A slow week and a day around the Luberon and the Rhone plain, by car. Stone villages on the hills, Avignon and Arles, Saint-Remy and Les Baux, Aix-en-Provence and the Pont du Gard. Two things a day, a market, a long lunch and open afternoons.
8 daysAnyoneLate September27 places
Copy this plan to your own trips, then change anything you like.
From average weather, 2021 to 2025: days that are warm but not hot, with few rainy days, score highest. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
This plan works for 2 to 8 days
Tap a number and the same city is rearranged to fit, with the must-sees kept.
Before Day 1. Pick up the car near where you land and drive to the hills with the afternoon to spare.Details
Where to land
Marseille has the largest airport for this trip, and Nimes is smaller and closer to Arles and Avignon. Avignon and Aix-en-Provence each have a high-speed train station outside the center, and a car is easy to collect at both.
Why you need a car
The hill villages are small and sit on back roads, with little or no train or bus service between them. A car lets you stop where you like, and the roads are quiet outside the main towns.
Where to stay
Choose one village in the Luberon as a base for the first half, and Avignon, Arles or Saint-Remy-de-Provence for the second. The distances are short, so you can unpack once or twice and no more.
Before you drive off
Small village centers have narrow lanes and parking just outside the walls. Take a few coins or a card for the car parks, and expect to walk the last few minutes. Day 1 starts in Gordes, so settle in nearby and sleep well.
Day 1. Gordes and the quiet valley
3 stops · 25.9 km
An easy start in the hills. A village stacked on a rock, an old abbey in a quiet valley and a river that rises from the ground. Three short stops and a long lunch.
1
MorningWorth the time
Gordes
A village of pale stone built up the side of a hill, with a castle at the top. Walk the steep lanes slowly and look back across the valley.
Go whenMorning, before the day visitors, or around sunset (about 7:52 PM) when the stone turns gold.
Local tip Stop at a bend on the road in and look at the village from outside first. The view of it stacked on the hill is the best one.
A plain stone abbey in a narrow valley, built by Cistercian monks and still a place of quiet. Lavender is planted in front of it, and it usually flowers in early summer, but the dates change with the year, so check ahead.
Go whenLate morning, then a slow lunch nearby.
Local tip Lavender usually flowers in early summer, and the dates change with the year, so check ahead. The valley is calm at any time of year.
Tapenade is a spread of black olives, capers and anchovies, eaten on toasted bread with a glass of cold rosé. A plain, long lunch on a terrace in the hills.
Local tip Order a few small plates and share them. Nobody here is in a hurry.
A small village at the end of a valley, where a deep green river comes out of the foot of a cliff. How much water you see depends on the season. Walk along the river, then sit by it.
Go whenAfternoon, then a drink beside the river.
Local tip The path to the spring is a short, gentle walk beside the water. How much water there is depends on the season.
Ratatouille is a slow stew of tomatoes, courgettes, aubergines and peppers cooked in olive oil. Order it as a side or as a main with a poached egg.
Local tip It is better on a warm evening, with a table outside.
If it rains. The abbey is the best choice if it rains, because its stone rooms are dry and quiet. Skip the river path at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse until the rain stops.
Day 2. Red earth and a hill village
3 stops · 34.6 km
A morning among the ochre cliffs, a slow lunch in the sun and an afternoon on a ridge. Colors you do not see anywhere else.
Drive from Fontaine-de-VaucluseAbout 23 min by car22.6 km
Where Day 1 ended.
Breakfast
A morning at a village market
A Provence market is a slow morning: stalls of olives, cheese, bread, honey, fruit and flowers. Buy a picnic and eat it in the shade. Check ahead for the market day of the village you pass through.
Local tip Go early, when the stalls are full and the lanes are quiet, and carry a basket or a bag.
1
MorningWorth the time
Roussillon
A village built from the red and yellow earth around it, so even the houses glow. Walk to the square and look at the colors of the walls.
Go whenMorning, when the light is soft on the walls.
Local tip Walk to the viewpoint at the top of the village and look out over the ochre cliffs before you go down to the trail.
A walking trail through old ochre quarries just outside the village, with red, orange and yellow cliffs. There is a short loop and a longer one, so choose the one that suits your legs. Wear shoes you do not mind staining.
Go whenLate morning or afternoon, on a dry day.
Local tip The red dust gets onto shoes and clothes, and it is hard to wash out. Wear things you do not mind marking, and stay on the paths.
A long, unhurried lunch under the plane trees: a plate of grilled vegetables, a daube of beef stewed in red wine, or a simple omelette with herbs.
Local tip Order the dish of the day and take your time over coffee.
About 14 min by car14.3 km
3
AfternoonWorth the time
Lourmarin
A lively little town on the southern side of the Luberon, with a Renaissance castle, a clock tower and tables in the shade. The writer Albert Camus is buried in the cemetery.
Go whenAfternoon, then stay for an early dinner.
Local tip Walk to the castle and around the edge of the village. Come back to a table in the square when you are done.
If it rains. Pick one village and spend a long, dry lunch in it. The lanes are steep, and wet stone is slippery.
Day 4. Avignon, the city of the popes
4 stops · 70.2 km
A walled city on the Rhone, with a huge palace, a bridge that stops halfway and a garden on a rock. Leave the car outside the walls and walk.
Drive from LourmarinAbout 48 min by car68.6 km
Where Day 3 ended.
Breakfast
A morning at the covered market
The covered market hall in the city has stalls of cheese, olives, meat, fish and bread, with places to stand and eat. A good way to begin the day before the palace.
Local tip Buy some bread and fruit and eat it on a bench in the park later.
1
MorningWorth the time
Palais des Papes
A vast stone palace, the home of the popes in the fourteenth century. The outside alone is worth standing in front of. Step inside to see its big rooms and courtyards.
Go whenMorning, before the middle of the day gets busy.
Local tip Stand in the big square in front of it first to see the whole front, then go inside.
Daube provençale is a stew of beef cooked slowly in red wine with herbs and orange peel, often served with rice, pasta or potatoes. Slow food for a slow evening.
Local tip It tastes even better on a cooler evening.
A small square with plane trees and cafe tables, close to the spot that Van Gogh painted at night. A good place to end the day.
Go whenEvening, around sunset (about 7:52 PM).
Local tip Take a table in the square and stay for the lights. The cafe terrace is good for people-watching.
Dinner
A salad of the Camargue
Rice grown in the nearby Camargue marshes is a local product, and it turns up in salads, in stuffed vegetables and beside a stew. Ask what the kitchen does with it tonight.
Local tip Pair it with a glass of the local rosé.
If it rains. The amphitheatre and the Van Gogh garden are mostly open to the sky. Keep the Alyscamps for a dry spell and take your time over lunch.
Day 6. Saint-Rémy and Les Baux
3 stops · 39.3 km
A gentle day in the Alpilles, the low white hills south of Avignon. A cloister where Van Gogh stayed, a Roman town in the olive trees and a ruined castle on a rock.
Drive from Place du ForumAbout 26 min by car27.6 km
Where Day 5 ended.
1
MorningWorth the time
Saint-Paul-de-Mausole
A quiet monastery with a cloister and a garden, where Van Gogh stayed for about a year and painted the olive trees and the wheat. It is still a care home, so keep to the visitor areas and be quiet.
Go whenMorning, when the cloister is quiet.
Local tip Look for the reproductions of his paintings in the garden, set up near where he painted them.
A cafe terrace on a tree-lined street is the right place for a slow lunch. Try a salad of tomatoes, a plate of cold meats, or a simple fish dish with herbs.
Local tip Take a table in the shade and order only what you want to eat.
About 3 min walk0.3 km
3
AfternoonWorth a short look
Place d'Albertas
A small, hidden square of the eighteenth century in the old town, with a fountain and honey-colored houses. Walk the lanes between here and the cathedral.
Go whenAfternoon, then wander the old town.
Local tip The square is small and easy to miss. Look for it off a narrow street, and listen for the fountain.
Calissons are small, diamond-shaped sweets of almond paste and candied melon, covered with a thin glaze, a specialty of Aix for centuries. Buy a few in a shop and eat them as you walk.
Local tip They keep well, so they make a good small gift to take home.
If it rains. Aix works well in the rain, with the studio, the cathedral and plenty of cafes to wait out a shower.
Day 8. The Pont du Gard and a last slow day
3 stops · 182.0 km
A famous Roman bridge in the morning, then a market town on the water and a last ruined village on a hill. The slowest drive of the trip, with nothing to hurry for.
Drive from Aix CathedralAbout 1 h 20 min by car112.2 km
Where Day 7 ended.
1
MorningWorth the time
Pont du Gard
A Roman aqueduct bridge of three tiers of stone arches over a river, nearly two thousand years old. Walk the paths beside the water and look up at it from below.
Go whenMorning, before the heat and the crowds.
Local tip Walk down to the river and look up at the arches from below. The scale only makes sense from there.
A bowl of soup, bread and a salad of tomatoes, finished with a piece of local cheese. Light after a long trip.
Local tip Buy olives and a jar of tapenade to take home before you go.
If it rains. The Pont du Gard is best in the dry. In the rain, go to the town on the water and keep the ruined village for another day.
Departure day
After the last day. Leave the car near the airport or the station and let the last morning be slow.Details
Fuel and the car
Fill the tank before you head for the airport or the station. Rental offices near both can be busy at midday, so allow a little time for the return and the paperwork.
Trains and airports
Marseille airport and the Avignon and Aix-en-Provence stations are the main exits. Decide which one you need the night before and allow a comfortable margin for the drive.
A last morning
If your plans allow, buy bread, olives and a jar of tapenade at a market for the journey, then take a last slow coffee in the square.
Questions people ask
When is the best time to visit Provence?
By average weather from 2021 to 2025, March to May and September to October are the most comfortable months for walking around Provence. This plan is built for late September, which is one of the best months. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
How many days does this plan cover?
It covers 8 days in Provence, planned for late September. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.
Who is this plan for?
It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.
Is anything on this plan booked?
No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.
Can I plan my own days like this?
Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.
Can I change this plan?
Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.
How much walking is there?
Each day has about 1.5 to 69.8 kilometers between its stops, and 151.8 kilometers in all across 8 days. A short hop is a walk and a longer one a ride. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.