Five easy days in the food capital of France: the old town and its hidden passages, the Roman hill and the basilica, the great squares and a fine arts museum, the market hall and the rivers, then the silk-weavers’ slope and a big park. Long lunches, a treat each day and room to sit.
5 daysAnyoneLate September16 places
Copy this plan to your own trips, then change anything you like.
From average weather, 2021 to 2025: days that are warm but not hot, with few rainy days, score highest. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
This plan works for 2 to 6 days
Tap a number and the same city is rearranged to fit, with the must-sees kept.
Before Day 1. Lyon sits between two rivers, so a few minutes with the map makes every day simpler.Details
By train or plane
Fast trains arrive at Part-Dieu, the big station east of the Rhône, and some stop at Perrache, on the south end of the central peninsula. The airport has a tram that runs to Part-Dieu, so you can be in the center without a taxi.
Two rivers
The Saône is on the west side of the center and the Rhône on the east, and the narrow land between them is called the Presqu’île. Old Lyon and the hill of Fourvière lie across the Saône, and the park and the market hall across the Rhône.
Getting around
The center is flat and walkable, and the metro, trams and two small funiculars cover the hills. A day pass is worth asking about, because you will cross the city most days.
First evening
Walk across the Presqu’île to the Saône and look up at the hill, then sit down to a bouchon supper, the small traditional Lyon restaurants. Day 1 begins in the old town, so a hotel near the Saône is handy.
Day 1. Old Lyon and the river
3 stops · 0.5 km
A slow start in the old town. The stops are close together, so it is a morning of lanes and a long lunch, with the river for the afternoon.
1
MorningWorth a short visit
Lyon Cathedral
The old stone cathedral at the foot of the hill, begun in the Middle Ages, with a famous astronomical clock inside. Step in, look up and sit for a minute before the lanes.
Go whenMorning, before the lanes fill up.
Local tip Look for the big astronomical clock inside, then stand on the square outside and look back at the front.
The Renaissance old town between the cathedral and the river, with narrow lanes, tall pastel houses and the passages called traboules, which cut through buildings from one street to the next. Many are private, so check ahead for the ones open to walk.
Go whenMorning, when the lanes are quiet and the light is soft.
Local tip Walk a lane, then look for a doorway that leads through to a courtyard. If a door is shut, move on to the next one, because traboules are people’s homes.
A flat walk along the river bank, with the old town and the hill rising on the far side and the footbridges to cross when you like. An easy hour after lunch.
Go whenLate afternoon, around sunset (about 7:52 PM), when the old town turns gold.
Local tip Cross one of the footbridges and walk back on the other bank for the view of the hill.
Dinner
A supper at a bouchon
A bouchon is a small, traditional Lyon restaurant with a short menu of local dishes and a friendly, crowded room. Start with a plate of cured meats, then choose a hearty main.
Local tip Book a table, because the small rooms fill quickly, and say what you do not eat before you order.
If it rains. Keep the cathedral and a long lunch, and walk the lanes between showers. Wet stone is slippery, so skip the river walk until it clears.
Day 2. The hill of Fourvière
3 stops · 0.4 km
The hill where Roman Lugdunum began. One climb, a big view and a quiet day among old stones, with lunch in the middle.
1
MorningWorth the time
Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière
The white basilica on the hilltop above the old town, and the terrace in front of it with a long view over the city and the rivers. Go in for the gold mosaics.
Go whenMorning, when the terrace is quiet and the air is clear.
Local tip The funicular from the old town saves the climb. Walking down through the gardens is a good way back.
Two Roman theatres cut into the hillside, one large and one smaller, still used for concerts and shows in summer. Walk the stone seats and sit where the audience sat.
Go whenMidday, then lunch on the hill or back in the old town.
Local tip The theatre is in use in summer, so some seats may be covered. Check ahead if you want to sit in them.
A museum built into the hill beside the theatres, with mosaics, statues and objects from Roman Lyon. A quiet, indoor stop for the warm hours. Check ahead for its closing day.
Go whenEarly afternoon, when the stone is warm outside and the museum is cool.
Local tip The long ramps lead down through the museum. Look for the mosaics first, then go back up through the rest.
Despite its name, which means silk weaver’s brain, cervelle de canut is a creamy fresh cheese mixed with herbs, shallots and garlic, spread on bread. A Lyon starter at many tables.
Local tip It comes as a small pot on the table. Spread it generously and ask for more bread.
If it rains. The basilica, the Roman museum and the theatres’ covered corners are the keepers. The terrace view is best on a clear day, so move it if you can.
Day 3. The Presqu’île and the arts
4 stops · 1.2 km
The heart of the city between the rivers: one great square, one great museum and the town hall, with a lunch and a treat on the way.
1
MorningWorth a short look
Place Bellecour
One of the largest open squares in Europe, with an equestrian statue at its center and the hill of Fourvière in view beyond it. A good place to get your bearings.
Go whenMorning, then walk on toward the shops and the river.
Local tip Look back at the hill. The basilica is easy to find from the middle of the square.
A salad of curly lettuce with warm bacon, croutons and a soft poached egg, a bistro lunch you will find all over the city.
Local tip It is a full plate, so it makes a good lunch on its own, with a glass of wine.
About 13 min walk1.0 km
2
AfternoonPick your rooms
Museum of Fine Arts of Lyon
A large art museum in a former abbey, with a quiet garden courtyard in the middle. Choose a few rooms, then sit in the garden. Check ahead for its closing day.
Go whenEarly afternoon, after a long lunch.
Local tip Take a break in the garden courtyard in the middle of the building, away from the street.
The tarte aux pralines is Lyon’s sweet signature: a tart covered in bright pink, caramelized almonds. Buy a slice from a pastry shop and eat it on a bench.
Local tip It is very sweet, so share a slice with a coffee.
About 2 min walkunder 0.1 km
3
AfternoonA place to sit
Place des Terreaux
The square in front of the museum, with a fountain made by the sculptor of the Statue of Liberty. A good place to sit and watch the day go by.
Go whenLate afternoon, when the square fills with people.
Local tip Look at the fountain’s four horses, then take a table at one of the cafes on the square.
Andouillette is a coarse sausage made of tripe, a Lyon tradition with a strong flavor. Ask what is in it, and order a plain grilled sausage or a chicken dish if it does not tempt you.
Local tip It is an acquired taste, so share a plate before you commit to a whole one.
The covered market hall of Lyon, with stalls and counters for cheese, cured meats, seafood, pastry and wine, and places to sit and eat. Walk the aisles once, then settle in for a long lunch.
Go whenLate morning, before the lunch crowd.
Local tip Walk the stalls once before you sit, then share a few plates and a glass of wine. The counters make it easy to try small amounts.
Dinner
A cheese course and a glass of red
The French end a meal with cheese, and Lyon has its own small, soft one called Saint-Marcellin. Choose a plate of three, with a glass of Côtes du Rhône, the red wine from the valley south of the city.
Local tip Ask for the cheese before dessert, as the locals do.
A striking glass and steel museum of science and cultures at the point where the Saône meets the Rhône. Walk the pathway down to the water after your visit. Check ahead for its closing day.
Go whenAfternoon, then a walk to the water.
Local tip Go outside and look at the building from the path along the river. The shape is as interesting as the rooms.
If it rains. The market hall and the Confluences museum are indoors, so keep those and skip the river walk. A long lunch is a good answer to rain.
Day 5. The silk slope and the big park
3 stops · 6.8 km
The hill of the silk weavers in the morning, then a long green afternoon in the city’s biggest park. The easiest ending of the trip.
Travel from Musée des ConfluencesAbout 13 min by car or transit4.3 km
Where Day 4 ended.
1
MorningWorth the time
Croix-Rousse slope
The steep hill of the silk weavers, with tall buildings made for the looms and passages down the slope to the river. Wander the lanes and look for the traboules, and check ahead for which doors are open.
Go whenMorning, when the market and the cafes are waking up.
Local tip Take the metro up the hill and walk down through the lanes. Check ahead for which traboules are open, because doors change.
Order again the dish you liked best this week, and finish with a cheese course or a praline tart. No hurry on the last night.
Local tip Book ahead for a table on your last evening.
If it rains. Keep the amphitheatre short and the lanes of the slope for a dry spell. If it pours all day, move the park to another day and spend this one on a long lunch.
Departure day
After the last day. Lyon is a rail city, so the morning of departure is usually simple.Details
Check-out
Many hotels will keep your bags for a few hours after check-out, which leaves room for one more market stroll or a last pastry. Ask when you book.
To the station
Part-Dieu is on the metro and on the tram line from the airport, and Perrache is a short walk from Place Bellecour. Pick the station named on your ticket, because the two are on opposite sides of the rivers.
A last bite
Buy a little to take home from the covered market hall: a dry sausage, a cheese wrapped for travel or a box of pink praline sweets. Check the rules for food if you are flying to another country.
If you have a few hours
Stay near the Saône: a slow coffee on the quay, one more look at the hill, then go.
Questions people ask
When is the best time to visit Lyon?
By average weather from 2021 to 2025, April to October are the most comfortable months for walking around Lyon. This plan is built for late September, which is one of the best months. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
How many days does this plan cover?
It covers 5 days in Lyon, planned for late September. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.
Who is this plan for?
It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.
Is anything on this plan booked?
No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.
Can I plan my own days like this?
Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.
Can I change this plan?
Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.
How much walking is there?
Each day has about 0.4 to 4.0 kilometers between its stops, and 8.7 kilometers in all across 5 days. A short hop is a walk and a longer one a ride. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.