day with a drier one if you can.
Day 6. Berat and the Albanian Riviera
3 stops · 0.5 km on foot, 79.1 km by car
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
Travel from HimarëAbout 31 min by car or transit15.1 km
Where Day 5 ended.
1
Morning
Llogara Pass
The high pass between the Vlorë plain and the coast, where the road climbs through pine forest to a viewpoint over the sea far below. Start early, since the road is winding and narrow in places.
Go whenMorning, to cross before the afternoon traffic.
Local tip The road is winding and has drops at the edge, so drive slowly and pull over at the viewpoint. Check ahead on conditions, especially after rain.
A fortress above the town that is still lived in, with churches, small streets and houses inside its walls. The views run over the river and the pale houses below. Wear shoes for steep, polished stone.
Go whenAfternoon, when the stone is warm and the light is gold.
Local tip The stones are steep and polished, so wear shoes with good grip. People still live inside the walls, so be quiet and keep to the paths.
Bread, cheese, tomatoes and fruit from a roadside stall, eaten at a lay-by on the way south.
Local tip Buy the fruit from a stall you can see the fruit at, and wash it before eating.
About 6 min walk0.5 km
3
Evening
Mangalem
The Ottoman quarter at the foot of the castle, where white houses with rows of windows climb the slope above the river. A neighborhood to wander slowly, ideally at dusk, when the windows light up.
Go whenEvening, when the windows begin to glow.
Local tip The lanes slope steeply, so wear shoes with grip. Cross the old bridge to the other bank for the view back across the river.
Dinner
Lamb with rice
Slow-cooked lamb with rice and a tomato sauce, a family dish of the region.
Local tip Ask for the local red wine from the Berat hills.
If it rains. Everything today is outdoors, so swap this day with a drier one if you can.
Departure day
After the last day. The trip ends in the far south, so the way out is long, and worth planning ahead.Details
The way back
Tirana airport is a long drive from the south, so allow most of a day, and take an evening flight rather than a morning one. Check ahead on road works and on ferries to the nearby Greek island, if you plan to leave that way.
Border note
If you cross into Greece by road or sea, check ahead on passport and vehicle rules, which differ for rental cars. Rental companies often have their own rules on crossing.
Last buys
Olive oil, honey, herbal tea and woven rugs are the usual souvenirs. Buy from a market stall or a small shop, and check what your country allows you to bring home.
Questions people ask
How many days does this plan cover?
It covers 6 days in Tirana, planned for early June. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.
Who is this plan for?
It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.
Is anything on this plan booked?
No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.
Can I plan my own days like this?
Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.
Can I change this plan?
Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.
How much walking is there?
On foot, about 0.5 to 1.0 kilometers a day, and 398.6 kilometers by car in all across 6 days. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.