6 days on the Croatian coast: Dubrovnik, Split and Hvar

The stone city on the water. The main street, the old rector's palace, a walk on top of the walls and a fortress on a rock outside the gate.

1. Breakfast

   Burek and strong coffee

   A warm flaky pastry filled with cheese or meat, bought from a bakery, with a short strong coffee. A quick local start.

   Local tip Bakeries sell out by mid morning, so go early.
2. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   Stradun

   The polished limestone main street of the old town, running between the two gates and lined with stone houses and small side lanes. Come early, before the day visitors arrive.

   Go when Morning, before the day groups arrive.

   Local tip The stone is polished smooth and slick, especially when wet. Duck into a side lane when it gets crowded, since the quiet streets are a few steps away.

   

   About 3 min walk0.3 km
3. 2
   MiddayWorth the time

   Rector's Palace

   A Gothic and Renaissance palace that was once the seat of the rulers of the old republic of Ragusa, with a courtyard and a museum. A cool and quiet stop at the hottest hour.

   Go when Midday, when the stone courtyard is cool.

   Local tip A small museum in an old palace, so allow an hour or less. Check ahead on opening, which can change by season.

   

4. Lunch

   Black risotto and a salad

   Black risotto, dark with cuttlefish ink, with a plate of local greens. A coastal classic and a cool lunch in the shade.

   Local tip Black risotto stains the teeth, so order it with a smile.

   About 3 min walk0.2 km
5. 3
   AfternoonWorth the time, go late

   Walls of Dubrovnik

   Stone walls that run all the way round the old town, with towers and views over red roofs and the sea. The walk is exposed and the steps are steep, so go late in the day, bring water and check ahead on timed entry.

   Go when Late afternoon, when the heat eases and the light turns gold (about 8:26 PM).

   Local tip There is almost no shade on the walk, so bring water and a hat. Tickets are often timed in summer, so check ahead.

   

   About 4 min walk0.3 km
6. 4
   EveningWorth a short stop

   Lovrijenac

   A fortress on a sheer rock just outside the western gate, with thick walls and a view back to the old town. Check ahead on entry, and take care on the steps, which are worn and steep.

   Go when Early evening, with the light on the walls (about 8:26 PM).

   Local tip The steps are steep and worn. Take it slowly, and check ahead on entry, since the fortress sometimes hosts events.

   

7. Dinner

   Grilled fish by the sea

   Fresh fish grilled whole, with olive oil, garlic and blitva (chard with potatoes), at a table near the water.

   Local tip Fish is sold by weight, so ask before you order.

   

A day above and around the city. The summit over the old town, a short boat ride to a green island of gardens and ruins, a monastery with an old pharmacy, then a breakwater at dusk.

1. Breakfast

   Figs, cheese and bread

   Fresh figs when in season, soft sheep cheese and crusty bread, a simple Dalmatian breakfast.

   Local tip Buy fruit from a market stall for the best flavor.
2. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   Srđ

   The hill above Dubrovnik, with a wide view over the old town, the islands and the coast. A cable car climbs it, but check ahead on whether it is running, and walk down if you are fit. A museum in the fort tells of the siege of the city in 1991.

   Go when Morning, when the air is clear and the light is soft.

   Local tip The cable car may be closed in strong wind, and the road up is steep. Check ahead, bring a layer for the breeze and go down on foot only if you are used to steep paths.

   

   About 24 min walk1.9 km
3. 2
   MiddayA half day away

   Lokrum

   A wooded island a short boat ride from the old port, with a botanical garden, the ruins of a monastery and peacocks that wander free. A good escape from the heat, and the boats run seasonally, so check ahead.

   Go when Midday, to escape the heat of the town.

   Local tip The last boat back leaves early, so check the timetable before you cross. Bring water, because there is little to buy, and take care on the rocks if you swim.

   

4. Lunch

   A picnic of cheese and olives

   Local cheese, olives, tomatoes and bread, packed for the island. There is little to buy there.

   Local tip Take your rubbish back with you.

   About 15 min walk1.2 km
5. 3
   AfternoonWorth a short stop

   Franciscan Friary

   A friary with a cloister and one of the oldest pharmacies in Europe, in use from the early fourteenth century. A quiet place inside the walls, small and worth a short visit.

   Go when Afternoon, when the town is hot.

   Local tip The cloister is calm and cool, and the old pharmacy is small. Check ahead on opening, which depends on the season.

   

   About 6 min walk0.4 km
6. 4
   EveningAn evening stop

   Porporela

   A stone breakwater at the old port, where locals fish, swim and watch the sun go down. A simple, free place to end the day.

   Go when Early evening, as the sun goes down (about 8:26 PM).

   Local tip Locals swim off the steps and fish from the end. The stone is slippery when wet, so watch your step.

7. Dinner

   A seafood platter

   A platter of grilled squid, prawns and small fish, shared at a table in the old town.

   Local tip Ask whether the squid is fresh that day, since it is sometimes frozen.

A day on the old coast road. The long walls of Ston, a village known for its oyster beds, the river gorge at Omiš and the waterfront of Split as the day closes.

1. Drive from PorporelaAbout 50 min by car40.5 km

   Where Day 2 ended.
2. Breakfast

   Coffee and a pastry on the road

   A strong coffee and a pastry from a bakery, before the drive north along the coast.

   Local tip Fill the water bottle before you leave the old town.
3. 1
   MorningA steep walk, go early

   Walls of Ston

   Defensive walls that climb the hill behind the village of Ston, with a view over the salt pans and the sea. The climb is steep and the stone slick, so go early and check ahead on which sections are open.

   Go when Morning, before the heat.

   Local tip The path climbs steeply in the sun. Take water and good shoes, and turn back at any point. Check ahead on which sections are open.

   

   About 17 min walk1.4 km
4. 2
   MiddayWorth the time

   Mali Ston

   A small stone village at the end of the walls, known for oysters and mussels farmed in the bay. A good place to eat, and to sit by the water for a while.

   Go when Midday, for a long lunch by the water.

   Local tip Oysters and mussels are the draw, and they are best from the colder months through spring. Ask what is fresh and eat early, since kitchens close in the afternoon.

   

5. Lunch

   Oysters and mussels

   Oysters from the bay, raw with lemon, and mussels cooked in white wine, eaten at a table by the water.

   Local tip Oysters are at their best in the cooler months, so ask what is fresh.

   About 1 h 38 min by car105.5 km
6. 3
   AfternoonWorth a short stop

   Omiš

   A small town at the mouth of a river that cuts through a steep gorge. The cliffs rise right behind the old stone houses, and a fortress sits above, so it makes a dramatic stop on the way to Split.

   Go when Afternoon, with the light on the gorge.

   Local tip Park near the old center and walk. The cliffs are best seen from the riverside, and the fortress path is steep, so go only if you have the time and the shoes.

   

   About 35 min by car or transit21.3 km
7. 4
   EveningWorth the time

   Riva, Split

   The wide palm-lined waterfront promenade beside the old palace walls, the living room of the city. Walk it at dusk with everyone else.

   Go when Evening, when the whole town walks the promenade (about 8:26 PM).

   Local tip Sit on a bench rather than in a cafe if you just want to watch. The palace walls glow in the evening light.

   

8. Dinner

   Pasta and fish in Split

   A plate of fresh pasta with seafood, then fish grilled over a wood fire, in a lane inside the palace walls.

   Local tip Walk a few lanes away from the Riva for quieter tables.

A Roman emperor's palace that became a town. Streets inside old walls, a cathedral that began as a tomb, a forested hill with a view and a sandy beach where locals play ball games in the shallows.

1. Breakfast

   Fritule and coffee

   Small fried dough balls dusted with sugar, sometimes with raisins, with a coffee at a street stall.

   Local tip Fritule are often sold in colder months and at fairs.
2. 1
   MorningWorth the time, go early

   Diocletian's Palace

   A late Roman palace built for an emperor, whose walls and halls have become the center of Split, with homes, shops and lanes inside. Wander its streets and cellars early, before the heat and the crowds.

   Go when Morning, before the heat and the crowds.

   Local tip It is not a museum but a living quarter, so be quiet in the lanes. Walk down into the cellars, which are cool even on a hot day.

   

   About 2 min walkunder 0.1 km
3. 2
   MiddayWorth the time

   Cathedral of Saint Domnius

   A cathedral built as the emperor's own mausoleum, with a bell tower that is open to climb. Check ahead on opening, and take care on the steep tower stairs.

   Go when Midday, when the tower is quiet.

   Local tip The tower stairs are steep and open to the air, so climb only if you are steady. Check ahead on opening.

   

4. Lunch

   A market lunch

   Fruit, cheese and cured ham from the stalls at the market, eaten in the shade by the old walls.

   Local tip Markets are busiest in the morning, so go before noon.

   About 10 min by car or transit2.6 km
5. 3
   AfternoonA good walk

   Marjan

   A wooded hill park on the western edge of the city, with trails, small chapels and a view over the old town and the islands. A shady break from the heat, and a good walk for late afternoon.

   Go when Late afternoon, with the light on the old town.

   Local tip Wear comfortable shoes, because the paths are rough in places. The view from the top covers the city, the islands and the sea.

   

   About 11 min by car or transit3.1 km
6. 4
   EveningAn evening stop

   Bačvice

   A sandy city beach, where locals play a ball game in the shallows. A cheerful place for an evening swim and a drink at the edge of town.

   Go when Evening, when the shallows fill with players (about 8:26 PM).

   Local tip The local game is picigin, played with a small ball in the shallow water. Watch from the edge, and mind the ball.

7. Dinner

   Peka and a glass of local wine

   Lamb or veal slow-cooked under an iron bell with potatoes, a dish of the Dalmatian hills, with a glass of local red.

   Local tip Peka must be ordered in advance, often hours ahead, so ask early.

A short sea crossing to the sunniest island. A small stone square and a cathedral, a fortress above the harbor, boat trips to pine-covered islets and a harbor that glows at dusk.

1. Drive from BačviceAbout 47 min by car36.7 km

   Where Day 4 ended.
2. Breakfast

   Coffee on the quay

   A coffee and a pastry on the harbor before the boat to the island.

   Local tip Boats can be full, so be at the quay early.
3. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   Hvar Cathedral

   A cathedral on the main square of Hvar Town, beside the stone harbor, in a town of Venetian houses and narrow lanes. Arrive by morning boat and begin here, when the square is quiet.

   Go when Morning, before the harbor wakes up.

   Local tip The stone square is the heart of the town and is quiet early. Check ahead on opening for the cathedral.

   

   About 4 min walk0.3 km
4. 2
   MiddayWorth the time

   Fortica

   A fortress high above Hvar Town, with a steep path up and a wide view of the harbor and the islands beyond. Go before the heat, bring water and check ahead on opening.

   Go when Morning, before the sun is high.

   Local tip The climb is steep and open to the sun. Bring water, wear good shoes and check ahead on opening.

5. Lunch

   Fresh seafood on the harbor

   A plate of fresh seafood or a simple pasta, eaten on the quay under a sunshade.

   Local tip The harbor tables are for visitors, so walk a street back for the places locals use.

   About 11 min by car or transit3.1 km
6. 3
   AfternoonA half day by boat

   Pakleni Islands

   A chain of pine-covered islets just off Hvar Town, with rocky coves and clear water. Small boats cross from the harbor, so check ahead, and take care when swimming, since boats move fast here.

   Go when Afternoon, when the water is warm.

   Local tip Boats cross from the harbor, but sailings depend on the weather, so check ahead. Take water, shoes for the rocks and mind the boats if you swim.

   

   About 10 min by car or transit2.9 km
7. 4
   EveningAn evening stop

   Hvar Town

   A harbor town of stone houses around a quay, where fishing boats and yachts tie up. Walk the waterfront at dusk, when the stone glows and the cafes fill.

   Go when Early evening, as the light turns (about 8:26 PM).

   Local tip The waterfront is busy and loud in summer. For a quieter dinner, walk a few lanes back from the quay.

   

8. Dinner

   Gregada, a fisherman's stew

   A traditional Hvar fish stew with potatoes and white wine, slow-cooked and rich. A classic of the island.

   Local tip Ask if the stew is made fresh that day.

A quiet last day. A farmland plain laid out by Greek settlers and still worked, a poet's fortified house in the old town of Stari Grad, then the afternoon ferry back to Split.

1. Travel from Hvar TownAbout 31 min by car or transit16.0 km

   Where Day 5 ended.
2. Breakfast

   Honey, bread and tea

   Island lavender honey on fresh bread, with tea, before a quiet morning on the plain.

   Local tip Honey is a local specialty, so buy a jar from a stall to take home.
3. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   Stari Grad Plain

   A flat plain of stone walls, olive groves and vineyards, laid out by Greek settlers more than two thousand years ago and still farmed. Walk or cycle a short stretch between the walls.

   Go when Morning, when the plain is cool and quiet.

   Local tip The paths between the walls are flat and shaded in patches. It is farmland, so keep to the tracks and leave gates as you find them.

   

   About 12 min by car or transit3.5 km
4. 2
   MiddayWorth a short stop

   Tvrdalj Castle

   The fortified house of a sixteenth century poet in the old town of Stari Grad, built around a courtyard with a fishpond and walls carved with verse. Quiet and unusual, and a good place for a rest from the sun.

   Go when Midday, as a rest from the sun.

   Local tip The courtyard is peaceful, with a pond and carved verses on the walls. Check ahead on opening.

   

5. Lunch

   Olives, cheese and local wine

   A light lunch of local olives, soft cheese and a glass of the island's white wine in the shade.

   Local tip Eat before the ferry, because the boat has little to offer.

   About 12 min walk0.9 km
6. 3
   AfternoonAn easy stop

   Stari Grad

   A small, quiet town at the end of a long, narrow bay, founded by Greek settlers. Walk the old harbor, then catch the ferry back to Split for the flight or the night.

   Go when Afternoon, before the ferry.

   Local tip Walk the harbor and a few lanes of the old quarter. Keep an eye on the clock, because the boat will not wait.