Five days in the green mountains of the Sierra Gorda, based in Jalpan. Follow the five Franciscan missions of the 1700s through the villages, spend a day at the river cascades of Concá, and finish on the high pine road above the clouds.
5 daysAbout 0.8 km on foot a dayMarch18 places
Copy this plan to your own trips, then change anything you like.
HappeningWarming and dry, with clear days in the valleys and good light on the carved mission fronts. Holy Week sometimes begins at the end of the month, with processions in the villages (dates vary).
From average weather, 2021 to 2025: days that are warm but not hot, with few rainy days, score highest. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
This plan works for 2 to 6 days
Tap a number and the same city is rearranged to fit, with the must-sees kept.
Before Day 1. Jalpan is your base for all five nights, and every other day is a road trip out into the mountains and back.Details
The long road in
Most visitors fly into Querétaro or Mexico City, or come through San Luis Potosí, and then spend several hours on mountain road. Long distance buses reach Jalpan from the larger cities, so check current routes ahead. A rental car or a hired driver makes the days that follow far easier.
Winding roads
The roads into and around the Sierra Gorda climb through sharp bends, with fog on the ridges and landslides after heavy rain. Reach Jalpan in daylight, drive slowly, and avoid driving at night. Ask at your lodging about the road each morning.
Thin phone signal
Signal comes and goes in the valleys and on the high road. Download offline maps before you leave a city, note the next address before you drive on, and carry water, a snack and some cash for the villages.
Settling in
Day 1 starts at the Jalpan mission, so settle in and take an easy walk around the plaza first. The town sits lower than the ridges, so it is warmer than the pine villages above.
How much walking? On foot, about 0.1 to 1.9 kilometers a day, and 133.0 kilometers by car in all across 5 days. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.
Day 1. Jalpan, the mission town
4 stops · 0.1 km on foot, 2.3 km by car
Jalpan on foot, the base for the week. The mission church where Fray Junípero Serra worked, the plaza in front of it, a museum on the Sierra Gorda and the quiet lake at the edge of town. Everything is a gentle walk or a short ride.
If you only have half a dayMisión de Santiago de Jalpan, then Jalpan Main Plaza. The mission church with its carved front, then the plaza at its door.
Breakfast
Eggs, beans and café de olla
Eggs cooked your way, refried beans, warm tortillas and a clay mug of coffee brewed with cinnamon and brown sugar, a plain start to a day in the warm valley.
Local tip Ask for the salsas on the side and add them a little at a time.
1
Morning
Misión de Santiago de Jalpan
The first of the five missions, finished in the mid 1700s while Fray Junípero Serra lived in the town, long before his work in California. Its stone front is carved with saints and symbols in a local style. It is still a church, so stay quiet during services.
Go whenMorning, when the light falls on the carved front.
Local tip Stand on the plaza and look at the whole front before you go in. It is a working church, so cover your shoulders and stay quiet during services. Check ahead on when visitors can go in.
About 2 min walkunder 0.1 km
2
Midday
Jalpan Main Plaza
The shaded garden square beside the mission, where the town sits at the end of the day. Benches, trees and shade, and the carved front of the church across the way.
Go whenLate afternoon, when the town comes out (about 6:47 PM).
Local tip Take a bench and watch the evening fill the square. The sun is strong in the middle of the day, so keep a hat and a bottle of water.
Lunch
Gorditas of corn dough
Thick corn cakes split open and filled with a stew, beans or cheese, a snack of the Querétaro hills eaten standing or on a plaza bench.
Local tip Try one with a stew and one with beans, and ask what is cooked that day.
About 2 min walkunder 0.1 km
3
AfternoonIndoor
Museo Histórico de la Sierra Gorda
A museum of the history of the Sierra Gorda, in a building beside the mission, on the Pame and other peoples of the mountains, the arrival of the missionaries and the life of the region. Check ahead on the opening.
Go whenMidday, as an indoor stop.
Local tip Go through the rooms before you visit the other missions, so the carved fronts make more sense. Check ahead on the opening.
Dinner
Enchiladas queretanas
Tortillas dipped in a red chili sauce, fried and filled with cheese, then topped with potato, carrot and a little lettuce, a supper of this region.
Local tip Ask whether the sauce is mild, and eat them while they are hot.
About 9 min by car or transit2.3 km
4
Evening
Presa de Jalpan
A dam on the river just south of the town that makes a long, quiet lake among the green hills. Walk or sit along its edge as the day cools. Keep to the paths and take care near the water.
Go whenLate afternoon, as the day cools (about 6:47 PM).
Local tip Keep to the paths and take care at the water edge. Levels change with the rains, so check ahead before you go close.
If it rains. In heavy rain keep to the mission and the museum, and shelter in a cafe on the plaza with a coffee. Leave the dam path for a clear hour, since it turns muddy and slick.
Day 2. The missions of Landa and Tilaco
4 stops · 0.2 km on foot, 29.7 km by car
A day by road to two mission villages east of Jalpan. Landa has the mission at the heart of a small town and a community museum, and Tilaco, further on, has a mission church and a quiet plaza. The roads wind, so allow time.
If you only have half a dayMisión de Santa María del Agua de Landa, then Misión de San Francisco del Valle de Tilaco. Two carved mission fronts in two mountain villages.
Travel from Presa de JalpanAbout 31 min by car or transit16.1 km
Where Day 1 ended.
Breakfast
Tamales and atole
Soft corn tamales in their wrappers with a cup of atole, a thick warm corn drink, bought from a stall before the road east.
Local tip Unwrap the leaf and eat only the dough inside.
The mission church of Landa de Matamoros, built in the mid 1700s with a richly carved front of stone, set in the middle of the town. A working church, so stay quiet during services.
Go whenMorning, before the road gets warm.
Local tip Look at the carving on the front from the street first, then step inside. A working church, so stay quiet during services. Allow time for the winding road from Jalpan.
About 2 min walkunder 0.1 km
2
MiddayIndoor
Landa Community Museum
A small community museum in Landa on farming and the traditional life of the Sierra Gorda. A short, quiet stop beside the mission. Check ahead on the opening.
Go whenMidday, as an indoor stop.
Local tip A small museum on the daily life of the Sierra Gorda. Check ahead on the opening, since small community museums keep their own hours.
Chicken in a dark sauce of chilies, seeds and spice, served with rice and warm tortillas, a festival dish that many village kitchens cook.
Local tip Ask whether the sauce is sweet or spicy, and take a little at first.
About 30 min by car or transit13.6 km
3
Afternoon
Misión de San Francisco del Valle de Tilaco
The mission of the village of Tilaco, in a high valley further along the road. The front is carved with Franciscan symbols, and the small village around it is quiet, with few visitors.
Go whenAfternoon, once the village is quiet.
Local tip The village is small and few people visit, so be a gentle guest and ask before any photograph. Check ahead on whether the church is open.
About 2 min walkunder 0.1 km
4
Evening
Plaza del Padre Miracle
The small village plaza of Tilaco, a few steps from the mission, with benches and shade. A calm place to rest before the long drive back to Jalpan.
Go whenLate afternoon, before the drive back (about 6:47 PM).
Local tip Sit on a bench and rest before the winding road. Fill your water bottle and tell someone where you are going, since the signal is thin.
Dinner
Chicken broth with rice
A warm bowl of chicken broth with rice, avocado and tortillas, a light supper after a long road day.
Local tip Squeeze lime over it and add chili slowly.
If it rains. Rain makes the mountain road slow and can bring landslides. Check the road before you set out, keep the day to the churches and the small museum, and turn back early if the road looks bad.
Day 3. Tancoyol, the far north mission
3 stops · 0.1 km on foot, 29.9 km by car
A long day by road to the mission of Tancoyol, the most remote of the five, in a small village in the hills to the north. A carved church, a museum on the Pame people and the village square. Leave early and allow for slow roads.
If you only have half a dayMisión de Nuestra Señora de la Luz de Tancoyol, then Pame Community Museum. The remote mission church, then a small museum a few steps away.
Drive from Plaza del Padre MiracleAbout 42 min by car29.9 km
Where Day 2 ended.
Breakfast
Sweet bread and coffee
A sweet roll from a village bakery with a cup of coffee, to carry in hand on the road north.
Local tip Buy a second roll and some water for the car, since stops are few.
1
Morning
Misión de Nuestra Señora de la Luz de Tancoyol
The mission of Tancoyol, in a quiet village among the hills, with a richly carved front. It is the farthest of the five from Jalpan, so the drive is half the day. Still a church, so stay quiet during services.
Go whenMorning, so the long drive back is in daylight.
Local tip The road is long and winds through the hills, so leave early and plan to be back well before dark. Check the road after rain. A working church, so stay quiet during services.
About 2 min walk0.1 km
2
MiddayIndoor
Pame Community Museum
A small community museum in Tancoyol about the Pame people, who have lived in the Sierra Gorda for a very long time. Check ahead on the opening, and read the signs with care.
Go whenMidday, as an indoor stop.
Local tip A small museum about the Pame people of the Sierra Gorda. Read the signs with care and treat their culture with respect. Check ahead on the opening.
Lunch
Beans, cheese and handmade tortillas
Beans, melted cheese and tortillas made by hand on a griddle, a simple village meal of the hills.
Local tip Ask for fresh tortillas, still warm from the griddle.
About 2 min walkunder 0.1 km
3
Afternoon
Tancoyol Village Square
The village park of Tancoyol, a quiet place to sit with a cold drink after the road. Walk a lane or two, say hello, and ask before you photograph anyone.
Go whenEarly afternoon, before the road back.
Local tip A quiet square, good for a cold drink and a rest. Ask before photographing people, and bring cash and snacks, since the village is small.
Dinner
Quesadillas and hot chocolate
Folded corn tortillas filled with cheese or squash flowers, with a mug of hot chocolate, a warm meal when you are back in Jalpan.
Local tip Ask what fillings are fresh that day, and eat them hot.
If it rains. The road to Tancoyol is the longest of the trip, so skip it if heavy rain is forecast. If you go, keep to the mission and the museum, and leave early so the way back is in daylight.
Day 4. Concá, the mission and the cascades
3 stops · 1.6 km on foot, 32.2 km by car
A day by road to Concá, in the north west of the region, for the fifth mission and the river cascades below the village. The road is long and winds. Water levels change, so check ahead on the river before you plan any swim.
If you only have half a dayMisión de San Miguel Concá, then First Cascade at Concá. The mission church of the village, then the river falls just below it.
Drive from Tancoyol Village SquareAbout 43 min by car32.2 km
Where Day 3 ended.
Breakfast
Chilaquiles with salsa
Crisp tortilla pieces simmered in green or red salsa and topped with cream and onion, a filling start before the long drive to the river.
Local tip Ask for the sauce mild, and take a bottle of water for the day.
1
Morning
Misión de San Miguel Concá
The mission of Concá, dedicated to Saint Michael, with a richly carved front set in a river village of green fields and warm air. The last of the five on the trail. Still a church, so stay quiet during services.
Go whenMorning, before the river heat builds.
Local tip Look at the front from the street, then step in quietly. The road to Concá is long and winding, so leave early and check conditions after rain. A working church, so stay quiet during services.
A warm fish soup with vegetables and lime, in the style of the river and lake villages of the region.
Local tip Ask if the fish is fresh, and pick out the bones with care.
About 13 min walk1.1 km
2
Midday
First Cascade at Concá
A cascade on the river below the village, with pools and rock. The flow is high after rain and thin in the dry months, and the rocks are slick, so keep to the paths and ask locals about the water that day.
Go whenLate morning, when the light reaches the pools.
Local tip River levels change fast with rain upstream, and the rocks are slick. Keep to the paths, ask locals about the water that day, and do not swim unless they say it is safe. Check ahead on access.
About 7 min walk0.5 km
3
Afternoon
Second Cascade at Concá
The second fall mapped near the village, a short way downstream from the first, with more pools. Check ahead on access and on river levels, and do not swim unless local people tell you the water is safe that day.
Go whenEarly afternoon, while the path is dry.
Local tip The path is rough and the rock is slippery. Wear shoes with grip, take water and leave if clouds build upstream. Check ahead on access and on river levels.
Dinner
Tacos of grilled meat
Grilled beef or pork in small tortillas with onion, coriander and a choice of salsas, eaten at a street stall.
Local tip Choose a stall with a busy line, and start with the mild salsa.
If it rains. Rain upstream can raise the river fast and make the rocks very slick, so keep away from the cascades and the water. The mission and the village lanes are the dry plan. Check conditions ahead before you drive.
Day 5. The pine ridge above the clouds
4 stops · 1.9 km on foot, 38.9 km by car
A high mountain day on the ridge road to Pinal de Amoles, a pine village in the cool, then two viewpoints over the valleys. Fog is common up here and the road winds. Take a warm layer and keep to daylight.
If you only have half a dayPinal de Amoles Main Plaza, then Mirador de Cuatro Palos. The pine village in the cool, then the lookout on the ridge road.
Drive from Second Cascade at ConcáAbout 44 min by car33.2 km
Where Day 4 ended.
Breakfast
Eggs with nopales
Scrambled eggs with strips of nopal cactus, onion and tomato, served with beans and tortillas, a warm start for a cool day in the pines.
Local tip Take a warm layer, since the air up high is cold in the morning.
1
Morning
Pinal de Amoles Main Plaza
The plaza of Pinal de Amoles, a town high in the pines, cool even when the valley is warm. Benches and trees in the cool air. A good place for a hot drink before the viewpoints.
Go whenMorning, with a hot drink in the cool air.
Local tip The town is high and the air is cool and often misty, so pack a warm layer. The road up winds, so allow plenty of time.
About 4 min walk0.3 km
2
Morning
Parroquia de San José Pinal de Amoles
The parish church of Pinal de Amoles, a short walk from the plaza. A working church, so stay quiet during services and look at the front before you go in.
Go whenLate morning, a short walk from the plaza.
Local tip A working church, so stay quiet during services and cover your shoulders. Look at the front before you go in.
Lunch
Grilled cheese and nopal salad
Cheese grilled on a hot griddle with a salad of cactus pads, tomato and onion, a light meal of the cool mountain towns.
Local tip Add a squeeze of lime and a little salsa.
About 19 min walk1.5 km
3
Midday
Mirador Puerta del Cielo
A roadside lookout on the ridge road south of Pinal de Amoles, with a long view over the green folds of the mountains. Clouds often fill the valley. Pull off only where it is safe.
Go whenLate morning, if the cloud has lifted.
Local tip A roadside lookout on a winding road, so pull off only where it is safe and watch for traffic. Cloud can hide the view, so never plan on one.
About 16 min by car or transit5.8 km
4
Afternoon
Mirador de Cuatro Palos
A lookout high on the ridge road, over valleys that fall away into the haze. At this height fog and cloud are likely and can hide the view, so go on a clear morning if you can. Park well off the road.
Go whenMorning or early afternoon, before cloud builds.
Local tip Fog is likely at this height and can close the view in minutes. Keep back from the edge, park well off the road, and leave early enough to be off the ridge road before dark.
Dinner
Pork in green sauce
Pork simmered in a green sauce of tomatillo and chili, served with rice and beans, a warm supper after a day on the high road.
Local tip Ask for it mild and eat it hot, with tortillas.
If it rains. Fog and rain are common on the high road. Skip the viewpoints in fog and keep to the town, the church and a hot drink. Never drive the ridge road in poor visibility or after dark.
Departure day
After the last day. The mountain road back to Querétaro or San Luis Potosí takes hours, so plan the last morning around it.Details
Leaving the mountains
Book your driver or arrange the car return the day before, and set off early. The road winds and slows in fog and rain, and a night on the road is best avoided. Leave real slack if you have a flight to catch.
Carrying things home
Local coffee, dried fruit and handwork from the villages travel well when wrapped. Check what your airline and your home country allow before you pack food or plants.
If you have an hour
Sit once more on the plaza in Jalpan, or walk to the edge of the lake behind the dam, and look back at the carved front of the mission in the morning light.
Questions people ask
When is the best time to visit Jalpan de Serra?
By average weather from 2021 to 2025, January to February and October to December are the most comfortable months for walking around Jalpan de Serra. This plan is built for march, which is a good month. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
How many days does this plan cover?
It covers 5 days in Jalpan de Serra, planned for march. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.
Who is this plan for?
It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.
Is anything on this plan booked?
No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.
Can I plan my own days like this?
Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.
Can I change this plan?
Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.
How much walking is there?
On foot, about 0.1 to 1.9 kilometers a day, and 133.0 kilometers by car in all across 5 days. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.