2-Day Day of the Dead Oaxaca Itinerary

Arrival day

Before Day 1. The festival is on 1 and 2 November, and Day 1 here is 30 October. Book early, because the city fills up.Details

Dates and booking: Day of the Dead falls on 1 and 2 November each year, with the build-up in the last days of October. Day 3 is the day for children and the first night of vigils, and Day 4 is the day for adults. Hotels sell out early, so book early and check ahead.
Being a good guest: Ask before any photo. Never photograph a grieving person or an altar without permission. No flash. Do not step on graves. Do not wear a costume that mocks the dead; face paint as a tribute is common, so be thoughtful. Stand back, stay quiet and remember you are a guest at a family vigil, not at a show.
At the cemeteries: Do not touch the offerings, because the food and drink are for the dead. Accept what a family offers with thanks, and take nothing from a grave. Nights are long and cool, so bring a layer. Keep phones close, go with others and use a known ride home.
First evening: Walk the old center once, look at the markets from the outside and eat something simple. Day 1 is a gentle start, and the nights ahead are long. The valley sits high up, so drink water and go slowly on the first day.

Day 1. The Zocalo and the old center and The Panteon General and the east side of the city

3 stops · 2.0 km

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1
AfternoonA place of grief
Panteon General
The main cemetery of the city, where families clean and decorate the graves with marigolds, candles and food, sometimes with a band playing, and sit with their dead through the day and evening. Sand tapestries may be laid here. It is a place of grief, so stand back, stay quiet and ask before any photo. Check ahead for the day.
Go when Afternoon of 2 November, with a few quiet hours. Check ahead.
Local tip Stand back, stay quiet and ask before any photo. Never photograph a grieving person or an altar without permission, and never use a flash. Do not step on graves or touch the offerings.
About 17 min walk1.4 km
2
EveningCheck with your hotel
The Zocalo
The shaded main square of the old city, with tall trees and arcades of cafes. In the evenings of these days, comparsas, the neighborhood parades with brass bands and people in costume and face paint, often pass through the center. Routes and times change each year, so ask at your hotel.
Go when Evening, when comparsas may pass. Ask at your hotel for routes.
Local tip Stand to the side and let the bands pass. Ask before you photograph a person in costume, and keep your phone close in the crowd.
Lunch
Quesillo and memelas
Oaxaca's stringy white cheese pulled into ribbons and melted on a memela, a thick griddled corn cake spread with beans and a hot sauce. A simple lunch from the stalls around the markets.
Local tip Tell the staff about any dairy allergy first. Ask for the sauce on the side if you do not like heat.
About 7 min walk0.6 km
3
EveningWorth the time
Church of Santo Domingo de Guzman
A grand stone church whose interior is covered in gold leaf, one of the great churches of Mexico. It is a place of prayer, so dress modestly, keep quiet and ask before any photo.
Go when Evening, when the gold glows in the low light.
Local tip It is a working church, so keep your voice low and ask before any photo. Services may be on, so stay at the back and step aside.
Photo: DavidConFran, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
Dinner
A tlayuda supper
A very large, thin, crisp corn tortilla spread with bean paste, cheese, cabbage and grilled meat or vegetables, folded over and eaten with the hands. A Oaxacan street supper.
Local tip It is big, so share one. Tell the staff about any allergy first, since meats are grilled together.

If it rains. Church of Santo Domingo de Guzman is covered, so keep it. Move Panteon General and The Zocalo to a dry day if you can.

Day 2. Monte Alban, Atzompa and the north and The markets

3 stops · 7.8 km

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1
MorningGo early
Mercado de Abastos
The big wholesale market west of the center, where families buy marigolds, cockscomb flowers, candles, copal, fruit and bread for their altars. It is crowded and loud on this day, so keep your bag in front of you and ask before you photograph a stall.
Go when Morning, as early as you can, before the crowd peaks.
Local tip The aisles are crowded and narrow, so keep your bag in front of you. Ask before you photograph a seller. Buy a bunch of marigolds, which you can take to your hotel.
About 12 min by car or transit3.9 km
2
MorningWorth the time
Monte Alban
The ancient Zapotec city on a flattened hilltop above Oaxaca, with a great plaza, stepped platforms and a wide view over the valley. Go early, while the stone is cool and the day is quiet, and check ahead for any change in access on the festival days.
Go when Morning, as early as you can, before the heat and the buses.
Local tip Bring water, a hat and good shoes, because there is little shade and the steps are steep. The valley is high, so go slowly. Check ahead for access on the festival days.
Photo: nsaum75 !Dígame¡ ‎, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
Lunch
A comedor lunch
A plain family lunch of rice, black beans, a grilled meat or squash blossoms, hot tortillas and a cold fruit water, served at a village comedor, a small family table.
Local tip Ask about the day's dish and tell the staff about any allergy. Drink bottled or purified water.
About 12 min by car or transit3.9 km
3
EveningA family vigil
Santa Cruz Xoxocotlan
A village on the south edge of the valley whose old cemetery is one of the best known for the night vigil on 1 November, when families sit beside the graves of their dead. It is very busy, and you are a guest at a family vigil, so stand back, stay quiet and ask before any photo. Check ahead which night is busiest.
Go when Evening of 1 November, and stay a while. Check ahead which night is busiest.
Local tip Stand back, stay quiet and ask before any photo. Never use a flash and never photograph a grieving person. Do not step on graves, and bring a layer for the cold night.
Photo: El Ágora on Wikimedia Commons
Dinner
Atole and a warm snack at the vigil
Atole, a warm drink of maize and sugar, is often shared on a cold night, along with tamales and sweet breads. Families and small stalls near the cemetery may offer them. Accept with thanks.
Local tip Accept anything offered with thanks. Keep your voice low and do not touch the offerings, which are for the dead.

If it rains. Everything today is outdoors, so swap this day with a drier one if you can.

Departure day

After the last day. The city is tired and tender after the vigils, and roads may still be busy on the morning after.Details

The morning after: Streets are usually quiet and the marigold petals are still on the pavement. Many families visit the cemeteries again, so give them space and keep your voice low. A late start and a slow breakfast suit the day.
To the airport: The airport is on the south edge of the valley, and a taxi or a shared shuttle is the usual way. Roads can be busy around the festival, so leave more time than you think. Fix the ride the evening before.
If you have a few hours: Leave the bag at the hotel, walk the old center once more and buy a loaf of bread or a bar of chocolate to carry home. Keep the last morning free of anything with a fixed start.

Questions people ask

When is the best time to visit Oaxaca?

By average weather from 2021 to 2025, January to February and October to December are the most comfortable months for walking around Oaxaca. This plan is built for late October, which is one of the best months. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.

How many days does this plan cover?

It covers 2 days in Oaxaca, planned for late October. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.

Who is this plan for?

It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.

Is anything on this plan booked?

No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.

Can I plan my own days like this?

Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.

Can I change this plan?

Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.

How much walking is there?

Each day has about 2.0 to 7.8 kilometers between its stops, and 9.8 kilometers in all across 2 days. A short hop is a walk and a longer one a ride. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.