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Tbilisi, Tbilisi: 5 days in Tbilisi and KakhetiPhoto by Hongbin on Unsplash
Culture & Discovery MarvelIndulgence TreatTrip idea · Tbilisi, Tbilisi

5 days in Tbilisi and Kakheti

Five days in the capital of the country of Georgia: old churches and sulfur baths in the river gorge, an avenue of museums and theatres, the ancient capital at Mtskheta, and a long day in Kakheti, where wine is still made in clay jars.

5 daysAbout 1.8 km on foot a dayMay to June, or September to October20 places
Copy this plan to your own trips, then change anything you like.
Tbilisi: houses under clouds
Photo by Jaanus Jagomägi on Unsplash
Tbilisi: brown concrete building under cloudy sky during daytime
Photo by Max Letek on Unsplash
How many days?Pick yours and the plan rearranges.

Arrival day

Before Day 1. Many flights land late at night, so plan the ride to your door.Details
Getting here
The airport is east of the centre, about half an hour by road. Taxis and ride apps both work. Agree the fare or use the app before you set off, and have your address in both Georgian and English.
Money and language
The currency is the lari. Cards work in most places in town, and cash helps in villages. Georgian has its own alphabet, so a translation app on your phone is useful. Hello is gamarjoba, and thank you is madloba.
Hills and heat
Tbilisi sits in a river gorge with steep streets and steps. Summers are hot, so start early in July and August. Cover your shoulders and knees for churches, and women often carry a scarf for the head.
First evening
Day 1 starts in the old town, so settle in, then walk down to the river lanes at dusk. Check the entry rules for your passport before you fly.

How much walking? On foot, about 1.0 to 3.4 kilometers a day, and 240.2 kilometers by car in all across 5 days. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.

Day 1. Old churches, the fortress and the baths

4 stops · 1.1 km on foot

The old town in the river gorge. A very old church, a cathedral, the fortress above the town, and the sulfur baths at dusk. Everything is within about a kilometre, but the streets climb, so go slowly.

If you only have half a dayNarikala Fortress, then Abanotubani. The old walls on the ridge above the town, then the bath district where natural sulfur springs rise under low brick domes.
  1. Breakfast

    Cheese bread and strong coffee

    A warm boat of bread filled with melted cheese, sometimes topped with an egg, with strong coffee.

    Local tip Khachapuri is a meal, so share one. Tear the crust and dip it in the cheese.

  2. 1
    MorningIndoor

    Anchiskhati Basilica

    One of the oldest churches in the city still standing, with a plain stone nave and a core that dates from the sixth century. It takes its name from an icon brought here in the seventeenth century. A calm start to the day.

    Go when Morning, when it is quiet and the light comes in low.

    Local tip A small, plain church that is easy to miss. Look for the old stone and the candles, and cover your shoulders and knees.

    Anchiskhati Basilica, Tbilisi
    Photo: Gerd Eichmann, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 6 min walk0.5 km
  3. 2
    MiddayIndoor

    Sioni Cathedral

    A cathedral on the site of a much older church, rebuilt many times after wars and earthquakes. Inside, candles and icons, with people who come in daily to pray. Dress modestly, and stay quiet during services.

    Go when Late morning, outside the hours of services.

    Local tip It is a working church, so people come in to pray all day. Stand back during a service, and do not photograph worshippers.

    Sioni Cathedral, Tbilisi
    Photo: This Photo was taken by S…, CC BY 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  4. Lunch

    Dumplings with broth

    Large twisted dumplings of spiced meat and broth, eaten with the hands and plenty of pepper.

    Local tip Hold the dumpling by the knot, bite a small hole and drink the broth first. Leave the knot on the plate.

    About 5 min walk0.4 km
  5. 3
    Afternoon

    Narikala Fortress

    The old walls on the ridge above the town, with views over roofs, domes and the river. You can climb on foot by a path from the baths, or take a cable car from the park by the river. The path is steep and rough in places.

    Go when Late afternoon, for the view and the light.

    Local tip The path from the bath district is steep and rough, and the cable car from the park saves your legs. The walls are old and uneven, so take care at the edges.

    Narikala Fortress, Tbilisi: aerial view of city during daytime
    Photo by ᴍᴀʀʏ ʙɪʀᴀɢᴏ on Unsplash
    About 3 min walk0.2 km
  6. 4
    Evening

    Abanotubani

    The bath district, where natural sulfur springs rise under low brick domes. Legend says a king found the hot springs while hunting and founded the city on the spot. Book a private room or choose a public bath, and ask your host which is open.

    Why it is hereIt is the sulfur baths that end the day in the old town.

    Go when Evening, when the day has cooled.

    Local tip Choose a private room for a soak, and ask the staff how long to stay. The sulfur smell is natural. If you have a heart or blood pressure problem, ask your doctor first.

    Abanotubani, Tbilisi: a view of a city with a hill in the background
    Photo by Irina Gachechiladze on Unsplash
  7. Dinner

    A table of small dishes

    Walnut and herb pastes, spinach and beetroot balls, grilled aubergine with walnut sauce and warm bread.

    Local tip Order a few dishes to share, and pair them with a glass of amber wine, made in clay jars.

If it rains. Rain makes the stone steps slick. Start with the two churches, take the baths in the afternoon, and keep the fortress for a drier hour.

Day 2. The avenue, the museum and the market

4 stops · 1.0 km on foot, 2.1 km by car

The centre of the city, a gentle day. A museum of Georgian history, the main avenue, the Dry Bridge flea market, and a hill park above the city at dusk. Mostly flat, apart from the final climb by funicular.

If you only have half a dayRustaveli Avenue, then Mtatsminda Park. The main boulevard lined with theatres, the opera house and old cafes, then a hilltop park reached by a funicular.
  1. Breakfast

    Bread, cheese and herbs

    Warm bread from a clay oven, salty white cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers and fresh herbs.

    Local tip The bread comes out of the oven in the morning, and is best eaten right away.

  2. 1
    MorningIndoor

    Simon Janashia Museum of Georgia

    The national museum of history, with archaeology from the Stone Age to the Middle Ages, and gold work that shows how old the craft is here. Allow two hours, and use it as a cool, indoor start.

    Go when Morning, when it is cool and quiet.

    Local tip Choose the archaeology and the gold, and skip the rest if you are tired. Check ahead on which halls are open.

    Simon Janashia Museum of Georgia, Tbilisi
    Photo: Julien Pauthier, CC BY-SA 2.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 3 min walk0.2 km
  3. 2
    Midday

    Rustaveli Avenue

    The main boulevard, named for the medieval poet Shota Rustaveli, lined with theatres, the opera house, the parliament and old cafes. A good street for a slow walk and a pause in the shade.

    Go when Late morning, with a coffee stop on the way.

    Local tip Start at Freedom Square and walk up past the theatre and the opera house. The side streets have the old courtyards and bookshops.

  4. Lunch

    Bean stew and cornbread

    A thick stew of red beans with onions and herbs, with a round of cornbread and pickles.

    Local tip Lobio comes in a clay pot, often with cheese. A simple meal that locals eat on weekdays.

    About 10 min walk0.8 km
  5. 3
    Afternoon

    Dry Bridge Market

    An open-air flea market by the river, with Soviet badges, old cameras, paintings, rugs and ceramics laid out on the ground and on stalls. It is busiest at weekends, and haggling is expected.

    Go when Weekend morning, when every stall is out.

    Local tip Haggle with a smile and look for the paintings and the old ceramics. Keep your bag closed, and check ahead on the days it runs.

    About 9 min by car or transit2.1 km
  6. 4
    Evening

    Mtatsminda Park

    A hilltop park above the city, reached by a funicular, with a small funfair and a wide view over the whole river valley, best at dusk when the lights come on. Check ahead on the funicular and the park.

    Go when Dusk, when the city lights come on.

    Local tip Take the funicular up and walk back down if you have the legs. The view is the point, so a clear evening is best. Check ahead on the funicular.

    Mtatsminda Park, Tbilisi
    Photo: Jonathan Cardy, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  7. Dinner

    Grilled meat skewers

    Skewers of grilled pork or lamb from a charcoal grill, with sour plum sauce, onions and bread.

    Local tip Ask for the meat medium, as locals do. The sour plum sauce is called tkemali.

If it rains. The museum is a good rainy morning. The flea market is open air and thin in the wet, so swap it for a long cafe stop on the avenue.

Day 3. A day in Kakheti, the wine country

4 stops · 1.7 km on foot, 161.3 km by car

A full day east of the capital, about two hours each way by road. A hilltop town, a monastery, the estate of a poet, and a great church among the vines. Go with a driver, so everyone can taste the wine.

If you only have half a daySignagi, then Alaverdi Monastery. A walled hilltop town of pastel houses and red roofs, then a tall stone cathedral standing alone in the fields.
  1. Drive from Mtatsminda ParkAbout 1 h 30 min by car95.2 km
    Where Day 2 ended.
  2. Breakfast

    Coffee and bread before the road

    A quick breakfast of coffee, bread and cheese before the long drive east.

    Local tip Take water and a snack for the road, since the stops are far apart.

  3. 1
    MorningBest early

    Signagi

    A walled hilltop town of pastel houses and red roofs, with long ramparts and a view across the Alazani valley to the high Caucasus on a clear day. Walk the walls and the quiet lanes before the day trippers arrive.

    Go when Morning, before the tour buses.

    Local tip Walk a stretch of the ramparts and look across to the mountains. The cobbles are steep, so wear shoes with grip.

    Signagi, Tbilisi
    Photo: George Nikoladze on Wikimedia Commons
    About 21 min walk1.7 km
  4. 2
    Midday

    Bodbe Monastery

    A convent a few minutes from the town, set among cypress trees, where Saint Nino, who brought Christianity to the country, is buried. Cover your shoulders and knees, and walk down the path through the garden to the spring.

    Go when Late morning, with a calm walk through the garden.

    Local tip It is a working convent, so dress modestly and keep your voice low. The path down to the spring is long and steep.

    Bodbe Monastery, Tbilisi
    Photo: This Photo was taken by S…, CC BY 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  5. Lunch

    A table in the vines

    A long lunch of roast chicken, bread, pickles, cheese and tomato salad, with wine from clay jars.

    Local tip Georgian tables are slow, with toasts led by a host. Pace yourself, and let your driver eat and not drink.

    About 52 min by car43.7 km
  6. 3
    Afternoon

    Tsinandali

    The estate of the poet Prince Alexander Chavchavadze, with a garden of old trees and a house museum. The valley around it is one of the oldest wine areas in the world, where wine is made in buried clay jars called qvevri.

    Go when Afternoon, for the garden and the cellars.

    Local tip Walk the garden first, then look at the house museum. Ask about the qvevri, the clay jars the wine is made in. Taste with a driver, never behind the wheel.

    Tsinandali, Tbilisi
    Photo: Archil sutiashvili, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 36 min by car or transit22.5 km
  7. 4
    EveningIndoor

    Alaverdi Monastery

    A tall stone cathedral of the eleventh century, among the tallest in the country, standing alone in the fields. The monks have made wine here for a thousand years. Dress modestly, and stay quiet inside.

    Go when Late afternoon, when the light is warm.

    Local tip The cathedral is huge and plain inside. Dress modestly, and stay quiet. A festival is held here each autumn, and it is much busier then.

    Alaverdi Monastery, Tbilisi: aerial view of brown concrete building near body of water during daytime
    Photo by Patrick Keller on Unsplash
  8. Dinner

    Walnut candy and a last glass

    A string of walnuts dipped in grape juice and flour, called churchkhela, with a final glass of amber wine.

    Local tip Churchkhela is the local travel snack, and keeps well in a bag.

If it rains. Vineyards are lovely in a soft drizzle, but the roads can be slick. Keep the monasteries and the estate, and drop the long ramparts walk.

Day 4. Mtskheta, the ancient capital

4 stops · 1.7 km on foot, 76.7 km by car

A short drive north, about half an hour each way. The oldest capital of the country, with a hilltop monastery over two rivers, a great cathedral and a convent, then back in the city for a green evening.

If you only have half a dayJvari Monastery, then Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. A small stone church on a hill where two rivers meet, then a cathedral in the old capital where kings were crowned and buried.
  1. Drive from Alaverdi MonasteryAbout 1 h 2 min by car57.4 km
    Where Day 3 ended.
  2. Breakfast

    A pastry and a coffee

    A warm pastry or a slice of cheese bread with coffee, at a bakery near your door.

    Local tip Bakeries open early, and the bread is often still warm.

  3. 1
    MorningBest early

    Jvari Monastery

    A small stone church of the sixth century on a hill where two rivers meet, with a view of the old capital below. Its plain shape is one of the models for later churches. Go early for the light and the quiet.

    Go when Morning, for the quiet and the light.

    Local tip The church is small, so go early. The view of the two rivers from the terrace is the highlight. A taxi from town is the easiest way up.

    Jvari Monastery, Tbilisi: a group of cars parked in a parking lot
    Photo by Collab Media on Unsplash
    About 14 min walk1.1 km
  4. 2
    MiddayIndoor

    Svetitskhoveli Cathedral

    A great cathedral of the eleventh century in the heart of the old capital, where kings were crowned and buried. The town around it is a World Heritage site. Cover your shoulders and knees, and stay quiet during services.

    Go when Midday, outside the hours of services.

    Local tip Look at the carved stone outside and the painted walls inside. Cover your shoulders and knees, and do not photograph worshippers.

    Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, Tbilisi
    Photo: This Photo was taken by S…, CC BY 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  5. Lunch

    Garlic chicken in milk sauce

    Fried chicken in a creamy sauce of milk, garlic and herbs, served in a clay dish with bread.

    Local tip The sauce is rich, so share the dish and use bread to finish it.

    About 7 min walk0.6 km
  6. 3
    AfternoonIndoor

    Samtavro Monastery

    A quiet monastery with a church and a courtyard, a short walk from the cathedral, much visited by pilgrims. A calm place to sit before the road back to the city.

    Go when Afternoon, for a quiet moment.

    Local tip A working monastery, so keep your voice low and dress modestly. It is an easy stop on foot from the cathedral.

    Samtavro Monastery, Tbilisi: aerial view of brown concrete building near body of water during daytime
    Photo by Patrick Keller on Unsplash
    About 34 min by car or transit19.3 km
  7. 4
    Evening

    National Botanical Garden of Georgia

    A green valley behind the fortress, with winding paths, old trees and a waterfall at the far end. A cool place after a day on the road.

    Go when Evening, when the heat has gone.

    Local tip Walk to the waterfall at the end of the valley. The path is partly steep, so take water and wear good shoes. Check ahead on the opening.

    National Botanical Garden of Georgia, Tbilisi: an aerial view of a statue of a woman surrounded by trees
    Photo by SHAHEN on Unsplash
  8. Dinner

    Chicken in walnut sauce

    Cold chicken or turkey in a thick sauce of ground walnuts, garlic and warm spices, a feast dish.

    Local tip Satsivi is often served cold, as a starter at a long supper.

If it rains. The cathedral and the convent are indoors and work in rain. Skip the climb to the hill monastery if the path is wet, and keep the garden for a drier hour.

Day 5. A slow day in the old town

4 stops · 3.4 km on foot

A last day with time to spare. A church on a cliff, the statue over the town, the great modern cathedral and the square at dusk. The first stops are close to each other, and a taxi helps with the cathedral.

If you only have half a dayMetekhi Church, then Kartlis Deda. A thirteenth-century church on a cliff over the river, then a tall aluminum statue of a woman on a hill above the old town.
  1. Breakfast

    A boat of cheese and egg

    A boat-shaped bread filled with cheese and a runny egg, with butter on top.

    Local tip Stir the egg and butter into the cheese and tear the crust to dip.

  2. 1
    Morning

    Metekhi Church

    A thirteenth-century church on a cliff over the river, with a statue of the king who founded the city. A quiet place, and a good spot for photographs of the old town across the water.

    Go when Morning, for the light on the river.

    Local tip The church is small, but the cliff and the view of the old town are the point. Cross the bridge for the best photographs.

    Metekhi Church, Tbilisi: Metekhi Church and King Vakhtang Gorgasali statue on a cliff above the Kura River
    Photo by m c on Unsplash
    About 7 min walk0.6 km
  3. 2
    Midday

    Kartlis Deda

    A tall aluminum statue of a woman in national dress on a hill above the old town, holding a bowl of wine for friends and a sword for enemies. It is a symbol of the city, with a fine view down to the baths.

    Go when Midday, on the walk up from the baths.

    Local tip Walk up from the baths or take the cable car. Read the story of the cup and the sword, and look back at the old town.

  4. Lunch

    A spread of vegetables

    Pickled and fresh vegetables, walnut sauce, beans and warm bread, a vegetarian-friendly table.

    Local tip Many of the small dishes have no meat, so it is an easy meal for vegetarians.

    About 18 min walk1.4 km
  5. 3
    AfternoonIndoor

    Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi

    The largest Orthodox cathedral in the country, finished in 2004, on a hill on the east bank. Huge, golden and calm, with a large courtyard. Cover your shoulders and knees, and women usually cover the head.

    Go when Afternoon, outside the hours of services.

    Local tip It is vast, with a courtyard you can walk around. Cover your shoulders and knees, and women usually cover the head. A taxi is easier than the climb.

    Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi, Tbilisi: a view of a city with a church in the middle
    Photo by Somil Gupta on Unsplash
    About 17 min walk1.3 km
  6. 4
    Evening

    Freedom Square

    The central square, with a golden statue of Saint George on a tall column, and old streets running off in every direction. A good place to sit and watch the evening begin before a last supper.

    Go when Evening, for the lights and the lanes.

    Local tip Sit at a cafe and watch the evening begin, then walk into the old streets. It is the best place for a last toast of the trip.

    Freedom Square, Tbilisi: A scenic view of freedom square, tbilisi
    Photo by Soyoung HAN on Unsplash
  7. Dinner

    A farewell supper

    A last table of dumplings, grilled meat, cheese bread and a toast with wine.

    Local tip Raise a glass with the toast gaumarjos, which means victory.

If it rains. Rain suits the big cathedral. Keep the cliff church and the statue for a dry gap, and spend the evening in the cafes around the square.

Departure day

After the last day. Allow time for the hill streets and the airport road.Details
Getting out
Many flights leave very early in the morning, so book the ride the night before. The road to the airport can be slow in the morning rush.
Your flight
Spend the lari you do not need, since they are hard to change outside the country. Wine and churchkhela, the walnut candy, travel well in a bag. Check the rules for liquids in hand luggage.
If you have a few hours
Take a last walk to the river and the baths, or sit with a glass of wine in a courtyard in the old town.

Questions people ask

How many days does this plan cover?

It covers 5 days in Tbilisi, planned for may to June, or September to October. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.

Who is this plan for?

It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.

Is anything on this plan booked?

No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.

Can I plan my own days like this?

Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.

Can I change this plan?

Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.

How much walking is there?

On foot, about 1.0 to 3.4 kilometers a day, and 240.2 kilometers by car in all across 5 days. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.

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