4 days in Lerwick for Up Helly Aa

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   Broch of Clickimin

   A prehistoric stone tower on a small island in a loch on the western edge of town, reached by a causeway. A windy, quiet walk before the town fills. Wet stone and ice make the causeway slippery, and it may be closed in winter, so check ahead.

   Go when Morning, before the town fills for the festival.

   Local tip The causeway is wet and can be icy, so go slowly and wear boots with a grip. The tower walls are old and fragile, so keep off them. It may be closed in winter, so check ahead.

   

   About 16 min walk0.8 mi
2. 2
   MiddayCheck ahead

   Commercial Street

   The old stone main street of Lerwick, a narrow lane of shops along the harbor below the fort, with small lanes running up the hill. On the festival day the Jarl's Squad in Viking dress usually tours the town center in the morning. The crowds are friendly and the streets may be cordoned off, so check ahead for the plan.

   Go when Late morning, for the squads in the town center.

   Local tip Costumed squads tour the town on the day, and it is their tradition, so give them room and ask before photographing anyone. Streets may be cordoned off, and the plan can change.

3. Lunch

   Reestit mutton soup

   Reestit mutton is mutton salted and dried for the winter, a Shetland tradition, simmered with potato and turnip into a thick, warming soup. A good bowl on a windy day.

   Local tip It is salty, so taste before you add anything. Tell the staff if you avoid lamb or have a food allergy.

   About 2 min walkunder 0.1 mi
4. 3
   AfternoonA quiet stroll

   Lerwick harbor front

   The quays and piers along the water, with fishing boats, working ferries and a low winter sun. A short walk shows how the town faces the sea. Keep to the paths, because wet stone and wind make the edges slippery.

   Go when Afternoon, as the light turns gold and low.

   Local tip Walk a stretch of the quays and turn back when you are cold. Keep away from the edge on wet stone, and stay clear of working boats and cranes.

   About 2 min walk0.1 mi
5. 4
   AfternoonWorth a short stop

   Lerwick Tolbooth

   The old tolbooth by the harbor, a stone building of the 1700s that once held the town's court and prison. Look at it from the street on a harbor walk.

   Go when Afternoon, as part of a harbor walk.

   Local tip Look at the stonework and the doorway from the street. It is a quick look, and you do not need to go in.

   

6. Dinner

   A fish supper

   A piece of fresh haddock or other whitefish landed in the islands, fried and served with chips, a classic of Scottish ports. Take it to the harbor front or eat in a warm cafe.

   Local tip Fish is often fresh, so ask what came in that day. Tell the staff about any fish or gluten allergy first.

   

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   Shetland Museum

   The museum and archives on the old dock, telling Shetland's story from the Stone Age and the Vikings to fishing, knitting and the sea. A calm first stop, and a good way to learn what the fire festival grew out of. Opening days change in winter, so check ahead.

   Go when Morning, as the first stop on a short winter day.

   Local tip Look for the boat hall and the Viking objects first, because they explain the costumes you will see on Tuesday. Opening days change in winter, so check ahead.

   

   About 20 min walk1.0 mi
2. 2
   MorningCheck ahead

   Bod of Gremista

   A restored fishing booth north of Lerwick, once the birthplace of a famous Shetland merchant, now a small museum. It is seasonal and may be closed in winter, so check ahead.

   Go when Morning, on a dry day, by taxi or a long walk.

   Local tip This small fishing booth may be closed in winter, so check ahead before you go. The road is busy and the walk is long, so plan a ride back.

   

3. Lunch

   Shetland mussels

   Mussels grown on ropes in the clean sea inlets of the islands, steamed in a pot with garlic, cream or just their own juice, and eaten with bread. A seafood lunch in the small cafes of the town.

   Local tip They are shellfish, so tell the staff about any allergy first. Throw away any that do not open.

   About 24 min walk1.2 mi
4. 3
   MiddayWorth a short stop

   Fort Charlotte

   A squat stone fort on the shore above the harbor, built to guard the sound, with thick walls and a view across the water to Bressay. The wind on the ramparts is strong in January, and it may be closed in winter, so check ahead.

   Go when Midday, in the best of the winter light.

   Local tip Walk the ramparts and look across the sound to Bressay. Hold your hat, keep back from the edge in a gale, and check ahead because it may be closed in winter.

   About 2 min walkunder 0.1 mi
5. 4
   EveningArrive early

   Lerwick Town Hall

   A grand stone town hall of the 1800s on the hill above the harbor, known for its stained glass. On the Hillhead outside it the torches are lit in the evening, usually about half past seven, and the procession sets off. Watch from the street along the route, arrive early and expect barriers. The burning site is closed to the public.

   Go when Early evening, well before the torches are lit.

   Local tip Find a place along the route behind the barriers before the crowd thickens. Keep back from the torches, which throw sparks, and remember you cannot enter the burning site. Dress warmly for a long stand.

   

6. Dinner

   A warm early supper

   Lerwick cafes and pubs serve stews, lamb dishes and pies that are filling and quick. Eat early on the festival day, before the streets fill, so you are warm and fed before the procession.

   Local tip Book early or eat before the crowds arrive, because places fill. Tell the staff about any allergy first.

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. Travel from Lerwick Town HallAbout 19 min by car or transit4.6 mi

   Where Day 2 ended.
2. 1
   MiddayWorth a short stop

   Scalloway Museum

   A small museum in the village that tells the story of Scalloway, from the castle and the fishing to a wartime role in the islands. It may be closed in winter, so check ahead.

   Go when Midday, as a warm indoor stop.

   Local tip The museum tells the story of the village, including its wartime role. It may be closed in winter, so check ahead.

   

   About 25 min by car or transit6.6 mi
3. 2
   AfternoonWeather decides

   Bressay

   The island across the sound from Lerwick, reached by a short ferry. It is quiet, hilly and open to the wind, with sheep, and a long view back to the town. Ferries can be delayed or cancelled by wind in January, so check ahead and keep a plan B in town.

   Go when Afternoon, if the wind allows the ferry.

   Local tip Check the ferry before you go and again before you return, because wind can stop it. Roads are narrow with no pavement, so walk facing traffic and keep to the verge.

   

4. Dinner

   Shetland lamb stew

   Shetland lamb is raised on open hill grazing, and a stew of lamb, carrot and potato is a warm supper for a cold evening. Pubs and cafes in town serve a version of it.

   Local tip Check ahead for what is open on the holiday. Tell the staff if you avoid lamb or have an allergy.

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. Travel from BressayAbout 25 min by car or transit6.6 mi

   Where Day 3 ended.
2. 1
   MorningWorth a short stop

   Scalloway Castle

   A tall, roofless tower house on the shore at Scalloway, built by an unpopular earl in the early 1600s as the seat of power in Shetland. Most people see it from outside, and the inside may be closed in winter, so check ahead.

   Go when Morning, with the light on the water behind it.

   Local tip The castle is best seen from the grass and the shore. The inside may be closed in winter, so check ahead. The tower is old, so stay off the walls.

   

   About 5 min walk0.2 mi
3. 2
   MiddayWorth the time

   Scalloway

   The old capital of Shetland, a fishing village on a sheltered bay, with a working harbor, a small museum and a view back to the castle. Walk the quay and watch the boats. Shops and cafes may be shut on the holiday, so check ahead.

   Go when Midday, with the boats in the harbor.

   Local tip Walk the quay and look back at the castle. Many places may be shut on the day after the festival, so carry a drink and a snack.

   

4. Lunch

   Fresh fish at Scalloway

   Scalloway has one of the island's fishing ports, so the haddock, whitefish or salmon on the plate was likely landed nearby. A simple plate beside the harbor, if a place is open.

   Local tip Places may be shut on the holiday, so check ahead. Tell the staff about any fish allergy first.