2 days of cacao farms, rivers and jungle ruins in Tabasco

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. 1
   Morning

   Parque-Museo La Venta

   An open air museum in a patch of jungle in the city, where colossal stone heads, altars and carved blocks made by the Olmec long ago stand along shaded paths. They were moved here from the original site of La Venta, to the west. Walk slowly, since the heat and the insects are real.

   Go when Morning, as early as you can, before the heat.

   Local tip Walk the shaded paths slowly and read the signs beside each stone. Wear repellent and light clothes, carry water, and check ahead on the opening.

   About 10 min by car or transit2.7 km
2. 2
   MiddayIndoor

   Museo Regional de Antropología Carlos Pellicer Cámara

   A museum of the peoples of Tabasco, with objects from the Olmec and the Maya, near the river. It is a cool, indoor stop for the hottest hours. Take your time in a few rooms rather than all of them, and check ahead on the opening.

   Go when Midday, as a cool stop out of the sun.

   Local tip Choose a few rooms and look closely rather than rushing all of them. The Olmec and Maya rooms give useful context for the stone heads. Check ahead on the opening.

3. Lunch

   Pejelagarto asado

   A fish of the state, grilled whole over fire and served with tortillas, salsa and lime. A dish of rivers and lagoons that you will find in small riverside eating places.

   Local tip Ask the cook to remove the bones, and eat it hot.

4. Dinner

   Tamales of chipilín

   Steamed maize dough with a green herb called chipilín, wrapped in a leaf, a snack of the south that fills you without being heavy.

   Local tip Open the leaf and eat it with a spoon of salsa.

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. Drive from Museo Regional de Antropología Carlos Pellicer CámaraAbout 53 min by car44.6 km

   Where Day 1 ended.
2. 1
   Morning

   Zona Arqueológica de Comalcalco

   A Maya city built mainly of fired clay brick set in mortar made from burnt shell, an unusual choice in a land with little stone. Climb the stepped Acropolis with care for the view over the treetops, and look for traces of stucco figures on the walls.

   Go when Early morning, before the heat builds.

   Local tip The site is open to the sky with little shade, so bring a hat, water and repellent. Stay on the paths, never climb where it is marked closed, and check ahead on the opening.

   

   About 2 h 12 min by car150.9 km
3. 2
   Morning

   Temple of the Inscriptions

   A stepped pyramid with a royal tomb inside it, found there in the twentieth century. The temple stands above the forest on its terrace, and the inner stair is usually closed, so check ahead. Go in the first hours, while the air is cooler.

   Go when Morning, as soon as the site opens.

   Local tip The jungle is hot and humid by midday, so be there early. Bring water and repellent, and check ahead on whether the inner stair can be visited, which it usually cannot.

   

4. Lunch

   Fruit and corn at the gate

   Slices of fruit with lime and chile, grilled corn and a cold drink from the stalls near the entrance, a quick rest before the road.

   Local tip Fruit with lime and chile is a local way to cool down.

   About 1 h 47 min by car117.4 km
5. 3
   Morning

   Pantanos de Centla

   A biosphere reserve where the Grijalva and the Usumacinta rivers spread into marsh, lagoons, floodplain forest and mangrove, one of the wetlands that most shape the state. Go with a local guide and a boat, and never expect to see any animal, since they come and go. Check ahead on access.

   Go when Early morning, when the air is cooler.

   Local tip Go by boat with a local guide who knows the channels, wear the life jacket you are given, and carry water, a hat and repellent. Never expect to see any particular animal. Check ahead on access and the state of the water.

   

   About 1 h 8 min by car64.7 km
6. 4
   Midday

   The cacao road near Comalcalco

   The lanes between the town and its ruins pass groves of cacao, the tree behind chocolate, with pods that grow straight from the trunk under taller shade trees. Ask a grower before you step into any grove, since most farms are private and some welcome visitors by arrangement. Check ahead.

   Go when Late morning, in the shade of the groves.

   Local tip Ask a grower directly if you may visit, since most farms are private. A good visit shows how the pods are opened and how the beans are fermented and dried. Check ahead.

7. Dinner

   Chocolate and a light supper

   A light supper of tacos or a quesadilla, then something sweet made with cacao, as a way to taste the district you have walked through.

   Local tip Look for chocolate made nearby, and ask the seller about it.