3 days of aqueducts and a giant rock in Querétaro

Querétaro's old centre, on foot. The main square and the house tied to a famous act of the independence story, a former convent of San Francisco, a leafy garden at the heart of the city and a handsome theatre. Everything is a short walk.

1. Breakfast

   Sweet bread and coffee

   A warm roll or sweet bread with a cup of coffee or hot chocolate, in a cafe under the arcades of the plaza.

   Local tip Ask for what the baker made that morning.
2. 1
   MorningBest early

   Plaza de Armas

   The calm main square of the old city, a paved space ringed by arcaded houses of the 18th century, with a stone fountain at its centre. Sit under the arcades with a hot drink and watch the town begin its day.

   Go when Early morning, before the plaza fills.

   Local tip Take a seat under the arcades and watch the plaza wake. The old centre is made for walking, so leave the car at the hotel.

   About 2 min walkunder 0.1 km
3. 2
   Morning

   Casa de la Corregidora

   The old government house on the plaza, tied to the story of Mexican independence. The wife of the town magistrate, Josefa Ortiz de Domínguez, is remembered here for helping to warn the conspirators of 1810. It is still a working government building, so check ahead on which parts you can see.

   Go when Morning, while the courtyards are open.

   Local tip Look at the front and the stairs, and read the plaques about 1810. It is a working government building, so check ahead on what you can enter.

4. Lunch

   Enchiladas queretanas

   A regional dish of tortillas dipped in a red chilli sauce and fried, topped with potato, carrot, cheese and onion. A plain, filling plate found all over the old city.

   Local tip Ask for the sauce on the side, and add a little at a time.

   About 2 min walk0.2 km
5. 3
   Midday

   Templo de San Francisco and the Regional Museum

   A baroque church and a former Franciscan convent beside the Jardín Zenea. The museum inside holds a cloister, rooms of regional history and colonial art. A cool indoor stop for the middle of the day. Check ahead on the opening.

   Go when Midday, as an indoor rest from the sun.

   Local tip Walk around the cloister and look at the vaults above it. Check ahead on the museum opening before you plan the hour.

   About 2 min walk0.1 km
6. 4
   Afternoon

   Jardín Zenea

   A shaded garden at the heart of the old city with a bandstand and iron benches, ringed by pedestrian lanes and old arcades. Sit for a while, and watch people walk through at their own pace.

   Go when Afternoon, in the shade.

   Local tip This is where the city meets. Sit on a bench, and look for a seller of a cold snack or fruit cup.

   About 2 min walk0.2 km
7. 5
   Evening

   Teatro de la República

   A 19th century theatre near the garden, where the Constitutional Congress of 1916 and 1917 met. Look at the front and the lobby, and check ahead on a performance or a visit.

   Go when Evening, when the front is lit.

   Local tip Look at the lobby and the front, and check ahead on a performance or a visit. The 1917 Constitution was approved in this city.

   

8. Dinner

   Tacos by the plaza

   A late supper of tacos, a quesadilla or a bowl of soup, eaten at a table on a lane near the garden.

   Local tip Order a few and share, and finish with a hot drink.

A day trip east to the small town of Bernal, set below the Peña de Bernal, a giant rock that rises over its roofs. Wander the cobbled lanes, then walk to the foot of the rock, and on the way back stop in the wine and cheese town of Tequisquiapan.

1. Drive from Teatro de la RepúblicaAbout 56 min by car49.7 km

   Where Day 1 ended.
2. Breakfast

   Eggs and tortillas before the road

   Eggs, beans and tortillas with strong coffee, to fuel the day on the road.

   Local tip Carry water, since there is little shade on the walk.
3. 1
   Morning

   Bernal Town Square

   The small main plaza of Bernal, a town of cobbled lanes, low coloured houses and a church, with a market of woven things, sweets and snacks. A stroll of an hour or so, and the rock is in view from almost every corner.

   Go when Morning, before the heat and the day trippers.

   Local tip Walk the cobbled lanes and look up, since the rock follows you. Buy woven things and sweets from the stalls, and ask the makers about them.

   About 8 min walk0.6 km
4. 2
   Midday

   Peña de Bernal

   A great rock that rises about 350 metres over the town, one of the tallest of its kind in the world. A path leads to its foot, and the view of the cliff from there is the point. The climb on the rock itself is for people with proper equipment and a guide only, and rules can change, so check ahead on what is allowed.

   Go when Midday on a clear day, with a hat.

   Local tip The path to the foot is a good walk with a hat and water, since there is little shade. Climbing the rock is for people with proper equipment and a guide only. Check ahead on what is allowed.

   

5. Lunch

   Gorditas in Bernal

   Small, thick corn cakes, split and filled with beans, cheese or a stew, a street dish of Bernal and the region, eaten warm from the griddle.

   Local tip Choose a stall where the cakes are made in front of you.

   About 38 min by car25.4 km
6. 3
   Afternoon

   Tequisquiapan Main Plaza

   The main plaza of Tequisquiapan, a small town of wine, cheese and craft markets, with a church, shaded benches and a long arcade. A slow place to rest on the drive back, and to wander the lanes around it.

   Go when Late afternoon, as the shade returns.

   Local tip Sit under the trees and walk the lanes around the plaza. The town is known for wine and cheese, so ask about the local ones.

   About 2 min walk0.2 km
7. 4
   EveningIndoor

   Tequisquiapan Craft Market

   A craft market of woven baskets and wickerwork, leather, ceramics and embroidery, made in the region. Look, ask about the work and buy from the makers when you can.

   Go when Afternoon, as the stalls fill.

   Local tip Look at the woven wicker and leather, and ask the makers how a piece was made. Carry cash in small notes, since not every stall takes cards.

   

8. Dinner

   Cheese, bread and a glass of local wine

   Tequisquiapan is a town of cheese and wine, and a plate of local cheeses with bread makes a light supper.

   Local tip Ask what is made nearby, and ask for a taste before you buy.

The rest of the city. A baroque church south of the plazas, the long line of stone arches of the aqueduct with a lookout beside it, and the hill where an emperor's story ended. Mostly a short ride between stops, and a walk at each.

1. Drive from Tequisquiapan Craft MarketAbout 59 min by car53.2 km

   Where Day 2 ended.
2. Breakfast

   Fresh fruit and a sweet roll

   A plate of fresh fruit, a roll and coffee before the walk to the church.

   Local tip Save room for a snack later.
3. 1
   MorningIndoor

   Templo de Santa Rosa de Viterbo

   A baroque church of the 18th century south of the plazas, known for its tall tower and the curved flying buttresses on its flanks, which give it a look unlike other Mexican churches. It is a working church, so stay quiet during services.

   Go when Morning, when the stone is in soft light.

   Local tip Look at the tower from the lane before you go in, and at the curved supports on the sides. It is a working church, so cover your shoulders and stay quiet.

   About 19 min walk1.5 km
4. 2
   Midday

   Cerro de las Campanas

   The hill west of the old centre where the story of the short reign of the Emperor Maximilian ended in 1867. A small memorial chapel stands on it, with a view back over the city, and a statue of the president Benito Juárez stands nearby. Walk the paths and read the signs.

   Go when Midday, with a hat and water.

   Local tip Walk to the chapel and look back over the city. The hill is exposed to the sun, so carry water and wear a hat.

   

5. Lunch

   A set lunch in the old centre

   A set meal of soup, a plate of rice and a main dish of the day, with a water of fruit, as local workers eat it.

   Local tip Ask what the cook made that morning.

   About 12 min by car or transit3.7 km
6. 3
   Afternoon

   Aqueduct of Querétaro

   A long line of tall stone arches that carried water to the town from a spring, built in the 18th century. Walk along the avenue beside it and look up at the arches from underneath.

   Go when Late afternoon into evening (about 6:51 PM).

   Local tip Walk the avenue beside the arches instead of only photographing them. Keep your valuables out of sight and leave before it is very late.

   

   About 9 min walk0.7 km
7. 4
   Evening

   Mirador de los Arcos

   A lookout beside the aqueduct, where the arches frame the city as the sun goes down. A good place to end the trip with a slow walk and a last look at the stone.

   Go when Evening, near sunset (about 6:51 PM).

   Local tip Come for the light on the stone as the day ends. Keep an eye on your bag, and plan the ride back before dark.

8. Dinner

   Tamales and hot chocolate

   A light supper of tamales, steamed corn dough with a filling, with atole or hot chocolate, a cool evening comfort.

   Local tip Unwrap the husk, and eat only the soft dough inside.