Five slow days in the green south of Austria. Two days in Graz, an old town of red roofs and a good table, then three by car: steep vineyards on the South Styrian Wine Road, a castle on a volcanic rock, and the Schilcher hills in the west.
5 daysAnyoneLate September16 places
Copy this plan to your own trips, then change anything you like.
Before Day 1. Graz is small, so leave your bags and walk out into the old town.Details
From the airport
Graz has its own airport south of the city, with a bus and a train link to the center, and taxis. Many visitors also arrive by train from Vienna, which runs on a regular timetable. Check the times ahead of your day.
Your car
You need a car for the wine road, the castle and the hills, but not for Graz. Collect it on the morning of Day 3, not before, so you are not paying for parking in the old town. Check the rental office hours when you book.
Cycling
The valleys are gentle enough for cycling, and the wine road has quiet lanes. Check ahead on bike hire and on whether an electric bike suits the hills. A cycling day is a good way to taste wine without a car.
Before you go out
Graz is at its best on foot, from the main square to the river. Day 1 starts on the Hauptplatz, so book a hotel in the old town and you will be there in minutes.
Day 1. The old town of Graz
4 stops · 1.3 km
A UNESCO old town with red roofs, courtyards and a hill in the middle. It is small, so the day is walking, sitting in squares and going up for the view.
1
MorningA place to sit
Hauptplatz
The main square of the old town, with the town hall on one side and a fountain in the middle. Start here, look around, and take your time.
Go whenMorning, before the shops open.
Local tip Look at the town hall on the square and the fountain, then take one of the lanes off the square to see the courtyards.
Lunch
A Käsekrainer from a stand
A grilled sausage with melted cheese inside, eaten with mustard and a roll from a street stand. A quick Austrian lunch.
Local tip Eat it hot and standing, and watch the square.
The hill in the middle of the old town, with the clock tower that is the symbol of Graz. A lift, a funicular and stairs lead up, so check ahead on which are running. The hands are the other way round, because the long one is the hour hand.
Go whenLate afternoon, around sunset.
Local tip Take the lift or the funicular up and walk down the stairs, if you are comfortable with steps. Check ahead on which is running.
A modern art building that looks like a blue bubble with glass spikes, which locals call the friendly alien. Look at the building from the river, then go in if the exhibition appeals.
Go whenLate afternoon, when the blue skin catches the light.
Local tip Cross the river for the best view of the whole shape, then decide whether you want to go in.
Wurzelfleisch is a Styrian dish of boiled pork with root vegetables, grated horseradish and caraway, served with bread. Warm and plain, and a taste of the region.
Local tip Order it in a traditional inn and ask what comes with it.
If it rains. Keep the cathedral and the Kunsthaus, which are indoors, and take a coffee on the Hauptplatz. Go up the Schlossberg on a clear spell.
Day 2. Markets, the river and a palace
4 stops · 6.9 km
A day for Graz food and Graz style. A market, a modern island on the river, a huge armory, and a palace with a park for the afternoon.
1
MorningA market stop
Kaiser-Josef market
An open-air market in the east of the old town, with fruit, cheese, bread and bottles of pumpkin seed oil. Go in the morning and eat as you walk.
Go whenMorning, when the stalls are full.
Local tip Look for the dark green pumpkin seed oil, the black bread and the apple juice. Buy a little to eat on the spot.
About 16 min walk1.3 km
2
MorningWorth a short look
Murinsel
A shell-shaped island of glass and steel that floats in the river Mur and is linked to the banks by two footbridges. A short stop with a good view of the water.
Go whenMorning, with the river quiet.
Local tip Walk across one footbridge and back, and then look at it from the bank, where the whole shape shows.
A building from the 1600s full of historic armor and weapons, kept in the rooms where they were stored. Walk through one floor and leave when you have seen enough.
Go whenMidday, when it is hot or wet outside.
Local tip You do not have to see it all. Choose one floor, look at the armor close up, and move on.
A baroque palace in a large park on the western edge of the city, part of the UNESCO site. Walk the park first, then see the state rooms if you wish. Check ahead for how to visit.
Go whenAfternoon, then stay for the park.
Local tip Walk the park first, then decide whether to visit the state rooms. Check ahead on how to visit.
If it rains. This is a good rainy day: the market has covered stalls, and the armoury and the palace rooms are indoors. Skip the park walk.
Day 3. The South Styrian Wine Road
3 stops · 60.2 km
A day by car in the steep vineyards along the border with Slovenia. Three small wine villages, slow lanes and a long lunch. Plan who drives before the first glass.
Drive from Eggenberg PalaceAbout 30 min by car46.7 km
Where Day 2 ended.
1
MorningWorth a short stop
Ehrenhausen
A small market town near the Slovenian border where the wine road begins. Walk through the main street and look at the hills that come next.
Go whenMorning, as the wine road begins.
Local tip Park in the town and walk the main street, then drive on with the vineyards in view.
A Buschenschank is a family wine tavern, where the grower pours his own wine and serves a board of cold cuts, cheese, black bread and spreads. A cheerful, simple lunch. The opening days vary, so check ahead.
Local tip Plan a designated driver, a taxi or a cycling day. Do not drink and drive on these roads.
About 8 min by car11.0 km
3
AfternoonWorth the time
Leutschach
A wine village in the steepest part of the road, with narrow lanes and views over the rows of vines. A good place to stop and look around.
Go whenLate afternoon, around sunset.
Local tip Stop at a viewpoint over the rows of vines. If you have had wine, a taxi or a designated driver is the plan, not a second glass.
The hills of the wine road are known for crisp, fresh Sauvignon Blanc. A glass at a viewpoint, with bread, is the classic way to spend the late afternoon.
Local tip Share a bottle between those who are not driving, and take water for the one who is.
If it rains. Vineyards in the rain are slippery and the views are gone. Swap this for a second Graz day, or stay for a long lunch in a tavern and drive carefully.
Day 4. The castle and the volcano land
3 stops · 125.5 km
A day by car east of Graz, in a land of gentle hills, old volcanoes and farms. A big castle, a wine village on a slope and a spa park for the end.
Drive from LeutschachAbout 55 min by car69.6 km
Where Day 3 ended.
1
MorningWorth the time
Riegersburg Castle
A large castle on a steep volcanic rock that stands alone over the farmland. Walk up from the village or use the lift if it runs, and check ahead for opening.
Go whenMorning, before the heat.
Local tip Check ahead on opening, since a castle may close on some days. Wear shoes for stone paths, even if you take the lift.
The oil comes from roasted pumpkin seeds, pressed in small mills across the hills. Some mills show how it is made and let you taste it with bread. Check ahead, since not all take visitors.
Local tip Buy a small bottle and keep it away from light.
About 18 min by car19.7 km
3
EveningA place to sit
Bad Gleichenberg spa park
A spa town with an old park of tall trees and quiet paths. Walk a loop and sit on a bench after a day of driving.
Go whenLate afternoon, then dinner nearby.
Local tip Walk a slow loop, and sit under the old trees. It is a place to slow down, not to hurry through.
Schilcher is a dry, sharp rosé wine from the hills of the west, a favorite local drink. Try it with a plate of cold cuts and a hearty soup before you leave.
Local tip Taste a small glass first, since the sharpness surprises many people.
About 15 min by car17.6 km
2
AfternoonWorth the time
Deutschlandsberg Castle
A medieval castle on a ridge above the town, with views over the hills. A fitting end to a slow trip.
Go whenAfternoon, after a long lunch.
Local tip Walk up to the castle for the view over the hills, and take your time on the way down.
If it rains. Keep the castles and skip the walks. A long lunch is a good plan for a wet last day.
Departure day
After the last day. The hills are slow, so leave plenty of time to get back.Details
Returning the car
Plan to give the car back at the Graz station or airport the evening before you leave, or early on the day. Fill the tank outside the city, where it is easier.
By train or by air
Trains run from Graz to Vienna and on to other Austrian cities. The airport is a short trip from the center. Check the timetable the night before and pick the earlier option.
Bringing food home
A bottle of oil or wine is a good souvenir. Wrap it well, and check the allowance for your airline and your country before you pack.
A last morning
If you have a few hours, walk up the Schlossberg once more or have a slow coffee on the Hauptplatz before you go.
Questions people ask
How many days does this plan cover?
It covers 5 days in Graz, planned for late September. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.
Who is this plan for?
It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.
Is anything on this plan booked?
No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.
Can I plan my own days like this?
Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.
Can I change this plan?
Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.
How much walking is there?
Each day has about 1.3 to 56.0 kilometers between its stops, and 95.2 kilometers in all across 5 days. A short hop is a walk and a longer one a ride. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.