3 days of surf, lagoons and coves on the Oaxaca coast

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. 1
   MorningBest early

   Playa Principal

   The town beach on the bay of Puerto Escondido, where the fishing boats are pulled up on the sand and the town begins. It is a working beach more than a resort one. Walk along the water, watch the boats, and keep to the shore if the swell is up.

   Go when Early morning, when the boats and the first walkers are out.

   Local tip Walk the whole bay once and stay on the sand if the swell is up. Ask a local about the water before you swim, and carry water, since shade is scarce.

   About 9 min by car or transit2.2 km
2. 2
   Evening

   Playa Zicatela

   The long beach south of the bay, a surf break known across Mexico. The waves are fast, heavy and break close to the shore, and strong currents run along it. It is for experienced surfers only, so do not swim here. Watch from the sand and let the light fade.

   Go when Late afternoon, for the light on the waves (about 6:14 PM).

   Local tip This is a break for experienced surfers only, with strong currents. Watch from the sand and never swim here. If you want to surf, ask a local surf school about a calmer beach for lessons.

3. Lunch

   Fish tacos

   Soft corn tortillas with fish, cabbage and a squeeze of lime, eaten at a table near the water. A simple lunch after a morning at the coves.

   Local tip Add salsa a little at a time.

   

   About 9 min by car or transit2.4 km
4. 3
   Evening

   The Adoquin

   The cobbled walking street of Puerto Escondido, a stretch of Pérez Gasga closed to most traffic, with open air tables, small shops and craft stalls. It is where the town gathers once the heat goes, so come as the light fades.

   Go when Evening, once the heat has gone (about 6:14 PM).

   Local tip Walk it slowly from end to end, then choose a table. Carry small notes for the stalls, and keep a hand on your phone in the crowd.

5. Dinner

   Pescado a la talla

   A whole fish split open, rubbed with a red chile paste and grilled over coals, served with rice and salad. A dish of the Pacific coast, eaten with the hands.

   Local tip Share one fish between two, and squeeze plenty of lime on it.

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. 1
   Morning

   Playa Carrizalillo

   A small cove of pale sand tucked below the cliffs, reached by a long staircase from the street above. Local fishing families and surfers share it. The cove is more sheltered than the open beach, but check the waves and ask a lifeguard before you swim.

   Go when Morning, when the cove is quiet and the light is soft.

   Local tip The staircase is long and uneven, so wear shoes you can climb in, and leave nothing of value on the sand. Ask a lifeguard about the water before you go in.

   About 31 min by car or transit15.7 km
2. 2
   MorningBest early

   Laguna de Manialtepec

   A large lagoon behind the coast west of Puerto Escondido, ringed by mangroves and fed by the sea at its edge. Local boatmen take visitors out to see the birds that use it. Some nights the water can glow, but only sometimes and never on demand, so check ahead and do not count on it.

   Go when Early morning, when the birds are active and the water is still.

   Local tip Go with a local boatman, wear insect repellent and keep to their advice. Do not swim, and check ahead on what is running. Any glow on the water is rare and never promised.

   

3. Lunch

   Fried whole fish

   A whole fried fish with rice, tortillas and a squeeze of lime, eaten at a plain table in the shade near the water.

   Local tip Eat after the lagoon, and drink plenty of water.

   About 32 min by car or transit16.3 km
4. 3
   Midday

   Playa Manzanillo

   A small sheltered bay beside the town centre, with calmer water than the open beaches and rocks at either end. Many people swim here, but waves and currents change from day to day, so ask a lifeguard or a local before you go in.

   Go when Late morning, before the day gets hot.

   Local tip The bay is more sheltered than the open beaches, but not always calm. Ask a lifeguard or a local about the day, and stay close to the shore.

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. Drive from Playa ManzanilloAbout 1 h 4 min by car59.7 km

   Where Day 2 ended.
2. 1
   MorningIndoor

   Mexican Turtle Centre

   The Mexican Turtle Centre, the Centro Mexicano de la Tortuga, a research and conservation centre in Mazunte with tanks of sea turtles and other species of the coast. It grew out of a place where turtles were once hunted. Check ahead on when it is open.

   Go when Morning, before the heat.

   Local tip Look and do not touch. Ask the staff how the centre works, and check ahead on when it is open. It is a research place, so keep your voice low.

   

   About 20 min walk1.6 km
3. 2
   Midday

   Playa Mermejita

   A quiet beach west of Mazunte, with a long, open shore and a few simple places to sit. The surf is strong and currents run along this part of the coast, so walk the sand and look at the sea. Do not swim unless locals say the day is safe.

   Go when Midday, for a long look at the sea.

   Local tip Bring water, shade and food. The surf and currents are strong, so walk the sand and do not swim unless local people tell you the day is safe.

4. Lunch

   Grilled fish with garlic

   A whole fish grilled with garlic and chile, served with rice, salad and warm tortillas at a simple table with the sea in front of it.

   Local tip Ask what was caught that day.

   About 13 min walk1.1 km
5. 3
   Evening

   Punta Cometa

   A rocky headland that marks the southernmost point of the Oaxaca coast, reached by a footpath from Mazunte. The path is rough and has little shade. Go in good shoes, take water and watch the sun go down over the sea. The rocks can be slick, so keep well back from the edge.

   Go when Late afternoon, so you see the sun go down (about 6:14 PM).

   Local tip Wear closed shoes, take water and a torch for the way back, and keep well back from the cliff edge. The path is rough and the rocks can be slippery.