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Indulgence
Oaxaca, Oaxaca: 6 days of slow eating in OaxacaPhoto: August Dominus, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
Indulgence TreatTrip idea · Oaxaca, Oaxaca

6 days of slow eating in Oaxaca

Six easy days built around the table: the Zocalo and its markets, the gilded church of Santo Domingo, then Monte Alban, the weaving and pottery villages and the stone ruins of the valley. Long lunches, a treat stop most days, and room to sit.

6 daysAnyoneLate October19 places
Copy this plan to your own trips, then change anything you like.
Oaxaca
Photo: August Dominus, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
Oaxaca
Photo: August Dominus, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
How many days?Pick yours and the plan rearranges.

Best time to go

January to February and October to December are the most comfortable months for walking around.
  1. Jan
  2. Feb
  3. Mar
  4. Apr
  5. May
  6. Jun
  7. Jul
  8. Aug
  9. Sep
  10. Oct
  11. Nov
  12. Dec

Arrival day

Before Day 1. Oaxaca sits high and the sun is strong, so go slowly and let the first evening be a long dinner.Details
Getting in
The airport lies south of the city, a short ride from the center. Taxis and shared vans both serve it, so choose by your bags and your hour. Many travelers also arrive by long-distance bus, so check ahead on which terminal yours uses.
Where to stay
The streets between the Zocalo and Santo Domingo put markets, churches, galleries and dinner within a few blocks. A room near the church is quieter at night than one on the square.
Getting around
The center is flat and made for walking. Taxis help with the hills. For the valley days, a shared tour, a taxi for the day or a rental car all work. Check ahead on the roads and on what each tour covers.
Day of the Dead
In late October and early November the city fills with visitors for Day of the Dead. Rooms, tours and tables go early, so check ahead and book well before you travel. Streets can be crowded and some roads closed in the evenings.

Day 1. The Zocalo and the market smoke alley

3 stops · 0.5 km

An easy first day around the main square. Coffee, a cathedral, and a market lunch where you choose your meat and watch it grilled.

  1. Breakfast

    Hot chocolate and pan de yema

    Oaxacan chocolate is ground with cinnamon and almonds and whisked until frothy. Dip a round of pan de yema, a soft egg-yolk bread, into the cup.

    Local tip Ask for it made with water for a lighter cup, or with milk for a richer one.

    Hot chocolate and pan de yema
    Photo: || UggBoy♥UggGirl || PHOT…, CC BY 2.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  2. 1
    MorningA place to sit

    The Zocalo

    The shaded main square of the old city, with tall trees, a bandstand, and arcades of cafes along its edges. Find a table, order something warm and watch the city start its day.

    Go when Morning for coffee, or evening when the lights come on.

    Local tip Take a table under the arcade and stay for one more cup than you planned. The square is for watching, not for ticking off.

  3. Dinner

    A tlayuda in the evening

    A tlayuda is a large, crisp tortilla spread with black beans, quesillo and your choice of meat, folded and grilled. A classic late dinner.

    Local tip Share one between two, and order a salsa on the side.

    About 2 min walk0.1 km
  4. 2
    MorningWorth a short look

    Oaxaca Cathedral

    The old stone cathedral on the north side of the square, with a carved front and a calm, dim nave. Step in out of the sun for a few minutes.

    Go when Morning, before the heat builds.

    Local tip Look at the carved stone front from the middle of the square, then step inside for a few quiet minutes.

    Oaxaca Cathedral, Oaxaca
    Photo: Moody 75, CC BY-SA 2.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  5. Treat

    A scoop of nieve

    Nieve is the local ice cream, churned by hand in flavors like burnt milk, prickly pear and mamey. A cold cup in the shade of the square.

    Local tip Try two small scoops in different flavors, one familiar and one not.

    About 5 min walk0.4 km
  6. 3
    MiddayWorth the time

    Mercado 20 de Noviembre

    A covered market just south of the square, with rows of food stalls and a famous smoke alley where you choose raw meat and it is grilled over charcoal. Come hungry and go slowly.

    Go when Late morning, when the charcoal is hot and the lunch crowd has not arrived.

    Local tip In the smoke alley, pick your meat, such as tasajo, and a few grilled onions and chiles, and it comes with tortillas. Ask at the market food hall for a mole or a bowl of broth.

  7. Lunch

    Tasajo from the smoke alley

    Thin ribbons of beef grilled over charcoal in the market smoke alley, with chorizo, grilled onions and a stack of fresh tortillas.

    Local tip Order by the plate, and ask for grilled chiles and a squeeze of lime.

If it rains. Keep the market and the cathedral, which are under a roof, and linger over lunch in the smoke alley. Skip the long time on the open square.

Day 2. Santo Domingo, the garden and the walking street

3 stops · 0.3 km

A walk north along the pedestrian street to the gilded church, with a museum, a long lunch and a mezcal tasting to end on.

  1. Breakfast

    Memelas with quesillo

    Memelas are thick, hand-pressed corn cakes, toasted on a griddle and topped with beans, a stringy white cheese called quesillo and a spoonful of salsa.

    Local tip Look for them at a market comedor, a simple family kitchen with a few tables.

  2. 1
    MorningA slow walk

    Andador Macedonio Alcala

    A pedestrian street of old houses, galleries, small shops and street musicians that runs from the cathedral toward Santo Domingo. Walk it slowly and look in at doorways.

    Go when Morning, before the shops open, or the soft light after sunset (about 6:05 PM).

    Local tip Look into the courtyards and the galleries that open onto the street. Stop for a drink wherever the music sounds good.

    About 3 min walk0.2 km
  3. 2
    MorningWorth the time

    Church of Santo Domingo de Guzman

    A grand stone church with an interior covered in gold leaf, one of the great churches of Mexico. Go in and look up at the carved ceiling.

    Go when Morning, when the light comes in low and the church is calm.

    Local tip Look up as soon as you enter. The gold leaf on the ceiling is easiest to take in from the middle of the nave.

    Church of Santo Domingo de Guzman, Oaxaca
    Photo: DavidConFran, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  4. Treat

    A mezcal tasting afternoon

    Mezcal is the smoky spirit of Oaxaca, made from agave. A mezcaleria pours small sips and explains the plants and the method. Sip it slowly, with orange slices and a salt made with ground chile.

    Local tip Ask what the agave is and where it was made. Drink water between sips.

    A mezcal tasting afternoon
    Photo: ProtoplasmaKid, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 2 min walkunder 0.1 km
  5. 3
    MiddayPick your rooms

    Santo Domingo Cultural Center

    The old monastery beside the church, now a museum of the region, with the gold and jewelry found in the tombs of Monte Alban. Choose a few rooms and give them time.

    Go when Midday, once you have seen the church.

    Local tip Go straight to the rooms of gold and jewelry from the tombs of Monte Alban. You will be tired before you see every room, so stop early.

    Santo Domingo Cultural Center, Oaxaca: The Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán with twin bell towers in Oaxaca, Mexico
    Photo by Peter Beke on Unsplash
  6. Lunch

    The seven moles of Oaxaca

    Oaxaca is known as the land of seven moles, each a different sauce: dark and smoky, red, yellow, green and more. Order a plate and ask which one you are eating.

    Local tip If the menu offers a tasting plate of moles, order that and share.

    The seven moles of Oaxaca
    Photo: AlejandroLinaresGarcia, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
If it rains. Santo Domingo and the museum are indoors, so this is a good rainy day. Walk the pedestrian street in the gaps between showers.

Day 3. Monte Alban, green pottery and the basilica

3 stops · 23.5 km

An early start on the hill, then a slow return through a pottery village. The afternoon ends at the basilica with a nieve.

  1. Travel from Santo Domingo Cultural CenterAbout 15 min by car or transit5.3 km
    Where Day 2 ended.
  2. 1
    MorningWorth the time

    Monte Alban

    The ancient Zapotec city on a flattened hilltop above Oaxaca, with a great plaza, stepped platforms and a wide view over the valley. Go early, while the stone is cool.

    Go when Early morning, before the sun gets hot.

    Local tip Walk the whole plaza once, then climb a platform for the view. Bring water and a hat, because there is little shade.

    Monte Alban, Oaxaca
    Photo: nsaum75 !Dígame¡ ‎, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 19 min by car9.3 km
  3. 2
    AfternoonWorth a short visit

    Santa Maria Atzompa

    A hillside village known for its green-glazed pottery. Walk its lanes and look into the workshops where plates, pots and figures are made.

    Go when Afternoon, on the way back down to the city.

    Local tip Ask a potter to show how a plate is glazed. Green glaze is the village's own, and a small piece packs well.

    Santa Maria Atzompa, Oaxaca
    Photo: AlejandroLinaresGarcia, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  4. Lunch

    Tamales wrapped in banana leaf

    Oaxacan tamales are steamed in banana leaf, often filled with mole and chicken. A slow, filling lunch after the morning on the hill.

    Local tip Eat one with a cup of hot atole, a warm corn drink.

    Tamales wrapped in banana leaf
    Photo: Georgina Meneses, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 14 min by car8.8 km
  5. 3
    EveningWorth a short visit

    Basilica de la Soledad

    The baroque church of Oaxaca's patron saint, with a carved stone front and a plaza outside where people stop for a nieve or a cup of hot chocolate.

    Go when Late afternoon, then a nieve on the plaza.

    Local tip Step in to see the carved front and the figure of the saint, then sit outside with a nieve or a cup of hot chocolate.

    Basilica de la Soledad, Oaxaca
    Photo: AlejandroLinaresGarcia, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  6. Dinner

    Mole negro with chicken

    The darkest mole of Oaxaca, made from dried chiles, chocolate, nuts, seeds and spices. Rich, deep and meant to be eaten slowly with tortillas.

    Local tip Take a bite of the sauce on its own first, then with the chicken.

  7. Treat

    Hot chocolate and a nieve by the basilica

    The plaza by the basilica is a classic spot for hot chocolate and nieves. Sit outside and let the evening cool.

    Local tip Choose one hot and one cold, and share.

If it rains. Monte Alban is open ground with little shelter. Go in the morning, and keep the basilica and a long afternoon at a table for when rain comes.

Day 4. Mitla, Yagul and the mineral waterfalls

4 stops · 70.1 km

A full day east of the city by car or shared tour. A market town, two Zapotec sites and a cliff of white mineral rock, with a mezcal stop on the way back.

  1. Drive from Basilica de la SoledadAbout 41 min by car29.3 km
    Where Day 3 ended.
  2. 1
    MorningA market stop

    Tlacolula de Matamoros

    A busy market town on the road east, with a church whose gilded chapel is much loved. Its big weekly market is a draw, so check ahead on the day.

    Go when Morning, on the way east.

    Local tip Walk into the church to see the gilded chapel, then look for barbacoa, slow-cooked goat, from the market stalls.

    Tlacolula de Matamoros, Oaxaca
    Photo: Bluerasberry, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  3. Breakfast

    Barbacoa of goat

    Barbacoa is goat or lamb slow-cooked in a pit under agave leaves, served with tortillas, a broth and fresh salsa. A hearty market breakfast.

    Local tip Ask for a bowl of the broth to sip alongside it.

    Barbacoa of goat
    Photo: Elton Rodriguez, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 11 min by car or transit3.1 km
  4. 2
    MorningWorth a short walk

    Yagul

    The ruins of a Zapotec hilltop town on a ridge, with a ball court, stone patios and a long view over the valley and its cactus.

    Go when Late morning, while the light is still soft.

    Local tip Climb to the top of the ridge for the view, and watch for cactus along the path.

    Yagul, Oaxaca
    Photo: México en Fotos, CC BY-SA 2.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 16 min by car14.3 km
  5. 3
    MiddayWorth the time

    Mitla

    A Zapotec ceremonial site famous for walls of stone fretwork in geometric patterns. A colonial church stands beside the ruins.

    Go when Midday, then a long lunch.

    Local tip Look at the stone walls up close. Each panel is made from many small cut stones fitted together in a repeating pattern.

    Mitla, Oaxaca
    Photo: Uploaded into English Wik…, CC BY 2.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  6. Treat

    A tasting at a family mezcal still

    The valley east of the city is full of small family stills called palenques, where mezcal is made from roasted agave. Many welcome visitors for a small tasting.

    Local tip Check ahead before you go, and have a driver for the road back.

    About 37 min by car23.4 km
  7. 4
    AfternoonWorth the time

    Hierve el Agua

    Cliffs of white mineral rock that look like frozen waterfalls, with natural pools and a long view of the mountains. Check ahead on the road and on conditions, and watch your footing on the wet stone.

    Go when Afternoon, then take the road back before dark.

    Local tip Walk to the edge for the view, and take care on the wet stone. Check ahead on the road and on swimming rules in the pools.

    Hierve el Agua, Oaxaca
    Photo: AlejandroLinaresGarcia, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  8. Lunch

    A roadside comedor lunch

    A simple kitchen with handmade tortillas pressed on a clay griddle, beans, quesillo and a stew of the day. Plain, local and filling.

    Local tip Ask what is cooking and point at what looks good.

If it rains. The ruins are open, and Hierve el Agua is slippery in the wet. If it rains all day, move this day or keep it to Tlacolula and Mitla.

Day 5. Black pottery, a great tree and the weavers

3 stops · 87.3 km

A day in the villages around Oaxaca. Three short drives, three kinds of craft, and a long lunch somewhere in between.

  1. Drive from Hierve el AguaAbout 54 min by car47.0 km
    Where Day 4 ended.
  2. 1
    MorningWorth the time

    San Bartolo Coyotepec

    The village of black pottery, where clay is polished by hand and fired until it turns a deep, silvery black. Watch the potters at work.

    Go when Morning, when the workshops are warm and quiet.

    Local tip Ask to see the polishing, done with a smooth stone before firing. The shine comes from the stone, not from paint.

    San Bartolo Coyotepec, Oaxaca
    Photo: AlejandroLinaresGarcia, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  3. Breakfast

    Atole and a sweet tamal

    A warm corn drink and a soft tamal filled with fruit or chocolate, a sweet start before the road.

    Local tip Buy a second tamal for the car.

    Atole and a sweet tamal
    Photo: ottmarliebert.com, CC BY-SA 2.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 25 min by car21.5 km
  4. 2
    MiddayWorth a short visit

    Santa Maria del Tule

    A village whose churchyard holds a huge old cypress with an enormously wide trunk. Walk around it, then try an unusual flavor of nieve in the plaza.

    Go when Midday, as a break on the drive.

    Local tip Stand back from the tree to take in its width, then look for a nieve in an unusual flavor, such as burnt milk or prickly pear.

    Santa Maria del Tule, Oaxaca
    Photo: Nsaum75, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  5. Treat

    Nieves in unusual flavors

    The ice cream stands near the tree are known for odd flavors, such as cheese, burnt milk, avocado and prickly pear.

    Local tip Order a mixed cup of two flavors you would never choose at home.

    About 21 min by car18.8 km
  6. 3
    AfternoonWorth the time

    Teotitlan del Valle

    A Zapotec weaving village where wool is spun, dyed with plants and insects and woven into rugs on wooden looms. Visit a family workshop and ask how the colors are made.

    Go when Afternoon, when the workshops are open to talk.

    Local tip Ask how the wool is dyed. Cochineal makes the reds, and indigo the blues. Buy a small piece if you want something light to carry.

    Teotitlan del Valle, Oaxaca
    Photo: Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  7. Lunch

    A village lunch with fresh tortillas

    Black beans, a stew of the day and tortillas pressed and cooked to order by hand, in a family kitchen.

    Local tip Ask for a cup of fresh-fruit water to go with it.

If it rains. Black pottery and weaving workshops are under cover, so this is a fair rainy day. The tree is quick to see between showers.

Day 6. A last slow day in town

3 stops · 22.9 km

A day with almost nothing to hurry for. A market breakfast, a garden, a museum of old art and a long last dinner.

  1. Travel from Teotitlan del ValleAbout 35 min by car or transit21.3 km
    Where Day 5 ended.
  2. Breakfast

    Champurrado and a market tamal

    Champurrado is a thick, warm drink of corn and chocolate. Pair it with a tamal from a market table.

    Local tip Eat standing at the counter, as locals do.

  3. 1
    MorningWorth the time

    Mercado Benito Juarez

    A market of bread, cheese, chiles, dried herbs and chocolate, a few blocks from the Zocalo. Walk the aisles slowly and buy small things to carry home.

    Go when Morning, with an empty bag.

    Local tip Buy a ball of quesillo and a loaf of pan de yema, plus dried chiles for the trip home. Ask the seller how to store each one.

  4. Treat

    Cacao ground to order

    A chocolate grinder's shop turns roasted cacao beans, cinnamon and almonds into a paste while you wait. The smell alone is worth the walk.

    Local tip Buy a small bag as a gift, and ask how to make it into a drink at home.

    About 12 min walk1.0 km
  5. 2
    MiddayCheck ahead

    Oaxaca Ethnobotanical Garden

    A garden of Oaxacan plants behind the old monastery of Santo Domingo, with tall cactus, and shaded paths. Visits are usually on a guided walk, so check ahead.

    Go when Midday, when the garden is warm and the cactus stands out.

    Local tip Visits are usually on a guided walk, so check ahead on how to join one. Wear a hat and bring water.

    Oaxaca Ethnobotanical Garden, Oaxaca
    Photo: Kaldari, CC0 on Wikimedia Commons
  6. Lunch

    Stuffed pasilla chiles

    Smoky pasilla chiles stuffed with meat or cheese and served in a light sauce. A classic Oaxacan plate.

    Local tip Ask if the filling is mild or hot before you order.

    Stuffed pasilla chiles
    Photo: Skyler Lewis ( w:en:User:…, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 7 min walk0.6 km
  7. 3
    AfternoonWorth a short visit

    Rufino Tamayo Museum

    A museum of ancient art in an old house, with a collection of pre-Hispanic pieces gathered by the painter Rufino Tamayo. Small enough to enjoy in an hour.

    Go when Afternoon, after a long lunch.

    Local tip Take your time with the small clay figures. The rooms are small, so you can stop whenever your attention does.

    Rufino Tamayo Museum, Oaxaca
    Photo: Miandigra, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  8. Dinner

    A long last dinner with mezcal

    Order a few dishes to share, such as a mole you have not tried, a tlayuda or chapulines, toasted grasshoppers with chile and lime, and end with a small glass of mezcal.

    Local tip Order slowly and let the table fill up.

If it rains. The markets and the museum are covered. Move the garden to another day if it is pouring.

Departure day

After the last day. Keep the final morning for one more market breakfast and leave the airport ride unhurried.Details
One last market meal
Have a last breakfast at a market table, then walk the stalls for things to carry home: ground chocolate, a mole paste, dried chiles or a woven bag. Check customs and airline rules for food and drink before you pack.
Late flight
If your flight is in the evening, leave your bags at the hotel desk and walk the pedestrian street one more time, with a last cold nieve in the shade.
To the airport
The airport is south of the center. Taxis are easy to find, but give yourself extra time for traffic and for check-in, especially around holidays.

Questions people ask

When is the best time to visit Oaxaca?

By average weather from 2021 to 2025, January to February and October to December are the most comfortable months for walking around Oaxaca. This plan is built for late October, which is one of the best months. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.

How many days does this plan cover?

It covers 6 days in Oaxaca, planned for late October. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.

Who is this plan for?

It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.

Is anything on this plan booked?

No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.

Can I plan my own days like this?

Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.

Can I change this plan?

Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.

How much walking is there?

Each day has about 0.3 to 40.8 kilometers between its stops, and 101.6 kilometers in all across 6 days. A short hop is a walk and a longer one a ride. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.

Keep exploring

Another plan for this city: 5 days of Day of the Dead in Oaxaca

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Photo: || UggBoy♥UggGirl || PHOT…, CC BY 2.0 on Wikimedia Commons · Photo: DavidConFran, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons

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A trip idea · Updated October 2026

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