HappeningOften drier, with warm days and sometimes a norte. Candlemas, on 2 February, is kept with food and church services across Mexico. Carnival falls in February or March, before Lent (dates vary).
From average weather, 2021 to 2025: days that are warm but not hot, with few rainy days, score highest. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
Arrival day
Before Day 1. Villahermosa is hot and humid all year, so a room with air conditioning and a short ride to the river side of town makes the first day easier.Details
Flying in
Many visitors from abroad connect through Mexico City or another large Mexican airport and land at the Villahermosa airport, on the edge of the city. The ride into the centre is short by taxi or booked car. Use the airport taxi desk or a booked ride, and agree the fare before you set off.
Heat, rain and insects
Tabasco is hot and humid in every month, and very wet from about June to November. February to April is the drier stretch, but still warm, so carry water, a hat and repellent, and plan to rest at midday. Roads and fields can flood after heavy rain, so check the forecast before each long day.
Before you go
Check your government's current travel advice and local notices, especially for the road into Chiapas on Day 5. Ask your host or driver about conditions the day before, and keep long drives to daylight.
Day 1 starts nearby
Day 1 starts at the Olmec stone heads in the jungle park, so settle in, drink plenty of water and take an easy walk along the river in the evening before an early night.
How much walking? On foot, about 0.1 to 2.9 kilometers a day, and 423.6 kilometers by car in all across 6 days. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.
Day 1. The old centre and the river and The Olmec park and the museums
3 stops · 2.3 km on foot
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
1
Morning
Plaza de Armas
The main square of the old centre, a shaded space beside the state government palace, where the city meets for fiestas and for a coffee. Sit on a bench and watch the morning before the heat arrives.
Go whenMorning, in the shade, before the heat.
Local tip Take a bench and watch the city start its day. The square is lively on feast days, so ask your host what is on.
About 12 min walk1.0 km
2
MiddayIndoor
Museo Regional de Antropología Carlos Pellicer Cámara
A museum of the peoples of Tabasco, with objects from the Olmec and the Maya, near the river. It is a cool, indoor stop for the hottest hours. Take your time in a few rooms rather than all of them, and check ahead on the opening.
Go whenMidday, as a cool stop out of the sun.
Local tip Choose a few rooms and look closely rather than rushing all of them. The Olmec and Maya rooms give useful context for the stone heads. Check ahead on the opening.
Lunch
Pejelagarto asado
A fish of the state, grilled whole over fire and served with tortillas, salsa and lime. A dish of rivers and lagoons that you will find in small riverside eating places.
Local tip Ask the cook to remove the bones, and eat it hot.
About 17 min walk1.4 km
3
Evening
Malecón Carlos A. Madrazo
The promenade along the Grijalva river, where families walk, cyclists pass and the water catches the last light. Come when the heat eases{sunset}, and keep to the lit stretches after dark.
Go whenEvening (about 6:13 PM), when the heat eases and the promenade fills.
Local tip Walk a stretch of the river and watch the families and the boats. Stay on the lit, busy parts after dark and keep your bag in front.
Dinner
Seafood and a cold maize drink
Fish or shrimp, grilled or in a cold tostada with lime, and a glass of pozol, a chilled drink of maize and cacao that locals take in the heat.
Local tip Try pozol in a small glass first, since it is thick and filling.
If it rains. Museo Regional de Antropología Carlos Pellicer Cámara is covered, so keep it. Move Plaza de Armas and Malecón Carlos A. Madrazo to a dry day if you can.
Day 2. The old centre and the river
2 stops · 1.0 km on foot
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
1
MiddayIndoor
Casa de los Azulejos
A house faced in blue and white tiles, a short walk from the square, now the museum of the history of Tabasco. A cool stop in the middle of the day. Check ahead on the opening.
Go whenMidday, as a cool indoor stop.
Local tip Look at the tiled front from the street before you go in. Rooms show the history of the state, so pick a few and take your time, and check ahead on the opening.
About 13 min walk1.0 km
2
AfternoonIndoor
Catedral del Señor de Tabasco
The cathedral of the city, named for the Lord of Tabasco, the Christ honoured by the state. It is a working church, so keep your voice low, cover your shoulders and respect any service.
Go whenAfternoon, outside the hours of services.
Local tip It is a working church, so stay quiet, cover your shoulders and do not photograph during a service. The air inside is a welcome rest from the heat.
A slow stew of beef or chicken with plantain, squash, cabbage and sweet potato, served with rice. A dish for family tables, heavy for the heat, so share a bowl.
Local tip Add a little lime and ask for the broth first.
If it rains. Everything today is indoors, so rain does not change the plan.
Day 3. The Olmec park and the museums
2 stops · 1.0 km on foot
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
1
Morning
Parque-Museo La Venta
An open air museum in a patch of jungle in the city, where colossal stone heads, altars and carved blocks made by the Olmec long ago stand along shaded paths. They were moved here from the original site of La Venta, to the west. Walk slowly, since the heat and the insects are real.
Go whenMorning, as early as you can, before the heat.
Local tip Walk the shaded paths slowly and read the signs beside each stone. Wear repellent and light clothes, carry water, and check ahead on the opening.
About 13 min walk1.0 km
2
Afternoon
Laguna de las Ilusiones
A lagoon at the northern edge of the city, one of the many bodies of water that give the state its character, with neighbourhoods on its shores. A calm place to watch the light fade. Keep an eye on your bag and ask locally how to reach the shore.
Go whenLate afternoon (about 6:13 PM), when the heat eases.
Local tip Sit by the water and let the day cool. Keep an eye on your bag, ask locally about the best way to the shore, and take repellent for the evening.
Dinner
Tamales of chipilín
Steamed maize dough with a green herb called chipilín, wrapped in a leaf, a snack of the south that fills you without being heavy.
Local tip Open the leaf and eat it with a spoon of salsa.
If it rains. Everything today is outdoors, so swap this day with a drier one if you can.
Day 4. Palenque and its waterfall
4 stops · 0.1 km on foot, 133.7 km by car
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
Drive from Laguna de las IlusionesAbout 1 h 42 min by car110.3 km
Where Day 3 ended.
1
MorningBest early
Temple of the Inscriptions
A stepped pyramid with a royal tomb inside it, found there in the twentieth century. The temple stands above the forest on its terrace, and the inner stair is usually closed, so check ahead. Go in the first hours, while the air is cooler.
Go whenMorning, as soon as the site opens.
Local tip The jungle is hot and humid by midday, so be there early. Bring water and repellent, and check ahead on whether the inner stair can be visited, which it usually cannot.
A complex of courtyards, galleries and rooms with a tall tower, at the middle of the city. Walk the shaded galleries and look at the carved stucco and stone. Stay on the marked paths, and bring water and repellent.
Go whenMidday, in the shade of the galleries.
Local tip Look at the carved stucco and stone, and climb the tower only where it is open. Stay on the marked paths and watch the steps, which are steep and uneven.
Lunch
Fruit and corn at the gate
Slices of fruit with lime and chile, grilled corn and a cold drink from the stalls near the entrance, a quick rest before the road.
Local tip Fruit with lime and chile is a local way to cool down.
About 27 min by car or transit11.5 km
3
Afternoon
Misol-Ha
A waterfall on a river in the rainforest south of the ruins, falling into a wide pool, with a path that in some conditions leads behind the falling water. After rain it runs brown and the stones are slick, so check ahead and watch your step. Leave the road back for daylight.
Go whenAfternoon, if the day is dry and the light allows.
Local tip Take care on the wet stones and watch the current. Check ahead on the path behind the water and on swimming. The water runs brown after rain, so do not count on the colour.
The site museum, at the lower edge of the ruins, named for the archaeologist who opened the tomb. It shows objects found at Palenque, in the cool indoors. Check ahead on the opening.
Go whenAfternoon, as a cool rest after the ruins.
Local tip Read the labels for the objects found at the site, and take your time in the cool rooms. Check ahead on the opening.
Dinner
A late supper on the way back
Grilled chicken or fish with rice, beans and tortillas, at a table beside the road or in Villahermosa after the long day.
Local tip Order a cold drink and eat early, since the day began before dawn.
If it rains. Museo de Sitio Alberto Ruz Lhuillier is covered, so keep it. Move Temple of the Inscriptions, Palace of Palenque and Misol-Ha to a dry day if you can.
Day 5. The Centla wetlands and Frontera and East of Villahermosa
4 stops · 0.8 km on foot, 225.0 km by carAbout 3 h 46 min driving
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
Drive from Museo de Sitio Alberto Ruz LhuillierAbout 1 h 47 min by car117.2 km
Where Day 4 ended.
1
MorningBest early
Pantanos de Centla
A biosphere reserve where the Grijalva and the Usumacinta rivers spread into marsh, lagoons, floodplain forest and mangrove, one of the wetlands that most shape the state. Go with a local guide and a boat, and never expect to see any animal, since they come and go. Check ahead on access.
Go whenEarly morning, when the air is cooler.
Local tip Go by boat with a local guide who knows the channels, wear the life jacket you are given, and carry water, a hat and repellent. Never expect to see any particular animal. Check ahead on access and the state of the water.
A nature reserve east of Villahermosa, with areas of jungle, savanna and wetland and paths to walk. It needs a taxi or a booked car and a half day.
Go whenMorning, when it is cooler.
Local tip A nature reserve east of the city, with areas of jungle, savanna and wetland. Go by taxi or booked car, wear a hat and repellent, and check ahead on the opening and on what is offered.
About 1 h 4 min by car60.2 km
3
MiddayIndoor
Museo de la Navegación
A small museum in the river port of Frontera about boats and travel by river and sea. A cool, short indoor stop out of the sun. Check ahead on the opening, since a small museum keeps its own hours.
Go whenMidday, as a cool stop.
Local tip A small museum about the river and the sea. A short visit. Check ahead on the opening, since a small museum keeps its own hours.
About 10 min walk0.8 km
4
Afternoon
Frontera
A river port near where the Grijalva meets the Gulf of Mexico, with a waterfront for a slow walk and boats at work. Keep to the busy streets, drink plenty of water and leave the road back to Villahermosa for daylight.
Go whenAfternoon, then head back while it is light.
Local tip Walk the waterfront and watch the boats. Eat fish nearby if you like, and leave early enough that the road back is in daylight.
Dinner
Fish soup by the water
A bowl of hot fish soup with lime and chile, or grilled fish and rice, eaten near the water before the road back.
Local tip Eat early so you are on the road in daylight.
If it rains. Museo de la Navegación is covered, so keep it. Move Pantanos de Centla, Parque Yumká and Frontera to a dry day if you can.
Day 6. Comalcalco and the cacao road
3 stops · 2.9 km on foot, 65.0 km by car
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
Drive from FronteraAbout 1 h 8 min by car65.0 km
Where Day 5 ended.
1
MorningBest early
Zona Arqueológica de Comalcalco
A Maya city built mainly of fired clay brick set in mortar made from burnt shell, an unusual choice in a land with little stone. Climb the stepped Acropolis with care for the view over the treetops, and look for traces of stucco figures on the walls.
Go whenEarly morning, before the heat builds.
Local tip The site is open to the sky with little shade, so bring a hat, water and repellent. Stay on the paths, never climb where it is marked closed, and check ahead on the opening.
The lanes between the town and its ruins pass groves of cacao, the tree behind chocolate, with pods that grow straight from the trunk under taller shade trees. Ask a grower before you step into any grove, since most farms are private and some welcome visitors by arrangement. Check ahead.
Go whenLate morning, in the shade of the groves.
Local tip Ask a grower directly if you may visit, since most farms are private. A good visit shows how the pods are opened and how the beans are fermented and dried. Check ahead.
Lunch
Fish and plantain in the lowlands
Fried or grilled fish with rice, salad and fried plantain, eaten slowly at a shaded table near the groves.
Local tip Order a cold fruit water, and choose a table where the fish moves quickly.
About 18 min walk1.5 km
3
Afternoon
Comalcalco town
The town of Comalcalco, the heart of a district that has grown cacao for centuries. Walk its plaza in the shade, and look for cocoa products in the shops and the market. Buy from the maker where you can.
Go whenAfternoon, after the heat of midday.
Local tip Walk the plaza in the shade and look in the shops for chocolate. Ask the seller who made it, and buy from the maker where you can.
Dinner
Chocolate and a light supper
A light supper of tacos or a quesadilla, then something sweet made with cacao, as a way to taste the district you have walked through.
Local tip Look for chocolate made nearby, and ask the seller about it.
If it rains. Everything today is outdoors, so swap this day with a drier one if you can.
Departure day
After the last day. Palenque is a long day from Villahermosa, so plan the flight for the next morning or later.Details
Back to the airport
The road from Palenque back to Villahermosa takes about two hours in good conditions and can be slower after rain or road works. Book a driver or a seat a day ahead, leave Palenque in daylight, and keep your flight for the next day if you can.
Chocolate to carry
Tabasco is cacao country, so bars, nibs and ground cacao are easy gifts. Ask the maker how it should be stored in the heat, and check what you may take through customs at home.
If you have a few hours
Walk the river promenade once more in the cool of the morning, or return to the park of stone heads for a slow hour among the trees before the airport.
Questions people ask
When is the best time to visit Villahermosa?
By average weather from 2021 to 2025, January to February and December are the most comfortable months for walking around Villahermosa. This plan is built for february to April, which is one of the best months. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
How many days does this plan cover?
It covers 6 days in Villahermosa, planned for february to April. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.
Who is this plan for?
It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.
Is anything on this plan booked?
No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.
Can I plan my own days like this?
Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.
Can I change this plan?
Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.
How much walking is there?
On foot, about 0.1 to 2.9 kilometers a day, and 423.6 kilometers by car in all across 6 days. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.