Ten days in Chilean Patagonia: Punta Arenas and the strait, Puerto Natales and the Milodon Cave, five days in Torres del Paine as day trips, a day of glaciers by boat, and the road back south. Big days, one headline each, and room to change plans when the weather says so.
10 daysAnyoneLate January30 places
Copy this plan to your own trips, then change anything you like.
Before Day 1. Punta Arenas is a calm start, so use the first hours to get used to the cold, the wind and the long light.Details
Flying in
Most travelers reach Punta Arenas by way of Santiago. The airport sits outside the city, and buses and taxis run into the center. Puerto Natales has a small airport of its own, but its flights change, so check ahead.
Getting around
This trip works best with a rental car for the long road north and the park days, or with a driver and regional buses between the towns. Roads are mostly paved to the park and gravel inside it. Check road and gate news before each park day.
Wind and layers
The wind is strong and the weather can change within the hour. Pack a windproof shell, warm layers, a hat and gloves even in summer, and sun protection for the long light.
Park rules
Entry to Torres del Paine, trail permits and the rules for boats and tours change from season to season. Check ahead before you go, and keep a spare day in the plan for weather. Day 1 is an easy walk around Punta Arenas, so rest after the flight.
Day 1. Punta Arenas, the city on the strait
4 stops · 3.4 km
A gentle start on foot. The city grew up as a port on the Strait of Magellan, and the main square, the old cemetery and a hill with a view tell that story in a few hours.
1
MorningWorth the time
Plaza Muñoz Gamero
The leafy main square of Punta Arenas, with a monument to Magellan at its center. Sit for a while and look at the grand houses around it, built in the days of the wool and shipping fortunes.
Go whenMorning, when the square is calm and the light is low.
Local tip Visitors rub the toe of the figure at the foot of the monument, a custom said to mean you will come back. Look at the old mansions around the square too.
About 17 min walk1.3 km
2
MiddayWorth the time
Cemetery of Punta Arenas
A calm and unusual cemetery, with clipped cypress hedges forming long green walls and the graves of pioneers and immigrants from many countries. Walk the alleys slowly.
Go whenMidday, when the light falls through the cypress hedges.
Local tip Walk the central alley first, then wander. The names on the stones tell you where the settlers came from.
Centolla is the Magellan king crab, sweet and served simply, a classic of the far south. Look for it on the menu in the streets around the main square.
Local tip Order it plain with a squeeze of lemon, and share a plate if you are two.
About 4 min walk0.3 km
3
AfternoonWorth a short stop
Monumento al Ovejero
A monument to the shepherds who worked the great sheep farms of the region, a short ride from the cemetery. A quiet place to understand what built this far southern city.
Go whenAfternoon, as part of the cemetery visit.
Local tip It is a short stop beside the road. Read the plaque, then go on, since the story is easier to feel once you have seen the open plain further north.
About 21 min walk1.7 km
4
EveningWorth the time
Cerro de la Cruz
A small hill above the center, reached by a short climb of stairs, with a wide view over the red and blue roofs, the port and the strait. Go for the late light.
Go whenEvening, around sunset, when the strait turns silver.
Local tip Wear a windproof layer even on a warm day, because the top is open to the wind. The best view is back toward the port and the water.
Cordero al palo is Patagonian lamb roasted slowly over a wood fire, set upright beside the coals. It is the signature dish of the region and suits a cold evening.
Local tip Ask for a portion to share, and add a plain salad on the side.
If it rains. The cemetery and the monument are outdoors and better in a dry spell. Swap in a museum or sit in a cafe on the main square, and do the hill when the sky clears.
Day 2. The road north to Puerto Natales
3 stops · 1.1 km
A day with a gentle pace. A slow morning in Punta Arenas, then the long road north across the open steppe, with no need to stop at every sign.
1
MorningWorth a short walk
Muelle Arturo Prat
The old pier on the waterfront, where the city meets the Strait of Magellan. Walk to the end and look at the wind on the water.
Go whenMorning, before you leave town.
Local tip Look across the strait for the low line of Tierra del Fuego on a clear day. Hold your hat.
About 10 min walk0.8 km
2
MorningPick your rooms
Museo Regional de Magallanes
The mansion of one of the great wool families, kept as a museum of how well-off settlers lived at the end of the world. Rooms of furniture, photographs and everyday objects.
Go whenMorning, before the long drive north.
Local tip The house itself is the main exhibit. Walk through the rooms slowly and check ahead for what is open.
Lunch
A Chilean empanada
Empanadas are baked or fried pastries filled with cheese, seafood or meat. A quick lunch to carry for the drive north.
Local tip Buy a few from a bakery for the road, as there are few stops on the steppe.
A small museum about the Croatian families who settled in Magallanes. A quiet stop that shows how many peoples came to this far corner.
Go whenLate morning, if you have time before leaving.
Local tip It is a small museum, so keep it short. Check ahead that it is open before you plan around it.
If it rains. Rain does not spoil this day, as the museums are indoors and the drive is the same. Check the road news before you set off, and keep the pier for a clearer hour.
Day 3. The Milodon Cave and the sound
3 stops · 274.8 kmAbout 3 h 16 min driving
A short drive north of Puerto Natales to a huge cave and the quiet water beside it. The day is easy on the legs, so it is a good first day to feel the place.
Drive from Croatian Immigration MuseumAbout 2 h 53 min by car248.6 km
Where Day 2 ended.
1
MiddayWorth a short stop
Puerto Bories
The old meat-packing port a few kilometers north of town, from the days when the region lived on sheep. The tall sheds still stand beside the water of the sound.
Go whenMorning, on the way to the cave.
Local tip Look at the size of the old sheds and imagine the sheep that arrived here from the steppe. It sits on the road north, so it costs little time.
A vast cave in the hillside, where the bones and skin of a giant ground sloth, the milodon, were found. A short path leads in, and a life-size model stands near the entrance.
Go whenMidday, once the morning haze has cleared.
Local tip The path to the cave is short and flat, but the floor can be wet and the wind strong at the mouth. Look back out at the view from inside the cave.
A quiet arm of the sea to the southwest of the cave, with hills dropping to the water. Look at it from the road and take your time on the way back.
Go whenAfternoon, on the way back to town.
Local tip Stop where the road gives a view over the water and walk down to the shore if it is safe. The wind makes the water very changeable.
Treat
Calafate berry ice cream
Calafate is the dark berry of the Patagonian bush, tart and a little sweet. Local ice cream and sweets are made from it, and the saying goes that whoever eats it will return.
Local tip Try a small scoop and decide if you want a second.
If it rains. The cave is partly sheltered and works in light rain. In heavy rain or strong wind, swap this day with a rest day and keep the cave for later.
Day 4. Torres del Paine: the Base of the Towers
3 stops · 110.5 km
The headline day of the trip. A long drive in, the steppe and a lake on the way, then a full day on foot to the lookout under the three granite towers. Start early.
Drive from Fiordo EberhardAbout 1 h 52 min by car53.7 km
Where Day 3 ended.
1
MorningA place to stop
Cerro Castillo
A small village on the road north, where the way turns toward the park. A last place to fill the car, buy a snack and check the weather.
Go whenMorning, on the way to the park.
Local tip Fill the car, buy water and a snack here, and look at the sky. It is the last village of any size before the park.
The long walk to the lookout beside a green lake, with three granite towers rising straight above it. A full day on foot, and the last stretch is steep. Go only when the weather is steady.
Go whenStart early in the morning, and turn back if the wind or cloud builds.
Local tip The last stretch is steep and rocky, and it is the hardest part. Bring layers, water and food, and check ahead for trail and entry rules.
If it rains. This is a day to move if the forecast is poor. Wind and low cloud make the Towers walk unsafe and hide the view, so swap it with a rest day and check ahead.
Day 5. Lago Grey and the glacier by boat
3 stops · 65.5 km
A day on the western side of the park: a beach with icebergs, a boat across the lake to the face of a great glacier, and a calm lake at the end of the day.
Travel from Base of the TowersAbout 37 min by car or transit23.6 km
Where Day 4 ended.
1
MorningWorth the time
Lago Grey
The southern end of a long lake, with a gray beach where small icebergs wash ashore. Walk to the viewpoint and look up the lake toward the ice.
Go whenMorning, when the wind is often lighter.
Local tip Never climb on the icebergs on the beach, and keep back from the water. The waves are cold, and the shore can drop away quickly.
Pan amasado is the homemade Chilean bread, dense and warm. Eat it with local cheese and a hot drink beside the lake.
Local tip A thermos of something hot makes a windy lookout feel easy.
About 35 min by car or transit20.9 km
2
MiddayWorth the time
Grey Glacier
A huge river of ice that ends in the lake. Boats sail to the face, and walkers can see it from lookouts on the shore. Check ahead for boats, because sailings change with the wind.
Go whenMidday, when the light is high on the ice.
Local tip Boats may be cancelled in strong wind, so keep a second day free. Dress for cold on the water, even in summer.
A turquoise lake with the horns of the Paine massif behind it, the picture most people remember. Stop at a lookout on the way back and stay as long as the light holds.
Go whenLate afternoon, around sunset, when the horns glow.
Local tip The wind often drops late in the day. Stay for the last light and bring a layer for the drive back.
If it rains. Boats stop in strong wind and rain. Keep the lake and the lookouts, and move the boat to a day when the weather opens, if you can.
Day 6. Salto Grande and the Cuernos
3 stops · 9.7 km
A day of short walks and big views in the middle of the park: a thundering waterfall, a viewpoint of the horn-shaped peaks, and a landing on the lake.
Travel from Lake PehoéAbout 15 min by car or transit5.5 km
Where Day 5 ended.
1
MorningWorth the time
Salto Grande
A wide, loud waterfall where the water of one lake pours into the next. A short walk from the road, with wind and spray, so keep your camera in a pocket.
Go whenMorning, before the busiest hours.
Local tip Keep to the marked path and hold the rail, as the spray makes the rocks slippery. The wind can pull your hat away.
A viewpoint on the lake road with the dark-capped horns of the Cuernos del Paine above the water. Wide and open, and a good place to eat a snack out of the wind.
Go whenMidday, when the peaks stand clear of cloud.
Local tip Clouds often hide the top of the horns in the morning, so wait for them to lift. A picnic out of the wind is a good plan.
About 25 min walk2.0 km
3
AfternoonWorth a short walk
Pudeto
A landing on the shore of the lake, with a gentle walk along the water and mountains all round. The boat that crosses the lake leaves from here. Check ahead for its schedule.
Go whenAfternoon, after the waterfall.
Local tip Walk a little along the shore to get away from the parking area. If you plan to cross by boat, check ahead for the schedule.
Dinner
Chupe de centolla
Chupe is a creamy gratin of king crab, a regional favorite served bubbling in a clay dish. A good meal after a day outdoors.
Local tip It is rich, so share one dish and add a green salad.
If it rains. The waterfall and viewpoints are short and still good in light rain. In heavy rain, drive the lake road and see them from the car.
Day 7. A slow day on the steppe and the lakes
2 stops · 34.6 km
A rest day for tired legs, or a spare day when the weather ruined another plan. No big walk, just the road, two lakes and the animals of the open plain.
Travel from PudetoAbout 32 min by car or transit17.0 km
Where Day 6 ended.
1
MorningWorth the time
Sarmiento Lake
A big, windy lake on the plain outside the main mountains, with pale shores. Guanacos and rheas often graze along the road, and condors ride the wind above the cliffs.
Go whenMorning, when animals are on the move.
Local tip Drive slowly and watch the plain for guanacos and rheas, and the sky for condors. Do not feed or approach the animals.
If it rains. This is the weather day. If the wind is wild, stay in town and drive out only when the gusts drop. The lakes are as good in changing light as in sun.
Day 8. A slow day around Puerto Natales
3 stops · 90.3 km
A rest day near the base, kept for the weather. A short climb to a view, a walk by the water and a stroll through the town.
Drive from Nordenskjöld LakeAbout 1 h 20 min by car81.9 km
Where Day 7 ended.
1
MorningA climb for the view
Cerro Dorotea
A steady climb on a trail above town to a lookout over the whole sound, the mountains and the plain behind. Skip it if your legs are tired, and go on a clear morning.
Go whenMorning on a clear day, before the afternoon clouds.
Local tip It is a steady climb on a trail above town, so go only if you feel up to it. At the top the wind can be strong, so bring a shell.
Lunch
Merluza austral
Merluza austral is southern hake, a white fish that is a staple of the cold waters, often served grilled or fried with potatoes. A simple, filling lunch back in town.
Local tip Look for it on the set lunch menus in the streets near the waterfront.
About 19 min by car or transit7.5 km
2
AfternoonA place to walk
Puerto Natales Waterfront
A walkway along the edge of the sound, with the mountains across the water. Watch the sky and the birds, and see how the wind changes the color of the water.
Go whenLate afternoon, around sunset.
Local tip Walk it slowly in either direction and look across the water at the mountains. A warm layer is wise even in summer.
About 11 min walk0.9 km
3
EveningA place to sit
Plaza de Armas of Puerto Natales
The small main square of the town, a base for hikers from many countries. Look for the milodon, the town emblem, and sit in a cafe to plan the next day.
Go whenEvening, when hikers come back into town.
Local tip Cafes around the square are good places to compare trail news with other travelers. Use the evening to check the weather for the next day.
If it rains. Skip the climb in rain or low cloud. The waterfront is short, and the cafes around the square are warm.
Day 9. Glaciers and fjords by boat
3 stops · 67.2 km
A day on the water. A boat takes you north up the sound, past cliffs and waterfalls, to a glacier and a river inside Bernardo O'Higgins National Park. Check the boat schedule ahead.
Drive from Plaza de Armas of Puerto NatalesAbout 1 h 48 min by car52.9 km
Where Day 8 ended.
1
MorningWorth the time
Última Esperanza Sound
The long fjord that gives the region its name, which means Last Hope. Cliffs, sea birds and waterfalls drop down to the water as the boat moves north.
Go whenMorning on the boat, as the town drops behind.
Local tip Stay out on deck for the first hour in a warm layer, because the cliffs and waterfalls come fast. Check ahead for boat schedules.
Boat days usually include a meal or a break for food, often with local lamb or fish. Check ahead to see what is provided, and bring a snack and a hot drink.
Local tip Eat on deck for a few minutes, then go inside to warm up.
About 18 min by car or transit7.0 km
3
AfternoonWorth the time
Balmaceda Glacier
A hanging glacier of blue ice that spills down from the mountain toward the fjord. The boat stops in front of it, and the cold air from the ice is felt on deck.
Go whenAfternoon, when the boat reaches the fjord head.
Local tip Bring gloves and a hat for the deck, because the air coming off the ice is cold. The glacier has been shrinking, so look at it with that in mind.
If it rains. Boats can be cancelled in bad weather or rough water, so keep a spare day and check ahead. In light rain the glacier is still dramatic from the deck.
Day 10. Back to Punta Arenas
3 stops · 249.1 kmAbout 3 h 24 min driving
A travel day south. Leave Puerto Natales after breakfast, drive back across the steppe and spend a few calm hours in Punta Arenas before the flight.
Drive from Balmaceda GlacierAbout 3 h 24 min by car248.2 km
Where Day 9 ended.
1
AfternoonWorth a short look
Palacio Sara Braun
A grand mansion on the main square, built for a woman of the wool and shipping fortunes. Look at the stone front and the windows from the plaza.
Go whenAfternoon, after the drive.
Local tip Walk around the square to see the front from a distance, and check ahead if you want to go inside.
About 2 min walkunder 0.1 km
2
AfternoonWorth a short visit
Sacred Heart Cathedral
The big church on the main square, with a plain interior and a calm feeling after the park. Step in out of the wind.
Go whenAfternoon, on the square.
Local tip It is a calm stop out of the wind. Take a minute to sit before the last hours of the trip.
If it rains. The museums and the cathedral are indoors, so the day works in any weather. The only risk is the road south, so leave early.
Departure day
After the last day. Sleep your last night in Punta Arenas and leave a wide margin for the airport.Details
The last night
Stay your final night in Punta Arenas, not in Puerto Natales. The road between the two is a long drive, and a gale or a late start can slow it.
The airport
The airport is a drive north of the city center. Taxis and buses make the run, so give yourself extra time, especially if the wind has been strong or the plane is going on to Santiago.
The car
If you rented a car, read the rules on gravel damage and on returning it in a different town before you sign, and fill the tank before the last stretch into the city.
A last look
If you have a free hour, walk the waterfront in Punta Arenas once more. On a clear day you may see the low line of Tierra del Fuego across the strait.
Questions people ask
How many days does this plan cover?
It covers 10 days in Torres del Paine, planned for late January. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.
Who is this plan for?
It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.
Is anything on this plan booked?
No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.
Can I plan my own days like this?
Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.
Can I change this plan?
Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.
How much walking is there?
Each day has about 0.9 to 56.8 kilometers between its stops, and 174.7 kilometers in all across 10 days. A short hop is a walk and a longer one a ride. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.