Six easy days built around the table: the Zocalo and its markets, the gilded church of Santo Domingo, then Monte Alban, the weaving and pottery villages and the stone ruins of the valley. Long lunches, a treat stop most days, and room to sit.
6 daysAnyoneLate October19 places
Copy this plan to your own trips, then change anything you like.
From average weather, 2021 to 2025: days that are warm but not hot, with few rainy days, score highest. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
This plan works for 2 to 6 days
Tap a number and the same city is rearranged to fit, with the must-sees kept.
Before Day 1. Oaxaca sits high and the sun is strong, so go slowly and let the first evening be a long dinner.Details
Getting in
The airport lies south of the city, a short ride from the center. Taxis and shared vans both serve it, so choose by your bags and your hour. Many travelers also arrive by long-distance bus, so check ahead on which terminal yours uses.
Where to stay
The streets between the Zocalo and Santo Domingo put markets, churches, galleries and dinner within a few blocks. A room near the church is quieter at night than one on the square.
Getting around
The center is flat and made for walking. Taxis help with the hills. For the valley days, a shared tour, a taxi for the day or a rental car all work. Check ahead on the roads and on what each tour covers.
Day of the Dead
In late October and early November the city fills with visitors for Day of the Dead. Rooms, tours and tables go early, so check ahead and book well before you travel. Streets can be crowded and some roads closed in the evenings.
Day 1. The Zocalo and the market smoke alley
3 stops · 0.5 km
An easy first day around the main square. Coffee, a cathedral, and a market lunch where you choose your meat and watch it grilled.
Breakfast
Hot chocolate and pan de yema
Oaxacan chocolate is ground with cinnamon and almonds and whisked until frothy. Dip a round of pan de yema, a soft egg-yolk bread, into the cup.
Local tip Ask for it made with water for a lighter cup, or with milk for a richer one.
The shaded main square of the old city, with tall trees, a bandstand, and arcades of cafes along its edges. Find a table, order something warm and watch the city start its day.
Go whenMorning for coffee, or evening when the lights come on.
Local tip Take a table under the arcade and stay for one more cup than you planned. The square is for watching, not for ticking off.
Dinner
A tlayuda in the evening
A tlayuda is a large, crisp tortilla spread with black beans, quesillo and your choice of meat, folded and grilled. A classic late dinner.
Local tip Share one between two, and order a salsa on the side.
About 2 min walk0.1 km
2
MorningWorth a short look
Oaxaca Cathedral
The old stone cathedral on the north side of the square, with a carved front and a calm, dim nave. Step in out of the sun for a few minutes.
Go whenMorning, before the heat builds.
Local tip Look at the carved stone front from the middle of the square, then step inside for a few quiet minutes.
Nieve is the local ice cream, churned by hand in flavors like burnt milk, prickly pear and mamey. A cold cup in the shade of the square.
Local tip Try two small scoops in different flavors, one familiar and one not.
About 5 min walk0.4 km
3
MiddayWorth the time
Mercado 20 de Noviembre
A covered market just south of the square, with rows of food stalls and a famous smoke alley where you choose raw meat and it is grilled over charcoal. Come hungry and go slowly.
Go whenLate morning, when the charcoal is hot and the lunch crowd has not arrived.
Local tip In the smoke alley, pick your meat, such as tasajo, and a few grilled onions and chiles, and it comes with tortillas. Ask at the market food hall for a mole or a bowl of broth.
Lunch
Tasajo from the smoke alley
Thin ribbons of beef grilled over charcoal in the market smoke alley, with chorizo, grilled onions and a stack of fresh tortillas.
Local tip Order by the plate, and ask for grilled chiles and a squeeze of lime.
If it rains. Keep the market and the cathedral, which are under a roof, and linger over lunch in the smoke alley. Skip the long time on the open square.
Day 2. Santo Domingo, the garden and the walking street
3 stops · 0.3 km
A walk north along the pedestrian street to the gilded church, with a museum, a long lunch and a mezcal tasting to end on.
Breakfast
Memelas with quesillo
Memelas are thick, hand-pressed corn cakes, toasted on a griddle and topped with beans, a stringy white cheese called quesillo and a spoonful of salsa.
Local tip Look for them at a market comedor, a simple family kitchen with a few tables.
1
MorningA slow walk
Andador Macedonio Alcala
A pedestrian street of old houses, galleries, small shops and street musicians that runs from the cathedral toward Santo Domingo. Walk it slowly and look in at doorways.
Go whenMorning, before the shops open, or the soft light after sunset (about 6:05 PM).
Local tip Look into the courtyards and the galleries that open onto the street. Stop for a drink wherever the music sounds good.
About 3 min walk0.2 km
2
MorningWorth the time
Church of Santo Domingo de Guzman
A grand stone church with an interior covered in gold leaf, one of the great churches of Mexico. Go in and look up at the carved ceiling.
Go whenMorning, when the light comes in low and the church is calm.
Local tip Look up as soon as you enter. The gold leaf on the ceiling is easiest to take in from the middle of the nave.
Mezcal is the smoky spirit of Oaxaca, made from agave. A mezcaleria pours small sips and explains the plants and the method. Sip it slowly, with orange slices and a salt made with ground chile.
Local tip Ask what the agave is and where it was made. Drink water between sips.
The old monastery beside the church, now a museum of the region, with the gold and jewelry found in the tombs of Monte Alban. Choose a few rooms and give them time.
Go whenMidday, once you have seen the church.
Local tip Go straight to the rooms of gold and jewelry from the tombs of Monte Alban. You will be tired before you see every room, so stop early.
Oaxaca is known as the land of seven moles, each a different sauce: dark and smoky, red, yellow, green and more. Order a plate and ask which one you are eating.
Local tip If the menu offers a tasting plate of moles, order that and share.
If it rains. Santo Domingo and the museum are indoors, so this is a good rainy day. Walk the pedestrian street in the gaps between showers.
Day 3. Monte Alban, green pottery and the basilica
3 stops · 23.5 km
An early start on the hill, then a slow return through a pottery village. The afternoon ends at the basilica with a nieve.
Travel from Santo Domingo Cultural CenterAbout 15 min by car or transit5.3 km
Where Day 2 ended.
1
MorningWorth the time
Monte Alban
The ancient Zapotec city on a flattened hilltop above Oaxaca, with a great plaza, stepped platforms and a wide view over the valley. Go early, while the stone is cool.
Go whenEarly morning, before the sun gets hot.
Local tip Walk the whole plaza once, then climb a platform for the view. Bring water and a hat, because there is little shade.
The darkest mole of Oaxaca, made from dried chiles, chocolate, nuts, seeds and spices. Rich, deep and meant to be eaten slowly with tortillas.
Local tip Take a bite of the sauce on its own first, then with the chicken.
Treat
Hot chocolate and a nieve by the basilica
The plaza by the basilica is a classic spot for hot chocolate and nieves. Sit outside and let the evening cool.
Local tip Choose one hot and one cold, and share.
If it rains. Monte Alban is open ground with little shelter. Go in the morning, and keep the basilica and a long afternoon at a table for when rain comes.
Day 4. Mitla, Yagul and the mineral waterfalls
4 stops · 70.1 km
A full day east of the city by car or shared tour. A market town, two Zapotec sites and a cliff of white mineral rock, with a mezcal stop on the way back.
Drive from Basilica de la SoledadAbout 41 min by car29.3 km
Where Day 3 ended.
1
MorningA market stop
Tlacolula de Matamoros
A busy market town on the road east, with a church whose gilded chapel is much loved. Its big weekly market is a draw, so check ahead on the day.
Go whenMorning, on the way east.
Local tip Walk into the church to see the gilded chapel, then look for barbacoa, slow-cooked goat, from the market stalls.
The valley east of the city is full of small family stills called palenques, where mezcal is made from roasted agave. Many welcome visitors for a small tasting.
Local tip Check ahead before you go, and have a driver for the road back.
About 37 min by car23.4 km
4
AfternoonWorth the time
Hierve el Agua
Cliffs of white mineral rock that look like frozen waterfalls, with natural pools and a long view of the mountains. Check ahead on the road and on conditions, and watch your footing on the wet stone.
Go whenAfternoon, then take the road back before dark.
Local tip Walk to the edge for the view, and take care on the wet stone. Check ahead on the road and on swimming rules in the pools.
The ice cream stands near the tree are known for odd flavors, such as cheese, burnt milk, avocado and prickly pear.
Local tip Order a mixed cup of two flavors you would never choose at home.
About 21 min by car18.8 km
3
AfternoonWorth the time
Teotitlan del Valle
A Zapotec weaving village where wool is spun, dyed with plants and insects and woven into rugs on wooden looms. Visit a family workshop and ask how the colors are made.
Go whenAfternoon, when the workshops are open to talk.
Local tip Ask how the wool is dyed. Cochineal makes the reds, and indigo the blues. Buy a small piece if you want something light to carry.
Black beans, a stew of the day and tortillas pressed and cooked to order by hand, in a family kitchen.
Local tip Ask for a cup of fresh-fruit water to go with it.
If it rains. Black pottery and weaving workshops are under cover, so this is a fair rainy day. The tree is quick to see between showers.
Day 6. A last slow day in town
3 stops · 22.9 km
A day with almost nothing to hurry for. A market breakfast, a garden, a museum of old art and a long last dinner.
Travel from Teotitlan del ValleAbout 35 min by car or transit21.3 km
Where Day 5 ended.
Breakfast
Champurrado and a market tamal
Champurrado is a thick, warm drink of corn and chocolate. Pair it with a tamal from a market table.
Local tip Eat standing at the counter, as locals do.
1
MorningWorth the time
Mercado Benito Juarez
A market of bread, cheese, chiles, dried herbs and chocolate, a few blocks from the Zocalo. Walk the aisles slowly and buy small things to carry home.
Go whenMorning, with an empty bag.
Local tip Buy a ball of quesillo and a loaf of pan de yema, plus dried chiles for the trip home. Ask the seller how to store each one.
Treat
Cacao ground to order
A chocolate grinder's shop turns roasted cacao beans, cinnamon and almonds into a paste while you wait. The smell alone is worth the walk.
Local tip Buy a small bag as a gift, and ask how to make it into a drink at home.
About 12 min walk1.0 km
2
MiddayCheck ahead
Oaxaca Ethnobotanical Garden
A garden of Oaxacan plants behind the old monastery of Santo Domingo, with tall cactus, and shaded paths. Visits are usually on a guided walk, so check ahead.
Go whenMidday, when the garden is warm and the cactus stands out.
Local tip Visits are usually on a guided walk, so check ahead on how to join one. Wear a hat and bring water.
A museum of ancient art in an old house, with a collection of pre-Hispanic pieces gathered by the painter Rufino Tamayo. Small enough to enjoy in an hour.
Go whenAfternoon, after a long lunch.
Local tip Take your time with the small clay figures. The rooms are small, so you can stop whenever your attention does.
Order a few dishes to share, such as a mole you have not tried, a tlayuda or chapulines, toasted grasshoppers with chile and lime, and end with a small glass of mezcal.
Local tip Order slowly and let the table fill up.
If it rains. The markets and the museum are covered. Move the garden to another day if it is pouring.
Departure day
After the last day. Keep the final morning for one more market breakfast and leave the airport ride unhurried.Details
One last market meal
Have a last breakfast at a market table, then walk the stalls for things to carry home: ground chocolate, a mole paste, dried chiles or a woven bag. Check customs and airline rules for food and drink before you pack.
Late flight
If your flight is in the evening, leave your bags at the hotel desk and walk the pedestrian street one more time, with a last cold nieve in the shade.
To the airport
The airport is south of the center. Taxis are easy to find, but give yourself extra time for traffic and for check-in, especially around holidays.
Questions people ask
When is the best time to visit Oaxaca?
By average weather from 2021 to 2025, January to February and October to December are the most comfortable months for walking around Oaxaca. This plan is built for late October, which is one of the best months. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
How many days does this plan cover?
It covers 6 days in Oaxaca, planned for late October. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.
Who is this plan for?
It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.
Is anything on this plan booked?
No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.
Can I plan my own days like this?
Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.
Can I change this plan?
Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.
How much walking is there?
Each day has about 0.3 to 40.8 kilometers between its stops, and 101.6 kilometers in all across 6 days. A short hop is a walk and a longer one a ride. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.