2 days in Sicily

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. 1
   MorningWorth the time, go early

   Mount Etna

   The tallest active volcano in Europe, whose slopes are black with lava and green with vineyards and pistachio groves. Cable cars and guided buses take visitors up the mountain. Check ahead on activity and on how high you can go.

   Go when Morning, before cloud builds on the peak.

   Local tip Etna is an active volcano, and access to the summit depends on its activity. Wear warm clothes and sturdy shoes, because it is cold and windy at height, and go with a guide above the cable car.

   

   About 1 h 16 min by car76.2 km
2. 2
   MorningWorth the time

   Ortygia

   The island that holds the old center of Syracuse, joined to the mainland by a short bridge, with lanes of pale stone, a market, harbor walls and a seafront promenade. Walk it slowly, and end at the square.

   Go when Morning, when the market is open and the light is soft.

   Local tip The island is small and car-free in places, so park outside it and walk in. The seafront promenade is lovely at the end of the day.

   

3. Lunch

   A seafood pasta

   Pasta with clams or sea urchin, the plate of the sea in Syracuse.

   Local tip Sea urchin is a taste for the brave, so ask for it on the side.

   About 10 min by car or transit2.4 km
4. 3
   MiddayWorth the time

   Greek Theatre of Syracuse

   A huge theater cut into the rock of the hill in the fifth century before Christ, in the archaeological park on the mainland. Greek plays are still performed here in late spring. Check ahead for the season.

   Go when Midday, then shade in the park nearby.

   Local tip A big, open site with little shade, so wear a hat. Greek plays are staged here in late spring, so check ahead if you want to see one.

   

   About 1 h 24 min by car86.4 km
5. 4
   AfternoonWorth the time

   Ancient Theatre of Taormina

   A Greek and Roman theatre on the edge of town, still used for performances, with a famous view of Etna and the sea through its broken arches. Come in the late afternoon, when the light is softest.

   Go when Late afternoon, when the light is soft (about 7:42 PM).

   Local tip Sit on the stone steps and look through the arch to Etna. Check ahead for performances, which can close the site for part of the day.

   

6. Dinner

   Cannoli and a final glass of wine

   Crisp pastry tubes filled with sweet ricotta, with a glass of sweet wine.

   Local tip Ask for the cannoli to be filled to order, so the shell stays crisp.

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. Drive from Ancient Theatre of TaorminaAbout 2 h 20 min by car162.3 km

   Where Day 1 ended.
2. 1
   MiddayWorth the time, go early

   Valley of the Temples

   The ruins of the Greek city of Akragas, a ridge of Doric temples from the fifth century before Christ. Walk the length of it, from the temple of Juno to the temple of Concordia, in the early light.

   Go when Morning, before the heat, or evening in summer.

   Local tip There is almost no shade, so take a hat and water. In summer, the site stays open late for the evening light, which is lovely.

   

   About 1 h 28 min by car92.0 km
3. 2
   MiddayWorth the time, go early

   Monreale Cathedral

   A twelfth-century cathedral on the hill above Palermo, its walls covered with some of the largest gold mosaics in the world. A cloister of paired columns, each carved differently, sits beside it.

   Go when Morning, before the tour groups reach the hill.

   Local tip Cover your shoulders and knees. Look up at the apse and the story told along the walls. Check ahead on the cloister, which has its own hours.

   

4. Lunch

   Arancini and panelle

   Fried rice balls filled with meat and peas, and little chickpea fritters in a roll, bought from a market stall.

   Local tip Eat them hot and standing. Arancine in Palermo are round, and arancini in Catania are cone shaped.

   About 1 h 50 min by car121.5 km
5. 3
   MiddayWorth the time, go early

   Villa Romana del Casale

   A large Roman country villa of the fourth century, near Piazza Armerina, famous for its floors of colorful mosaics showing hunts, animals and athletes. Raised walkways take you above them. Go early.

   Go when Morning, before the heat and the coaches.

   Local tip The mosaics are covered by walkways and roofs, so the visit is in shade. Give it at least an hour, and take water.

   

   About 1 h 49 min by car119.7 km
6. 4
   AfternoonWorth the time, book ahead

   Palatine Chapel

   The royal chapel of the Norman kings, inside their palace, covered in twelfth-century gold mosaics under a painted wooden ceiling made by Arab craftsmen. One of the great rooms of the Mediterranean. Check ahead on visiting, since the palace is also used by the Sicilian parliament.

   Go when Afternoon, with a booked time.

   Local tip Entry is controlled and the chapel can close when the parliament sits, so check ahead and book. Give it time, because the gold is best seen slowly.

   

7. Dinner

   Pasta con le sarde

   Pasta with sardines, wild fennel, raisins, pine nuts and breadcrumbs, a Palermo classic.

   Local tip Sicilians eat late, so book for nine or later.