3 days of silver, a hill pyramid and spring weather

Cuernavaca on foot, in the mild air that gave the city its nickname. A fortress-like cathedral, the house of Cortés with its Diego Rivera mural, a garden built by a silver baron and the two small squares at the heart of town.

1. Breakfast

   Eggs, beans and tortillas

   Eggs cooked the way you like, with refried beans, warm tortillas and a strong coffee, in a cafe near the main square.

   Local tip Ask for the green and the red sauce on the side, and add a little at a time.
2. 1
   MorningIndoor

   Cuernavaca Cathedral

   The cathedral of Cuernavaca, begun by Franciscan friars in the 1500s inside a wide walled yard, with thick walls and an open air chapel that give it the look of a fortress. It is a working church, so stay quiet during services.

   Go when Morning, outside the hours of services.

   Local tip Walk into the walled yard first and look at the open air chapel. A working church, so cover your shoulders and stay quiet during services.

   

   About 5 min walk0.4 km
3. 2
   MiddayIndoor

   Palace of Cortés

   A stone palace begun by Hernán Cortés in the 1520s, with a view over the valley, now a regional museum of Morelos. Along the upper gallery runs a long mural by Diego Rivera that tells the story of the region from the Spanish conquest to the revolution.

   Go when Midday, as an indoor stop.

   Local tip Go to the upper gallery for the Rivera mural, and read it from left to right. Check ahead on the opening, since a museum can close for a day without notice.

4. Lunch

   Cecina tacos

   Cecina is thin, dried and salted beef, a speciality of Morelos, grilled and served in tortillas with onion, coriander and a sharp sauce.

   Local tip Order a few and add lime, since the meat is salty.

   About 7 min walk0.6 km
5. 3
   Afternoon

   Jardín Borda

   A garden of terraces, ponds and old trees built in the 1700s by the family of a silver mine owner, José de la Borda, who also paid for the church in Taxco. Later it served as a summer retreat of the emperor Maximilian. It is a calm place for an unhurried hour.

   Go when Afternoon, when the light is soft.

   Local tip Walk the terraces and sit by the pond. It is a garden with steps and slopes, so wear shoes with grip. Check ahead on the opening.

   About 6 min walk0.5 km
6. 4
   Evening

   Plaza de Armas

   The main square of old Cuernavaca, where the town gathers in the cool of the evening, joined to a second small garden, the Jardín Juárez, with a bandstand. Sit on a bench, listen for music, and watch the town go by.

   Go when Early evening (about 6:46 PM), when the town comes out.

   Local tip Take a bench and a cold drink and watch the town. Keep your bag in front of you in the crowd and leave before it is very late.

7. Dinner

   Quesadillas of squash blossom

   Folded corn tortillas filled with cheese and squash blossoms, cooked on a griddle, a light supper under the trees of the square.

   Local tip Ask what fillings are fresh that day, and eat them hot.

A day in Tepoztlán, a short drive north east of Cuernavaca. Climb early to a small temple high on the cliffs, then come down to the market and the old Dominican convent. Bring water and check ahead on conditions.

1. Travel from Plaza de ArmasAbout 32 min by car or transit16.5 km

   Where Day 1 ended.
2. Breakfast

   Fruit and a sweet roll

   A plate of cut fruit and a sweet roll with coffee, a light start before the climb.

   Local tip Pack water and a snack for the path, since there is little to buy on the way up.
3. 1
   MorningBest early

   Tepozteco Pyramid

   A small temple, dedicated to the local god Tepoztécatl, set on a ledge of the cliffs above the town. A steep path of rock steps climbs through the forest to it, and the view over the valley is the reason to go. Start early, bring water and shoes with grip, and check ahead on conditions.

   Go when Early morning, before the heat and the crowds.

   Local tip Bring plenty of water and wear shoes with grip, since the steps are steep and worn. Keep to the path, and do not climb in rain or after a storm. Check ahead on conditions and on whether the site is open.

   

   About 22 min walk1.7 km
4. 2
   Midday

   Tepoztlán Market

   The market of Tepoztlán, with stalls of fruit, herbs, woven things, painted masks and ices in unusual flavours, in the streets of a small town with cliffs on all sides. It is busiest on market days, so check which they are.

   Go when Midday, once you are down from the hill.

   Local tip Taste an ice in an unusual flavour and look at the painted masks and woven goods. Hold your bag in front of you in the lanes, and ask before you photograph a seller.

   

5. Lunch

   Tlacoyos in the market

   Oval corn cakes filled with beans or cheese, cooked on a griddle and topped with cactus paddle, onion and a sauce, eaten standing at a market stall.

   Local tip Watch them cooked on the griddle, and eat them while they are hot.

   About 2 min walkunder 0.1 km
6. 3
   AfternoonIndoor

   Dominican Convent of Tepoztlán

   The old convent of the Nativity, built by Dominican friars in the 1500s, part of a group of early monasteries that share a World Heritage listing. A thick walled church and cloister stand beside the market. A working church, so stay quiet during services.

   Go when Afternoon, outside the hours of services.

   Local tip Walk through the cloister and look at the thick walls and the faded paintings. A working church, so cover your shoulders and stay quiet.

7. Dinner

   Soup and tortillas in Cuernavaca

   A warm bowl of chicken or bean soup with tortillas and a squeeze of lime, a plain supper after a day on the hill.

   Local tip Order something light and go to bed early.

8. Treat

   An ice in a local flavour

   Tepoztlán is known for its ices, sold in flavours such as corn, avocado and chili. A cold treat on a warm afternoon by the convent wall.

   Local tip Ask for a taste first, and try something you have not met before.

A long day trip to Taxco, about two hours each way, so start early and book a driver ahead. A white town of red tile roofs on a steep hill, a baroque church of pink stone, an old house of a traveller and a museum of a silversmith.

1. Drive from Dominican Convent of TepoztlánAbout 1 h 13 min by car71.5 km

   Where Day 2 ended.
2. Breakfast

   Coffee and a sweet roll before the road

   A hot coffee and a sweet roll, picked up early so the drive to Taxco starts on time.

   Local tip Fill a bottle of water, since the road is long.
3. 1
   Morning

   Santa Prisca Church

   A baroque church of rose coloured stone, built in the 1700s with money from the silver mine owner José de la Borda. Its twin towers and carved front look over the plaza, and the altarpieces inside are covered in gold leaf. A working church, so stay quiet during services.

   Go when Morning, outside the hours of services.

   Local tip Stand in the plaza to see the whole front before you go in, then look up at the gold leaf inside. A working church, so stay quiet and keep your voice low.

   

   About 2 min walkunder 0.1 km
4. 2
   Midday

   Plaza Borda

   The sloping main square of Taxco, in front of the church, with arcades, cafe tables and narrow streets of silver workshops running uphill from it. Look for the hallmark 925 on a piece before you buy, and walk slowly, since the stones are steep and uneven.

   Go when Late morning into midday, with a coffee.

   Local tip The streets slope steeply, so take small steps and wear shoes with grip. Silver is sold in workshops and stalls here, so ask about the stamp and compare before you buy.

5. Lunch

   Green pozole

   A soup of hominy corn and pork in a green sauce of pumpkin seeds and herbs, a dish of Guerrero, served with a plate of toppings.

   Local tip Add the onion, radish and lime at the table to your taste, and take the chili slowly.

   About 2 min walkunder 0.1 km
6. 3
   Afternoon

   Casa Humboldt

   An 18th century house with a carved stone front in a Moorish style, where the German traveller Alexander von Humboldt stayed in 1803. Today it is a museum of art from the viceroyalty, with religious paintings, vestments and carvings.

   Go when Afternoon, as an indoor stop.

   Local tip Look at the carved stone of the front before you go in. Check ahead on the opening, since small museums keep their own days.

   About 2 min walk0.2 km
7. 4
   Evening

   William Spratling Museum

   A museum of the American designer who helped start the modern silver craft of Taxco in the 1930s. It holds pre-Hispanic objects that he collected, and a display on silver and its makers. Check ahead on the opening.

   Go when Late afternoon, as an indoor stop.

   Local tip A small museum, so it takes little time. It sits on a steep street a short walk from the church, so allow time for the climb.

   

8. Dinner

   Tamales and a hot drink

   Soft corn tamales wrapped in a leaf, with a warm cup of atole or chocolate, a light supper before the long drive back.

   Local tip Unwrap the leaf and eat only the soft dough inside.