4 days in Peru: Arequipa and the Colca Canyon

A short, gentle first day. An arcaded square under a volcano, a great cathedral, a convent that is a town in itself, and the best view of the volcano at sunset.

1. Breakfast

   Bread with cheese and fresh juice

   A roll of the local bread with soft cheese and a glass of fresh fruit juice, a light start at altitude.

   Local tip Go lightly on your first morning, and drink plenty of water.
2. 1
   Morning

   Plaza de Armas

   The main square of Arequipa, ringed by arcades of pale volcanic stone with the cathedral along one side and the volcano Misti beyond. Sit, drink water and let your body settle.

   Go when Morning, with a slow start.

   Local tip Sit on a bench under the arcades and look up at Misti. Arequipa is already high, so a gentle first hour is best.

   

   About 2 min walkunder 0.1 km
3. 2
   MiddayIndoor

   Arequipa Cathedral

   A great basilica on the square, built of the same pale stone, with a long facade and a roomy interior. Quiet, cool and a good rest from the sun and the thin air.

   Go when Midday, as a rest from the sun.

   Local tip Look at the long facade from the square first, then go in. Check ahead on opening, and respect any service in progress.

   

4. Lunch

   Rocoto relleno

   A hot red pepper stuffed with spiced beef, cheese and nuts, baked and served with a slice of potato gratin. The city's best known dish.

   Local tip It can be spicy, so ask for a milder one if you prefer.

   About 4 min walk0.3 km
5. 3
   Afternoon

   Santa Catalina Monastery

   A walled convent that is almost a small town, with painted cloisters, narrow lanes in blue and red, and gardens. Walk it slowly and give it a couple of hours.

   Go when Afternoon, with a couple of unhurried hours.

   Local tip The lanes are named like streets, and the blue ones are the most photographed. Wear shoes with grip, since the stone can be slippery, and check ahead on evening visits.

   

   About 12 min walk1.0 km
6. 4
   Evening

   Yanahuara

   A neighborhood west of the center with a viewpoint of arches carved in volcanic stone, and the cone of Misti rising behind the city. The place for the end of the day, when the light turns gold.

   Go when Evening, for the light on the volcano.

   Local tip The arches frame the view of Misti. It is a short ride or a gentle walk from the center, and the church on the small plaza is worth a look.

   

7. Dinner

   Queso helado

   A sweet, creamy frozen dessert of milk and cinnamon, called cheese ice cream though it has no cheese. A light end to the first day.

   Local tip Share one, since a portion can be rich.

A second day around Arequipa, still easy. A church with a carved facade, a museum with a story told with care, and a stone mill in green fields outside the city.

1. Breakfast

   Bread and coffee

   Fresh bread with butter and jam, and a strong cup of local coffee, before the day's churches and museum.

   Local tip Try the bread with the three points, a speciality of the region.
2. 1
   Morning

   Church of the Society of Jesus

   A Jesuit church near the square with a richly carved stone facade that blends European forms with local shapes and plants. A short, rewarding visit.

   Go when Morning, when the stone is cool.

   Local tip Look at the carved doorway from across the street, then go inside. Check ahead on opening, since it is also a place of worship.

   

   About 2 min walk0.1 km
3. 2
   Midday

   Andean Sanctuaries Museum

   A museum devoted to the Inca practice of offering young people on mountain tops, built around Juanita, a girl found frozen on a volcano in the 1990s. Take it respectfully, and check ahead on what is on show.

   Go when Midday, as a quiet indoor hour.

   Local tip The story is serious and told with care, so take it slowly. Check ahead on what is on show, since displays change.

   

4. Lunch

   Adobo with bread

   Pork stewed in chicha and spices, served with fresh bread. A hearty dish of the region, traditionally a weekend favorite.

   Local tip It is rich, so eat it before an easy afternoon.

   About 19 min by car or transit7.5 km
5. 3
   Afternoon

   Sabandía Mill

   An old stone mill beside a stream in green fields, a short ride from the city center. A quiet, shady stop and a gentle contrast to the stone of the old town.

   Go when Afternoon, in the shade of the trees.

   Local tip It sits in the countryside outside the city, so go by taxi or on a tour. A calm place to sit with water, and a gentle rest from the thin air.

6. Dinner

   Chupe de camarones

   A creamy chowder of river shrimp, potatoes, corn, cheese and an egg, one of the city's classic soups.

   Local tip It is filling, so share it and take your time.

The climb. A long drive over a high pass with volcanoes in view, then a market town in the valley and a village with a church and terraced fields. A quiet night at a height you have had days to prepare for.

1. Drive from Sabandía MillAbout 1 h 28 min by car92.2 km

   Where Day 2 ended.
2. Breakfast

   Quinoa porridge and bread

   A warm quinoa porridge with cinnamon and sugar, fresh bread and tea, a gentle start before the long road.

   Local tip Drink water and herbal tea on the drive, since the air is dry.
3. 1
   Midday

   Chivay

   The main town of the Colca valley, with a market, plain streets and the mountains close on every side. A base for the night and a good place to rest after the long road. Rest, drink water and go slowly.

   Go when Midday, then rest.

   Local tip You are much higher than in Arequipa now, so rest on arrival, drink water and eat lightly. Hot springs near town are a classic way to ease tired legs, so check ahead on them.

   

4. Lunch

   Soup and fresh trout

   A warm vegetable and quinoa soup, then fresh trout from the highland streams with potatoes. Plain and light for high ground.

   Local tip Eat lightly and avoid heavy meals at height.

   About 17 min by car or transit6.5 km
5. 2
   Afternoon

   Yanque

   A village in the valley with an old stone church and fields in terraces that climb the slopes, many of them centuries old. A short walk, not a long one, because you are high up now.

   Go when Afternoon, for a slow walk.

   Local tip Walk to the church and along the nearest terraces, then stop. The air is thin, so a short walk is plenty, and the light is lovely late in the day.

   

6. Dinner

   Alpaca with potatoes

   Grilled alpaca, a lean meat of the Andes, with golden potatoes and a spoon of spicy sauce.

   Local tip Ask for the sauce on the side, and drink muña tea afterward, a mint-like herb many locals use at height.

An early start. A viewpoint on the edge of one of the deepest canyons in the world, where condors may rise on the morning air, then a village on the way back and the long road to Arequipa.

1. Drive from YanqueAbout 39 min by car26.9 km

   Where Day 3 ended.
2. Breakfast

   A packed breakfast

   A roll, a boiled egg and fruit, packed to eat at the viewpoint, with tea in a flask.

   Local tip Ask for it the night before, because the start is before dawn.
3. 1
   MorningBest early

   Cruz del Cóndor

   A viewpoint on the canyon edge, where Andean condors may glide past on the warming air in the morning. You may see none, so go for the drop and the silence, and be ready to wait.

   Go when Morning, soon after sunrise.

   Local tip Condors ride the warm air as it rises, so late morning is often quieter. Stay behind the barrier, keep your voice low and give it time. Dress warmly, since the edge is cold and windy.

   About 31 min by car or transit15.1 km
4. 2
   Midday

   Maca

   A village on the canyon road, with a church and terraced slopes. A quiet stop on the way back and a last look at the valley before the long road home.

   Go when Midday, on the way back.

   Local tip A small stop, so linger for a few minutes. The road is rough in places and the walk is short, so take it easy at this height.

   

5. Lunch

   Cheese, bread and fruit

   Local cheese, fresh bread and fruit, eaten by the road with the terraces in view.

   Local tip Wash fruit before eating it, and carry water for the long drive.

6. Dinner

   A warm bowl of soup

   A hot bowl of chicken or vegetable soup in Arequipa, simple and warming after the long road.

   Local tip Keep your last dinner light, since the day has been long.