4 days of pasta and porticoes in Bologna

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. 1
   MorningWorth the time, check ahead

   Two Towers

   Two brick towers that lean over the crossroads at the edge of the old center. The taller one, the Asinelli, can be climbed by nearly five hundred steps for a view over the red roofs. Check ahead, as entry is timed and there is a limit to how many can go up.

   Go when First thing in the morning, when the climb is cool and the light is low over the roofs.

   Local tip The climb on the taller tower is steep and the stairs are narrow. Book a time ahead, and travel light.

   

   About 2 min walk0.2 km
2. 2
   MiddayPick your rooms

   Museo della Storia di Bologna

   A modern museum in a Renaissance palace that tells the story of the city, from its Etruscan beginnings to today, with films, objects and maps. A good way to spend a slow midday, and to know whose faces are on the statues you pass.

   Go when Midday, when you want somewhere calm and a seat to rest.

   Local tip You do not have to see everything. Pick a few rooms and let the rest go, so you arrive at lunch with an appetite.

   

3. Lunch

   Tortellini in brodo

   Tiny rings of pasta filled with pork, ham and Parmigiano Reggiano, served floating in a clear, golden broth. It is the dish Bolognese families make for holidays, and a comfort on a cool October day.

   Local tip Ask for it the traditional way, in brodo, and eat it hot with a spoon.

   

   Places to try4 near Museo della Storia di Bologna‹›

   • Bolognese, trattoria

     Trattoria Battibecco

     A trattoria on Via Battibecco, in the old center, serving fresh pasta and tortellini in broth.

     0.4 km from Museo della Storia di Bologna
   • Osteria, Emilian

     Osteria Broccaindosso

     An osteria on Via Broccaindosso, near the university quarter, serving fresh pasta and local dishes.

     0.6 km from Museo della Storia di Bologna
   • Bolognese, restaurant

     Vicolo Colombina

     A restaurant in a small lane near the Two Towers, serving traditional pasta dishes.

     0.4 km from Museo della Storia di Bologna
   • Bolognese, trattoria

     Teresina

     A restaurant on Via Oberdan serving Bolognese pasta dishes, a few minutes from the museum.

     0.3 km from Museo della Storia di Bologna

   Hours change, so check before you go.

   About 2 min walk0.1 km
4. 3
   AfternoonWorth the time

   Piazza Santo Stefano

   A long, gently curved square lined with arcades, and a cluster of linked old churches known as the Seven Churches. Step inside for the quiet courtyards and the dim, ancient chapels. One of the most peaceful places in the city.

   Go when Late afternoon, when the stone turns golden and the square is quiet.

   Local tip The churches are linked by small courtyards and a cloister, so wander slowly and look for the quiet corner. Check ahead for visiting times.

   

   About 13 min walk1.0 km
5. 4
   EveningWorth a short stop

   Giardini Margherita

   The city’s big public park, a short walk south of the old center, with shady paths, lawns and a pond. A good place to walk off a long lunch, or to sit with a gelato and watch Bolognese families out for the evening.

   Go when Early evening (about 6:31 PM), when families walk the paths and the light is soft through the trees.

   Local tip Bring a gelato or a pastry, find a bench by the pond and do very little. It is the city’s living room.

   

6. Dinner

   Lasagne verdi

   Layers of spinach-green pasta, ragù and creamy besciamella, baked until the top is gold. This is the original Bolognese lasagne, lighter and more delicate than the thick versions elsewhere.

   Local tip Book ahead for a cozy table, and order the lasagne as a first course, with a roast to follow.

   

   Places to try4 near Giardini Margherita‹›

   • Bolognese, trattoria

     Trattoria del Rosso

     A trattoria on Via Augusto Righi, south of the center, serving classic baked pasta dishes.

     1.8 km from Giardini Margherita
   • Bolognese, trattoria

     Trattoria Tony

     A trattoria on Via Rialto, in the old center, serving homestyle Bolognese food.

     1.9 km from Giardini Margherita
   • Bolognese, trattoria

     Dal Biassanot

     A trattoria on Via Piella serving regional dishes, a walk from the old center.

     1.8 km from Giardini Margherita
   • Wine bar, restaurant

     Cantina Bentivoglio

     A wine bar and restaurant on Via Mascarella, in the university quarter, with Emilian dishes.

     1.7 km from Giardini Margherita

   Hours change, so check before you go.

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   Basilica of San Petronio

   The huge brick basilica on the great square, with a marble front that was never finished. Inside, look for the long brass line set in the floor, a sundial laid down in the seventeenth century. Check ahead for visiting times and dress rules.

   Go when Late morning, when the light comes in through the high windows and the nave is quiet.

   Local tip Look down for the brass line in the floor, a sundial laid in the seventeenth century. Check ahead for visiting times and dress rules.

   

   About 2 min walk0.1 km
2. 2
   MiddayWorth the time, come hungry

   Quadrilatero market streets

   The knot of narrow lanes just behind the square, where food has been sold for centuries. Window displays of mortadella, hanging hams, wheels of cheese and fresh pasta. Wander first, then choose where to sit for a long lunch.

   Go when Late morning to early afternoon, when the shops are open and the lanes smell of cheese and bread.

   Local tip Walk the whole maze once before you buy or sit. Ask for a taste of mortadella, and let a shop pack a few things for tomorrow.

3. Lunch

   Mortadella, tigelle and crescentine

   Mortadella is Bologna’s own: silky pink slices, thin enough to see through. Eat it with warm tigelle, the small round breads of the hills, split and filled with cured meats, soft cheese or a spread of lard and herbs. Crescentine are the fried, puffy cousins.

   Local tip Order a mixed board to share, and ask for the tigelle straight from the iron.

   

   Places to try3 near Quadrilatero market streets‹›

   • Deli, cured meats

     Salumeria Simoni

     A deli on Via Drapperie in the market streets, selling mortadella, hams and cheeses.

     under 0.1 km from Quadrilatero market streets
   • Osteria, Emilian

     Osteria dell'Orsa

     An osteria on Via Mentana, north of the market streets, serving pasta and Emilian dishes.

     0.4 km from Quadrilatero market streets
   • Wine bar

     Osteria del Sole

     A wine-only osteria in a lane off the market streets where you bring your own food.

     under 0.1 km from Quadrilatero market streets

   Hours change, so check before you go.

   About 2 min walk0.2 km
4. 3
   AfternoonWorth the time

   Archiginnasio of Bologna

   The first permanent home of the old university, a long arcaded palace with its walls and ceilings covered in painted coats of arms. Climb up to the Anatomical Theatre, a small hall carved entirely of wood where students once watched dissections.

   Go when Afternoon, when the city is at its sleepiest and the old rooms are calm.

   Local tip The Anatomical Theatre is small, so do not rush it. Look up at the carved wooden figures, and check ahead for visiting times.

   

   About 3 min walk0.2 km
5. 4
   EveningTen minutes is enough

   Fountain of Neptune

   A grand bronze sea god on a marble fountain, made in the sixteenth century and loved by Bolognese, who call it the Giant. Lit at night, it makes a fine last stop before dinner.

   Go when After dark, when the bronze catches the lamplight and the square is calm.

   Local tip Walk all the way around the statue and look at the small figures on the base. It is a quick stop, then on to dinner.

   

6. Dinner

   Tagliatelle al ragù

   The dish the city is known for: long ribbons of fresh egg pasta in a slow, meaty ragù cooked for hours. It is never served on spaghetti here. Order it as a first course, and then see if you still have room.

   Local tip A table with a pasta maker in the window is a good sign. Share a side of greens and a glass of the local sparkling white.

   

   Places to try2 near Fountain of Neptune‹›

   • Bolognese, trattoria

     Trattoria Anna Maria

     A trattoria on Via Belle Arti, north of Piazza Maggiore, serving handmade pasta.

     0.7 km from Fountain of Neptune
   • Bolognese, trattoria

     Da Cesari

     A traditional restaurant on Via de' Carbonesi, close to Piazza Maggiore, serving regional dishes.

     0.3 km from Fountain of Neptune

   Hours change, so check before you go.

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. Travel from Fountain of NeptuneAbout 12 min by car or transit3.9 km

   Where Day 2 ended.
2. 1
   MorningWorth the time, wear good shoes

   Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca

   A white sanctuary on a hilltop outside the city, reached by the Portico di San Luca, an arcade of 666 arches nearly four kilometers long. The walk is gently uphill through the trees, and the view from the top spreads across the rooftops. Check ahead for a way back down.

   Go when Early morning, when the portico is cool and quiet and you have the climb to yourself.

   Local tip The walk up is the point, so go slowly. Wear sturdy shoes, bring water, and check ahead for a bus or taxi for the way down.

   

   About 10 min by car5.1 km
3. 2
   MiddayWorth the time, come hungry

   Mercato delle Erbe

   The city’s covered food market, with stalls of vegetables, cheese, cured meats and fresh pasta, and counters where you can eat on the spot. A cheerful, noisy place and the easiest way to taste a lot of Bologna at once.

   Go when Midday, when the stalls are full and the counters are busy.

   Local tip Walk the aisles first, then eat standing at a counter. Buy a wedge of Parmigiano Reggiano to take home if you can.

4. Lunch

   Parmigiano Reggiano and a market lunch

   Parmigiano Reggiano comes in many ages, from young and creamy to crumbly and sharp, sold in rough chunks. Eat a few shards with cured ham and bread from the market stalls, and sit at a counter with a glass of local red.

   Local tip Ask the vendor for two ages side by side, so you can taste how it changes. Eat it with a little honey or balsamic vinegar.

   Places to try3 near Mercato delle Erbe‹›

   • Cured meats, wine bar

     La Prosciutteria

     A cured meat and cheese bar in the old center, serving boards with wine.

     0.6 km from Mercato delle Erbe
   • Wine bar, deli

     Drogheria della Rosa

     A wine bar and deli on Via Cartoleria, a walk from the market, serving cheese and cured meat plates.

     1.1 km from Mercato delle Erbe
   • Osteria, Emilian

     Osteria Bottega

     An osteria on Via Santa Caterina, west of the center, serving Emilian cheeses, cured meats and pasta.

     0.7 km from Mercato delle Erbe

   Hours change, so check before you go.

   About 11 min walk0.9 km
5. 3
   AfternoonWorth the time

   Basilica of San Domenico

   A calm church with the tomb of Saint Dominic, carved in marble, and a small kneeling angel on it by the young Michelangelo. The square outside is quiet, and the old arcades around it are good for a slow walk.

   Go when Mid afternoon, when it is quiet and the light comes in soft.

   Local tip Walk to the tomb of Saint Dominic to see the kneeling angel carved by the young Michelangelo. Check ahead for visiting times.

   

   About 6 min walk0.5 km
6. 4
   EveningWorth the time

   Piazza Maggiore

   The heart of the city, a wide stone square framed by the basilica and the medieval town hall, with palaces in warm red brick. Sit on the steps of the basilica as the light fades and the arcades fill with people out for a stroll.

   Go when Early evening, when the arcades light up and the square fills with strollers (about 6:31 PM).

   Local tip Sit on the basilica steps, then walk one slow lap of the square. Duck into the arcades if the weather turns.

   

7. Dinner

   A farewell dinner of tortelloni

   For the last night, order tortelloni, larger cousins of tortellini, stuffed with ricotta and herbs and served in butter and sage. Finish with a glass of the local sparkling white or red wine.

   Local tip Book ahead, eat late like the locals do, and let the waiter suggest the dish of the day.

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. Drive from Piazza MaggioreAbout 47 min by car37.1 km

   Where Day 3 ended.
2. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   Modena Cathedral

   A Romanesque cathedral on the main square of Modena, a short train ride from Bologna, its pale stone front covered in carved scenes. A calm start to a day trip.

   Go when Morning, when the stone front is bright and the square is quiet.

   Local tip A Romanesque cathedral with a front covered in carved scenes. Look at the stone figures over the doors, and check ahead for visiting times.

   

   About 2 min walkunder 0.1 km
3. 2
   MorningWorth a short stop

   Torre della Ghirlandina

   The bell tower beside the cathedral, the symbol of Modena. It leans a little and is best met from the square, looking up.

   Go when Morning, before the square fills.

   Local tip The bell tower beside the cathedral has become the symbol of Modena. Look up from the square, and check ahead if you want to climb it.

   

   About 2 min walk0.2 km
4. 3
   MiddayWorth the time, come hungry

   Mercato Albinelli

   A covered market a few steps from the cathedral, with stalls of fresh pasta, cured meats, cheeses and traditional balsamic vinegar. A good place for a long Modena lunch.

   Go when Late morning, when the stalls are busy and the vendors are in full voice.

   Local tip Look for balsamic vinegar made the traditional way, cured meats and local cheeses. Ask for a taste before you buy.

   About 6 min walk0.5 km
5. 4
   AfternoonWorth a short stop

   Ducal Palace of Modena

   A grand palace of the old rulers of Modena, now a military academy, with a long Baroque front. Stroll the arcades around it after lunch.

   Go when Afternoon, after a long lunch.

   Local tip The palace of the old rulers of Modena is now a military academy. Stand in the square outside it, and check ahead if you want a guided visit.