Nine days for two: four unhurried days on foot in Edinburgh, with the castle, the hills and a long dinner on the Shore, then five days by car north and west through Stirling, Loch Lomond, Glencoe, Skye and Loch Ness to Inverness. Slow mornings, one special evening and a lot of castles and lochs.
9 daysCouplesLate May32 places
Copy this plan to your own trips, then change anything you like.
From average weather, 2021 to 2025: days that are warm but not hot, with few rainy days, score highest. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
This plan works for 2 to 9 days
Tap a number and the same city is rearranged to fit, with the must-sees kept.
Before Day 1. Edinburgh is a walking city, so keep the car for the Highland days.Details
From the airport
Edinburgh Airport is linked to the city center by tram and by bus, and taxis wait outside. Pick whichever is simplest after your flight and leave the first evening free.
Where to stay
Choose a base in the Old Town or the New Town. Both are walkable, and the castle, the Royal Mile and the gardens are a short stroll from either. You will not need a car in the city.
The car
Collect a rental car on the morning of Day 5, not before. Drive on the left. Many Highland roads are single track with passing places, so pull in to let others by. Book the car and your rooms well ahead.
Weather and light
Late May can be bright and mild or wet and cold within one day, so carry layers and a waterproof. The evenings are long and light, which suits a slow day. Midges, the tiny biting flies, appear in still, damp air near the water. Day 1 starts at Edinburgh Castle.
Day 1. The castle and the Royal Mile
4 stops · 1.1 mi
The Old Town on foot, from the castle on its rock down to the palace. A slow day with time to stop, and a long street to wander at the end of it.
1
MorningWorth the time
Edinburgh Castle
The castle stands on a volcanic rock above the city, with the royal apartments and the Honours of Scotland, the crown jewels, inside. Book a time ahead and arrive early.
Go whenMorning, with a time booked ahead, before the crowds arrive.
Local tip Walk the full circuit of the walls for the views before you go into the rooms. The view over the New Town is as good as anything inside.
The High Kirk of Edinburgh, with a crown-shaped spire, tall stained glass and the carved Thistle Chapel. A quiet interior in the middle of the busy street.
Go whenLate morning, once the castle is done.
Local tip Find the Thistle Chapel, a small, richly carved room tucked into a corner. Look up at the roof, which is carved like lace.
The long street that runs downhill from the castle to the palace, lined with tall old houses and narrow alleys called closes. Duck into a few and see what is at the end.
Go whenAfternoon, then again in the evening when the street is calmer.
Local tip Turn off the main street into the closes and wynds. The best views and the quietest corners are down the alleys.
The royal residence in Scotland, at the foot of the Royal Mile, with the ruins of an abbey beside it. Check ahead, because the rooms close when the royal family is in residence.
Go whenAfternoon, then walk into the park.
Local tip Step out to the ruined abbey next to the palace. It is a short wander and a quiet place to sit.
If it rains. Keep the castle, the cathedral and the palace, which are indoors. Walk the Royal Mile between showers and duck into a close or a café when it pours.
Day 2. Hills, gardens and a view
4 stops · 2.4 mi
A day of open air. An extinct volcano in the morning, a monument and a garden in the middle, and a small hill for the evening light.
1
MorningWorth the time
Arthur's Seat
An extinct volcano in the park beside the palace. The walk to the top is short but steep in places, and the view covers the city, the coast and the hills.
Go whenMorning, on a clear day, with good shoes.
Local tip Take the long way up for a gentler climb, or stop at the first crag for much the same view. Take layers, because the top is windy.
An old graveyard with a view of the castle and the story of a loyal little dog, whose statue stands at the gate. A quiet stop between two busy streets.
Go whenMidday, before lunch.
Local tip Walk in quietly, and be mindful that this is a graveyard. Look for the view of the castle from the far wall.
The old harbor of Leith, lined with restaurants and bars in former warehouses and with the water beside it. A fine place for the special dinner of the trip.
Go whenEarly evening (about 9:18 PM), with a table booked ahead.
Local tip Walk the quay first, then sit down for a long dinner. Ask for a table by the window or outside if the evening is mild.
A tall stone tower on a crag, built to honor the hero William Wallace. A spiral stair leads to a view over the valley, so go only if you are comfortable with it.
Go whenMidday, if the weather is clear.
Local tip The stair is steep and tight. If you would rather not climb, the view from the car park is a fair one.
Lamb from the Highland hills, roasted or slow-cooked, with potatoes and local vegetables. A hearty dinner by the loch.
Local tip Ask the server to recommend the lamb of the day.
If it rains. The castle is partly covered, but the walls and the loch are best in the dry. If it rains, spend longer in Stirling and shorten the lochside walk.
Day 6. Glencoe and Glenfinnan
4 stops · 92.2 mi
A day of empty moor, a dramatic glen and a famous railway viaduct. The road is the point, so take it slowly and stop at the viewpoints.
Drive from Luss on Loch LomondAbout 1 h 5 min by car38.3 mi
Where Day 5 ended.
1
MorningWorth a short stop
Rannoch Moor
A huge, empty moor of heather, bog and small lochs beside the road. It is a quiet, wild landscape, and a good place to stop and look back.
Go whenMorning, on the way to the glen.
Local tip Stop at a safe lay-by and listen. The silence is the thing. Do not wander far from the road, because the ground is soft.
About 37 min by car or transit15.0 mi
2
MorningWorth the time
Glen Coe
A steep-sided glen of high mountains and waterfalls, with a sad history told in the visitor center. Stop at the roadside viewpoints and check the weather before you walk.
Go whenMorning, before the traffic builds.
Local tip Use the viewpoints beside the road, and check the weather before you set out on a walk. The mountains can change character quickly.
A curved stone railway viaduct crossing a green glen, known from films. On some days in season a steam train crosses it, so check ahead for the schedule.
Go whenAfternoon, and check ahead if you hope to see a steam train.
Local tip Take the marked path up to the viewpoint, and keep behind the barriers. The path is short, but it can be muddy.
A tower at the head of Loch Shiel that marks where Bonnie Prince Charlie raised his banner in 1745. The view down the loch is lovely in the evening light.
Go whenEvening (about 9:18 PM), when the loch is calm.
Local tip Look down the loch from the foot of the tower. The light on the water is lovely late in the day.
A pub in the glen will serve pies, stews and fish, with a fire in the grate on a cool evening. Simple food after a long day.
Local tip Book a table ahead if it is the busy season.
If it rains. Heavy cloud hides the glen. Take the road slowly and stop at the visitor center. The viaduct is still worth seeing in a shower.
Day 7. Eilean Donan and Skye
3 stops · 157.7 mi
West to the sea. A small castle on an island, then over the bridge to Skye, with a castle by the sea loch and the harbor town of Portree for the night.
Drive from Glenfinnan MonumentAbout 1 h 23 min by car77.7 mi
Where Day 6 ended.
1
MorningWorth the time
Eilean Donan Castle
A small castle on an island where three sea lochs meet, joined to the land by a stone bridge. One of the most photographed castles in the country, so go early.
Go whenEarly morning, before the tour coaches.
Local tip Walk across the bridge for the interior, but take your first photographs from the road, where the whole island is in the frame.
Restaurants around the harbor serve local seafood, lamb and beef. Walk the quay and pick a place with a view of the boats.
Local tip Book ahead, because the town is small and busy in the season.
If it rains. The castles have rooms to shelter in. Drive carefully on single-track roads, which can be slow in rain.
Day 8. The Isle of Skye
3 stops · 47.7 mi
A day of wild scenery. A rock pinnacle, a string of pools under the mountains and a lighthouse at the far edge. Check the weather and road conditions ahead, and go gently.
Travel from PortreeAbout 25 min by car or transit6.6 mi
Where Day 7 ended.
1
MorningA hike with a view
The Old Man of Storr
A tall rock pinnacle on a ridge above the sea. The path is steep and can be muddy, so check the weather and wear proper shoes.
Go whenEarly morning, on a clear day. Check the weather ahead.
Local tip The path is steep and can be slippery. Go only if the weather is settled, and turn back if the cloud comes down.
A string of clear blue pools and small waterfalls beneath the Black Cuillin mountains. The path crosses streams that can run high after rain, so check conditions ahead.
Go whenMid afternoon, if the weather is settled and the water is low.
Local tip Wear boots, because the path crosses streams that rise after rain. Check parking and conditions ahead.
A lighthouse at the western tip of the island, reached by a steep path down a grassy headland. A place for the last light of the day, if the weather allows.
Go whenEvening, around sunset (about 9:18 PM), if the weather is clear.
Local tip The path down is steep and the climb back is tiring. Take a layer, because the wind at the point can be strong.
A pub or inn on the island will serve soup, pies and stews, and the portions are generous. Simple food after a long walk.
Local tip Check ahead for a late table, because some kitchens close early on the island.
If it rains. Skye weather changes fast, and the hikes are best in settled weather. Check the forecast the night before. If it is wet, visit the castle and the harbor town instead.
Day 9. Loch Ness and Inverness
4 stops · 130.1 miAbout 3 h 2 min driving
The way east along the great glen, past the loch and a ruined castle, to Inverness. End the trip with a quiet evening by the river.
Drive from Neist PointAbout 1 h 57 min by car81.0 mi
Where Day 8 ended.
1
MorningWorth a short stop
Fort Augustus
A small village at the south end of Loch Ness, where the Caledonian Canal climbs through a flight of locks. Walk to the water and watch the boats.
Go whenMorning, with a coffee beside the locks.
Local tip Watch a boat work through the locks, then walk along the water’s edge. You are at the foot of Loch Ness.
A table by the river for the last night of the trip. Order something Scottish, and finish with cranachan, a dessert of raspberries, oats and cream.
Local tip Book ahead and walk along the river before you sit down.
If it rains. The castles and the battlefield centre have places to shelter. A wet day is a fine one for a long, slow drive and a late lunch.
Departure day
After the last day. The trip ends in Inverness, so settle the way home the night before.Details
From Inverness
Inverness has its own small airport and a railway station, so you can fly or take a train onward. Check the connections for your trip the evening before.
Returning the car
If you hand the car back in Inverness, check the return desk and fuel the tank first. A rental you leave in another city may need to be arranged ahead.
A last slow morning
Walk the river path through Inverness with a coffee, then go. Pack damp coats and muddy boots in a separate bag so the rest of the luggage stays dry.
Questions people ask
When is the best time to visit Edinburgh?
By average weather from 2021 to 2025, June to September are the most comfortable months for walking around Edinburgh. This plan is built for late May, which is a good month. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
How many days does this plan cover?
It covers 9 days in Edinburgh, planned for late May. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.
Who is this plan for?
It was planned for couples. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.
Is anything on this plan booked?
No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.
Can I plan my own days like this?
Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.
Can I change this plan?
Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.
How much walking is there?
Each day has about 1.1 to 80.0 miles between its stops, and 273.2 miles in all across 9 days. A short hop is a walk and a longer one a ride. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.