HappeningCooler on the coast, with the hills cooler still and often misty. Cold winds from the north, called nortes, can bring a wet, windy day, so keep a spare one.
From average weather, 2021 to 2025: days that are warm but not hot, with few rainy days, score highest. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
Arrival day
Before Day 1. Veracruz is your base for the first two nights, then you climb to the hills for the last two.Details
Getting here
Fly into Veracruz, whose airport is a short ride from the old centre, or take a long daytime bus or drive from Mexico City. Book the ride to your door ahead, and plan to land in daylight if you can.
Heat and humidity
The coast is hot and humid for much of the year, so plan the walks for early morning and late afternoon, carry water, and keep the indoor stops for the middle of the day. Light cotton clothes dry fastest.
Storms and winds
The Atlantic hurricane season runs from June to November, and cold northerly winds called nortes can blow in from autumn to early spring. Check the forecast before each day, and keep a spare day if you can.
Evenings
The old zocalo is the heart of the city after dark, so keep your first night free to sit under the arcades and listen. Day 1 starts on the Malecon, so settle in and walk to the water before supper. Spanish is the language of the streets, and a few words go a long way.
How much walking? On foot, about 0.1 to 1.6 kilometers a day, and 366.7 kilometers by car in all across 6 days. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.
Day 1. The seafront south of Veracruz and Veracruz old centre and harbour
3 stops · 10.5 km by car
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
1
Morning
Isla de Sacrificios
A small island in the sea off Veracruz, in a protected reef park, reached by boat from the harbour area. A place for a walk, a swim and the view of the city skyline from the water, with the island dating back to the days before the Spanish.
Go whenMorning, when the sea is calmest.
Local tip Boats cannot run in strong wind, so check the forecast and ask at the harbour a day ahead. Bring a hat, water and a swimsuit.
A large aquarium on the seafront south of the city centre, with tanks of the sea life of the Gulf of Mexico and beyond. A cool indoor stop for the hottest hours of the day.
Go whenMidday, as an indoor, cool stop.
Local tip Go through slowly and watch the large tanks, which are quiet places to rest from the heat. It is a good choice on a wet or very hot day.
Lunch
A seafood cocktail
A cold cup of shrimp or octopus in a tomato and lime broth with avocado, a light meal for a hot day.
Local tip Order a cold drink with it and eat in the shade.
About 20 min by car or transit7.9 km
3
Afternoon
Boca del Río
A seafood town beside the mouth of the Jamapa river, just south of Veracruz, known for its river and sea fish and its views over the water. Walk by the river, and eat late, the way the locals do.
Go whenLate afternoon, and a late lunch.
Local tip Walk beside the river, then sit down for seafood. Ask what came in from the sea or river that day, and eat late like the locals.
Fish and shrimp from the river and the sea, grilled or in garlic, with rice and a salad, eaten at a table with a breeze.
Local tip Ask what came in today, and eat when the locals do, which is late.
If it rains. Gran Acuario de Veracruz is covered, so keep it. Move Isla de Sacrificios and Boca del Río to a dry day if you can.
Day 2. Veracruz old centre and harbour
3 stops · 1.0 km on foot, 10.7 km by car
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
Travel from Boca del RíoAbout 25 min by car or transit10.7 km
Where Day 1 ended.
1
Morning
Malecon of Veracruz
The long waterfront promenade beside the harbour of Veracruz, with ships coming and going and a sea breeze on a good morning. Stroll it early, while it is cooler, and watch the city wake up.
Go whenMorning, while it is cool, or near sunset (about 6:07 PM).
Local tip Walk it from the cathedral end toward the water and stop at a bench when a ship passes. On a day of strong wind from the north, keep your hat in your hand.
The cathedral on the main square of Veracruz, a white building with a dome covered in tiles and a tall bell tower. Step in out of the heat. It is a working church, so stay quiet during services.
Go whenMidday, out of the heat.
Local tip It is a working church, so cover your shoulders and stay quiet during services. Look up at the tiled dome from the square before you go in.
Fish cooked the way the port does it, in a sauce of tomato, olives and capers, with rice. A dish that has the name of the city.
Local tip Ask for the fish a la veracruzana, and share a plate of fried plantain on the side.
About 7 min walk0.6 km
3
Afternoon
Baluarte de Santiago
The one bastion of the old city wall of Veracruz that still stands, a stone fort from the 17th century built to guard the port against pirates. Walk its ramparts and look for the small museum rooms inside.
Go whenLate afternoon, when the stone has cooled.
Local tip Walk the ramparts and look out over the roofs to imagine the old wall around the city. Bring water, since there is little shade.
A bowl of soupy rice with seafood, called arroz a la tumbada, or a stew of fish and shrimp, eaten with warm tortillas.
Local tip Eat it hot with a squeeze of lime, and save room for the evening in the square.
If it rains. Veracruz Cathedral is covered, so keep it. Move Malecon of Veracruz and Baluarte de Santiago to a dry day if you can.
Day 3. Veracruz old centre and harbour, part 2
2 stops · 1.6 km on foot
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
1
MorningBest early
San Juan de Ulúa
A fortress on a small island at the mouth of the harbour, started by the Spanish in the 16th century and added to for hundreds of years. It later served as a prison. The stone is hot by midday, so go early and bring a hat.
Go whenMorning, before the sun is high.
Local tip Walk the stone passages and the open ramparts, and read the signs about its years as a prison. Bring a hat and water, and check ahead on how to reach it.
The main square of Veracruz, also called the Plaza de Armas, with the cathedral on one side and the arcades of the old city hall on another. In the evening it fills with families, café tables and musicians playing son jarocho, marimba and danzón. This is the point of the day.
Go whenEvening, from just before sunset (about 6:07 PM) until late.
Local tip Take a table under the arcades and order a coffee with hot milk poured at the table. Danzón is danced on certain evenings, so check ahead, and keep an eye on your bag in the crowd.
If it rains. Everything today is outdoors, so swap this day with a drier one if you can.
Day 4. La Antigua and Zempoala, north of Veracruz and Coatepec and the coffee hills
4 stops · 326.5 km by carAbout 4 h 13 min driving
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
Travel from Zocalo of VeracruzAbout 37 min by car or transit23.2 km
Where Day 3 ended.
1
Morning
La Antigua
A small town on a river north of Veracruz, with a place in the early years of the Spanish on this coast. Old stone ruins, a church by the water and quiet streets make it a gentle morning stop on the way to Zempoala.
Go whenMorning, then a long lunch by the river.
Local tip Walk the quiet streets to the old stone ruins and the river bank. Check ahead on the road, and pair it with Zempoala for one day north of the city.
About 32 min by car or transit16.8 km
2
Morning
Zempoala
The ruins of a Totonac city north of Veracruz, with rounded stone platforms and temples on a wide grassy plain. It is where Hernán Cortés met the Totonac people on his march inland. Check the road and plan a half day.
Go whenMorning, before the heat builds.
Local tip There is almost no shade on the site, so bring a hat and water. Check ahead on the opening and on how the road is, and ask about local guides at the entrance.
About 1 h 50 min by car121.2 km
3
Midday
Tlacotalpan
A river town on the Papaloapan, south of Veracruz, a World Heritage Site for its colonnaded houses painted in bright colours, its plazas and its river. It is known for son jarocho and for the feast of the Candelaria. A long day trip by road, so check the way and the distance before you go.
Go whenMorning, then a long afternoon on the plaza.
Local tip Ask how the road is before you set out, and plan to be back in daylight. The town is known for son jarocho, so ask where musicians play in the evening.
The parish church of Coatepec, on the main plaza, a white church with a tall tower. Step in for a few minutes, and then walk the cobbled streets around it, past the small shops that sell coffee.
Go whenAfternoon, outside the hours of services.
Local tip It is a working church, so stay quiet and cover your shoulders. Then wander the streets behind it, where small shops sell coffee beans.
If it rains. Parish Church of San Jerónimo is covered, so keep it. Move La Antigua, Zempoala and Tlacotalpan to a dry day if you can.
Day 5. Xalapa and Coatepec and the coffee hills
3 stops · 0.1 km on foot, 9.5 km by car
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
1
Midday
Coatepec Plaza
The shaded main plaza of Coatepec, a hill town known across Mexico for its coffee. Sit under the arcades and have a cup. Many estates around town offer visits to see how the coffee is grown and roasted, so ask in town and check ahead.
Go whenMidday, over a coffee.
Local tip Sit under the arcades and ask where the local coffee comes from. If you want to visit an estate, ask in town and check ahead, since many need a booking.
The cathedral of Xalapa, an old stone church in the centre of the city, beside the main park. Walk in for a few minutes of quiet. It is a working church, so stay quiet during services.
Go whenMidday, outside the hours of services.
Local tip A quiet place for a few minutes of rest. It is a working church, so stay quiet and cover your shoulders.
The jalapeño chile takes its name from Xalapa, and the city stuffs its chiles with cheese or meat, then serves them with rice.
Local tip Ask how hot it is before you order, and have a glass of milk or a drink near.
About 2 min walk0.1 km
3
Afternoon
Parque Juárez
A terraced park on the hillside beside the cathedral, with views across the valley. On a clear day you can see far snow-topped peaks. Sit on a bench, watch the town go by and enjoy the cool air.
Go whenLate afternoon, for the views (about 6:07 PM).
Local tip Walk to the edge of the terrace to look across the valley, and bring a light layer. The hills can be misty, which is part of the place.
Soft tamales of fresh corn or with a filling, eaten with a cup of hot chocolate, a good supper when the evening is cool.
Local tip Unwrap the corn husk, and eat only the dough inside.
If it rains. Xalapa Cathedral is covered, so keep it. Move Coatepec Plaza and Parque Juárez to a dry day if you can.
Day 6. Xalapa and Coatepec and the coffee hills, part 2
3 stops · 9.5 km by car
Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.
1
MorningIndoor
Xalapa Museum of Anthropology
A museum of the ancient peoples of Veracruz, set in a long, low building that steps down a garden hillside. Its most famous objects are colossal Olmec stone heads, carved from single blocks of basalt. Give it a slow morning.
Go whenMorning, when the garden is cool.
Local tip Start with the colossal Olmec heads, then walk the halls in order. Allow time for the garden outside, and check ahead on the opening.
A botanical garden on the old road between Xalapa and Coatepec, with paths through cloud forest, ferns and orchids, run by a research institute. Wear shoes with grip and bring a light rain jacket.
Go whenMorning, while the forest is cool and quiet.
Local tip Take the paths slowly and look up into the trees. The ground can be wet and slippery, so wear shoes with grip. Check ahead on the opening.
Lunch
A plate of enchiladas
Rolled tortillas in a red or green sauce with cheese or chicken, a plain and filling lunch near the plaza.
Local tip Ask for the sauce on the side if you are not sure of the heat.
About 14 min by car or transit4.7 km
3
Morning
Macuiltépetl
A wooded hill in the north of Xalapa, kept as a park, with paths up through the trees to a small lookout over the city and the hills. A green and cool place for a morning walk.
Go whenMorning, when the air is fresh.
Local tip A wooded hill in the north of Xalapa with paths and a small lookout. Wear shoes with grip, since the trails can be wet.
If it rains. Xalapa Museum of Anthropology is covered, so keep it. Move Francisco Javier Clavijero Botanical Garden and Macuiltépetl to a dry day if you can.
Departure day
After the last day. Xalapa is a good bus ride from the coast and from Mexico City, so allow a full morning to reach a flight.Details
Getting out
Long distance buses link Xalapa with Veracruz and Mexico City. Book your seat or your ride the day before, and leave extra time, since the road down to the coast can be slow in mist or rain.
Coffee to carry
Whole beans from the hills travel well, and a bag from a local roaster or a cooperative makes a good gift. Ask to have it sealed, and keep it in your hand luggage so it stays cool.
If you have a few hours
Walk once more around the park beside the cathedral in Xalapa, or sit under the arcades in Coatepec with a last coffee before the road.
Questions people ask
When is the best time to visit Veracruz?
By average weather from 2021 to 2025, January to March and November to December are the most comfortable months for walking around Veracruz. This plan is built for january to March, which is one of the best months. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
How many days does this plan cover?
It covers 6 days in Veracruz, planned for january to March. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.
Who is this plan for?
It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.
Is anything on this plan booked?
No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.
Can I plan my own days like this?
Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.
Can I change this plan?
Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.
How much walking is there?
On foot, about 0.1 to 1.6 kilometers a day, and 366.7 kilometers by car in all across 6 days. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.