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Rest & Recharge
Colombo, Western Province: 7 days in Sri Lanka: culture, tea country and the coastPhoto: Thilina Alagiyawanna, CC0 on Wikimedia Commons
Rest & Recharge ExhaleOff the Beaten Path FindTrip idea · Colombo, Western Province

7 days in Sri Lanka: culture, tea country and the coast

Seven slow days around the middle and south of the island: a gentle first day in Colombo, cave temples and a rock fortress in the culture triangle, Kandy and its lake, a day on the hill railway toward Ella, and a last day in Galle Fort and on the beach. The road days are long, so each one has few stops and a soft evening.

7 daysAnyoneEarly February18 places
Copy this plan to your own trips, then change anything you like.
Colombo
Photo: Thilina Alagiyawanna, CC0 on Wikimedia Commons
Colombo
Photo: SinsiDILINI123, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
How many days?Pick yours and the plan rearranges.

Arrival day

Before Day 1. You land north of Colombo, so keep the first evening light.Details
Getting in
Check what your passport needs to enter Sri Lanka, because many visitors need an electronic travel authorization sorted out before they fly. The main airport is north of Colombo, a drive from the center, and traffic into the city can be slow.
The monsoons
Sri Lanka has two monsoons, so the weather depends on where you are and when. The west and south coasts and the hills are usually drier from about December to March. The east and the north follow a different pattern. Check the month for every region before you book.
Roads and trains
Roads are narrow, busy and winding, most of all in the hills, and a short distance on the map is a long day. Trains in the hills run slowly and are often late. Many travelers hire a car with a driver for the whole route and plan little else on a road day.
First evening
Day 1 starts at Gangaramaya Temple, so tonight needs only a light dinner and an early night. For every temple on this trip, cover shoulders and knees and wear shoes that slip off easily, because you leave them at the door.

Day 1. Colombo, taken slowly

3 stops · 3.4 km

A soft first day in the capital. A busy temple beside a lake, the national museum in its white colonial building and an evening on the long lawn by the sea. Few stops, with room to rest, because the long road days start tomorrow.

  1. Breakfast

    Hoppers for breakfast

    A bowl-shaped pancake of fermented rice flour and coconut milk, crisp at the edge and soft in the middle, often eaten with an egg cooked in the center and a hot onion sambol. A Sri Lankan breakfast from small shops and hotels.

    Local tip The sambol can be very hot, so take a little at a time. Tell the staff about any egg or fish allergy before you order.

    Hoppers for breakfast
    Photo: VinPrasad, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  2. 1
    MorningWorth the time

    Gangaramaya Temple

    A busy Buddhist temple beside Beira Lake, full of halls, shrines, statues and a crowd of gifts and curios gathered over the years. Cover your shoulders and knees, and take your shoes off at the door.

    Go when Morning, before the heat and the tour groups.

    Local tip Cover your shoulders and knees, and take your shoes off at the door. Keep your voice low, and ask before you take a photo of a monk or of anyone praying.

    Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo
    Photo: AKS.9955, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  3. Lunch

    Rice and curry

    The everyday meal of the island: a plate of rice with small bowls of curries, such as dhal, a vegetable, a fish or chicken curry, and a sambol. Small lunch rooms in the city serve it in a banana leaf or on a plate.

    Local tip Ask what each curry holds and how hot it is. Tell the staff about any allergy first, since many curries contain coconut, fish or nuts.

    Rice and curry
    Photo: Banej, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 11 min walk0.9 km
  4. 2
    MiddayPick your rooms

    Colombo National Museum

    The national museum, in a white colonial building beside a park, with objects from the island's kingdoms, from stone carvings to masks and royal pieces. A cool indoor stop in the middle of the day.

    Go when Midday, when the heat outside is highest.

    Local tip Choose two or three rooms rather than all of them. It is a good indoor hour on a hot or wet day, and the park outside is a calm place to sit afterward.

    Colombo National Museum, Colombo
    Photo: Rehman Abubakr, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 10 min by car or transit2.6 km
  5. 3
    EveningWorth the time

    Galle Face Green

    A long lawn along the sea in the middle of the city, where families walk, fly kites and buy snacks from the stalls as the day cools. The sea here can be rough, so look at it and do not swim.

    Go when Evening, around sunset, when the day cools and families come out.

    Local tip Walk the full length slowly. Keep to the grass and the path, mind your bag in the crowd and look at the sea from the wall, since the surf here is strong.

    Galle Face Green, Colombo
    Photo: Rehman Abubakr, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  6. Dinner

    Kottu

    A street dish of chopped flatbread stir fried on a hot griddle with vegetables, egg or meat, made to the loud rhythm of two metal blades. A Colombo evening meal, filling and hot.

    Local tip It is made in front of you, so ask for it mild and with less oil if you like. Tell the staff about any egg or meat allergy before they start.

    Kottu
    Photo: Dan arndt, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
If it rains. The museum is indoors, so keep it. Gangaramaya has covered halls but open courtyards, so take an umbrella. Skip the Green in a downpour, and rest at the hotel until it passes. Rain in Colombo often comes in short bursts.

Day 2. A long road north to Dambulla

2 stops · 169.0 km

A long road day from the coast into the dry middle of the island, with few stops on purpose. A hillside of cave temples in the afternoon, and a quiet reservoir for the evening. Start early, stop for tea on the way and do not plan anything else.

  1. Drive from Galle Face GreenAbout 2 h 12 min by car162.9 km
    Where Day 1 ended.
  2. Breakfast

    String hoppers with curry

    Fine threads of steamed rice flour pressed into small coils, eaten with a dhal or coconut curry and a sambol. A light breakfast before the long road.

    Local tip Eat well, since the next stop is far away. Ask for the curry mild if you are not used to chili.

    String hoppers with curry
    Photo: Viewfinder18, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  3. Lunch

    A rice and curry lunch on the road

    Simple restaurants along the highway serve rice with a few curries, fresh and quick. Travelers on the road to the middle of the island pause at them, and a driver will often know a clean one.

    Local tip Choose a place where the food is hot and busy, and ask your driver. Tell the staff about any allergy first.

  4. 1
    AfternoonWorth the time

    Dambulla Cave Temple

    A hillside of cave shrines, a short climb above the road, with painted ceilings and many Buddha statues, some seated and some reclining. Leave your shoes at the foot, cover shoulders and knees, and ask before you pose with a statue.

    Go when Late afternoon, after the road, when the stone has cooled.

    Local tip Leave your shoes at the foot and wear socks if the stone is hot. Cover shoulders and knees. Never turn your back to a Buddha statue for a photo, and ask before you pose beside one.

    Dambulla Cave Temple, Colombo
    Photo: Lankapic, CC BY 2.5 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 16 min by car or transit6.1 km
  5. 2
    EveningA quiet pause

    Kandalama Reservoir

    A large reservoir near Dambulla, with hills behind it and flat, quiet water. Not a sight to tick off but a calm place to end a long road day. Check which shore paths are open before you go.

    Go when Evening, as the light softens over the water.

    Local tip Ask your driver or your host which side of the reservoir has a path you can reach, since not every shore is open. Birds may be on the water, but do not count on any.

    Kandalama Reservoir, Colombo
    Photo: Rehman Abubakr, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  6. Dinner

    Dhal and vegetable curries

    A plain evening meal of lentil curry, green beans, pumpkin or jackfruit, with rice and a coconut sambol. Light and easy after a long road, and widely available near Dambulla.

    Local tip Ask for little chili. Tell the staff about any allergy first, since coconut and nuts are common.

    Dhal and vegetable curries
    Photo: Biswarup Ganguly, CC BY 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
If it rains. The road is slower in rain. The cave temple is partly under rock, but the climb and the stone floors are slippery when wet, so go slowly. Skip the reservoir if the sky is grey, and rest.

Day 3. Sigiriya at first light, then the road to Kandy

2 stops · 72.7 km

The rock fortress first, while the air is cool, then a second long road day into the hills. A cave temple under a great rock on the way, and Kandy in the evening. The Sigiriya climb is steep, so go early, rest on the way and check ahead.

  1. Travel from Kandalama ReservoirAbout 26 min by car or transit11.0 km
    Where Day 2 ended.
  2. Breakfast

    Milk rice with onion sambol

    Kiribath, a round cake of rice cooked in coconut milk, eaten with a hot onion and chili relish. A traditional morning dish, common at festivals and family mornings.

    Local tip The relish is hot, so try a little first. Tell the staff about any allergy before you order.

    Milk rice with onion sambol
    Photo: Daniele Pellati, CC0 on Wikimedia Commons
  3. 1
    MorningGo early, steep climb

    Sigiriya

    A steep rock rising from the plain, with the ruins of a royal fortress and gardens on and around it. The climb is a long stair with open stretches, and the heat builds fast. Go early, take water and rest at the landings.

    Go when First thing in the morning, before the heat and the crowds.

    Local tip The stair is long, steep and open to the sun. Take water, wear shoes with grip, rest at the landings and turn back if you feel dizzy. Check the opening times and the weather ahead.

    Sigiriya, Colombo
    Photo: Wrobell, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 57 min by car61.6 km
  4. 2
    AfternoonWorth a short stop

    Aluvihare Rock Temple

    A cave temple beside a great rock on the road toward Kandy, where tradition says the Buddhist scriptures were first written on palm leaves. A quiet stop to stretch your legs on a long road day.

    Go when Afternoon, on the road from Sigiriya to Kandy.

    Local tip Cover shoulders and knees and leave your shoes at the door. The caves are small and dim, so a short visit is enough. Ask before you photograph the paintings.

  5. Lunch

    A jackfruit curry lunch

    Young jackfruit cooked in coconut milk and spices, served with rice, dhal and a sambol. A common midday meal in the middle of the island, where jackfruit trees grow in every garden.

    Local tip The dish is mild or hot depending on the cook, so ask. Tell the staff about any allergy first.

    A jackfruit curry lunch
    Photo: This work was made by Tus…, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  6. Treat

    Ceylon tea and short eats

    A cup of black tea, often with milk, and small savory snacks, such as vegetable rolls and cutlets, from a roadside shop on the way to Kandy. A pause to sit in.

    Local tip Short eats can be fried and spicy. Ask what is inside before you buy, and tell the staff about any allergy.

    Ceylon tea and short eats
    Photo: Brigade Piron, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
If it rains. Sigiriya is steep and slippery in the rain, and storms make the climb unsafe, so skip it if it is wet and use the time to rest. Keep the cave temple on the road, and expect a slow drive in the hills.

Day 4. Kandy, the temple, the gardens and the lake

3 stops · 44.2 km

A day in the hill capital. The temple that keeps a sacred relic in the morning, a large botanical garden west of the town in the afternoon and a walk around the lake at the end of the day. Short distances and nothing hurried.

  1. Drive from Aluvihare Rock TempleAbout 37 min by car30.9 km
    Where Day 3 ended.
  2. Breakfast

    Fresh tropical fruit

    Papaya, pineapple, banana and mango when in season, cut at the table, often with a spoon of buffalo curd and a thread of sweet palm treacle. A light morning in the hills.

    Local tip Wash or peel fruit you buy from a stall. Ask for it without ice, and tell the staff about any allergy.

    Fresh tropical fruit
    Photo: Penny Greb on Wikimedia Commons
  3. 1
    MorningCheck ahead

    Temple of the Tooth

    The temple beside the lake in Kandy that keeps a relic said to be a tooth of the Buddha. Worshippers bring lotus flowers, and the main shrine is open at set times, so check ahead. Dress modestly and leave your shoes and hat outside.

    Go when Morning, around the set hour of the ritual, if you wish to see it.

    Local tip Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and leave your shoes and hat outside. The main shrine is busy at ritual times, so check ahead. Some people bring white flowers.

    Temple of the Tooth, Colombo
    Photo: Ernest Jourdier, CC BY 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  4. Lunch

    Cashew and vegetable curries

    Rice with a cashew curry, a pumpkin or brinjal curry and a dhal, often a lunch of the hill country. Small cafes near the temple and the lake serve plates like this.

    Local tip Cashew curry is common here, so tell the staff about any nut allergy before you order.

    Cashew and vegetable curries
    Photo: Abhishek Jacob, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 8 min by car6.7 km
  5. 2
    AfternoonWorth the time

    Royal Botanic Gardens, Peradeniya

    A large botanical garden on a bend of the Mahaweli river, with lawns, palm avenues, orchids and old trees. Flat, shady and easy on the legs. It is a short ride west of Kandy.

    Go when Afternoon, once the heat of the middle of the day has passed.

    Local tip Walk the palm avenue and the orchid house, then sit on the lawns. A hat and water help, and an umbrella is useful because showers come quickly in the hills.

    Royal Botanic Gardens, Peradeniya, Colombo
    Photo: Bernard Gagnon, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 7 min by car6.6 km
  6. 3
    EveningWorth a short stop

    Kandy Lake

    An artificial lake in the middle of the town, with a path around it and the temple on its shore. A slow walk at the end of the day, as the light drops over the hills and the town quiets.

    Go when Evening, as the light drops over the hills.

    Local tip Walk a stretch of the path rather than the full circle. The path is shared with traffic in places, so keep to the side and watch for vehicles.

    Kandy Lake, Colombo
    Photo: Ji-Elle, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  7. Dinner

    A Ceylon tea and a devilled dish

    A devilled dish of sweet, hot stir fried vegetables or meat in a thick sauce, a favorite of Sri Lankan restaurants, with a pot of black tea to finish. A warm evening in the hills.

    Local tip Devilled dishes are hot and often fried. Ask for it mild, and tell the staff about any allergy.

If it rains. The temple is partly covered, the gardens and the lake are open air, so take an umbrella. Swap the gardens for the Ceylon Tea Museum from the extras on a wet afternoon. Showers come quickly in the hills.

Day 5. The hill train toward Ella

2 stops · 141.4 km

A day on the famous railway through the tea hills, a famous ride on the island, and often late. Take a seat if you can get one, and treat the view as a bonus, not a promise. A short walk above Ella at the end, if the weather allows.

  1. Breakfast

    A light breakfast for the train

    Bread with an egg or a dhal, and a hot cup of tea, from a small cafe near the station. Keep the morning light, since the train may be a long ride.

    Local tip Take water and a snack for the ride. Tell the staff about any allergy before you buy.

  2. 1
    MorningCheck ahead

    The train from Kandy toward Ella

    The railway climbs from Kandy through tea estates, cuttings and small stations toward Ella. Seats often sell out and trains run late, so check ahead, book early if you can and keep the day free. Views depend on the weather.

    Go when Morning, on a day with nothing else fixed.

    Local tip Seats often sell out and trains run late, so check how to book before the day and keep the evening flexible. Do not lean out of an open door, and mind your bag at stations.

    The train from Kandy toward Ella, Colombo
    Photo: Chamal N, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  3. Lunch

    Snacks from the station vendors

    Vendors walk the platforms and the train with fried snacks, nuts, fruit and tea. A cheerful, noisy meal in the carriage, and a good way to taste the hills.

    Local tip Choose hot, freshly cooked items and tell the vendor about any nut or other allergy. Wash your hands first.

    Snacks from the station vendors
    Photo: Alex Munsell alexmunsell,… on Wikimedia Commons
    About 2 h 16 min by car141.4 km
  4. 2
    EveningWorth the time

    Little Adam's Peak

    A small peak above Ella, reached by a walk through tea bushes. The top gives a wide look over the valley if the cloud allows. It is an easy walk for most people, but go in daylight and take water.

    Go when Late afternoon, back down before dusk.

    Local tip The path is a gentle climb through tea bushes. Carry water, wear shoes with grip and go up in daylight. The view depends on cloud, so do not count on it.

  5. Dinner

    Egg hoppers

    A bowl-shaped hopper with an egg cooked in the middle, served with a spicy sambol and a curry. A simple supper in a small Ella cafe, light after a long day.

    Local tip Tell the staff about any egg allergy first, and ask for the sambol mild.

If it rains. Rain slows the hill railway and clouds hide the views, so do not count on any. Skip the peak walk in a downpour or on a slippery path, and rest in Ella. The train can be late, so keep the evening free.

Day 6. Ella's bridge and falls, then south to the sea

3 stops · 179.7 km

A slow morning in Ella, then a long road down from the hills to the south coast. A railway viaduct in the trees and a roadside waterfall, then a curved beach to rest on in the evening. The road winds and is slow, so do not add stops.

  1. Breakfast

    Roti with coconut sambol

    Flat, thick bread made with grated coconut and eaten with a hot sambol, common in the hills. A good start before the long road to the coast.

    Local tip The sambol is spicy, so try a little. Tell the staff about any allergy before you order.

    Roti with coconut sambol
    Photo: Famartin, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  2. 1
    MorningMind the trains

    Nine Arch Bridge

    A curved railway viaduct of stone and brick, standing in green forest and tea country near Ella. Trains cross only a few times a day, so check ahead. Stand well clear of the tracks and never walk on them when a train is near.

    Go when Morning, before the tour groups gather.

    Local tip The viaduct is a railway. Stay clear of the tracks, check when a train is due and never stand on the bridge as one approaches. Watch your footing on the wet path.

    Nine Arch Bridge, Colombo
    Photo: MichaelJames2468, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 9 min by car8.2 km
  3. 2
    MiddayWorth a short stop

    Ravana Falls

    A broad waterfall beside the road south of Ella. The flow depends on the season, from a thin curtain to a strong rush. View it from the roadside and do not swim; the rocks are slippery.

    Go when Midday, on the road toward the coast.

    Local tip Look from the roadside viewpoint and keep off the wet rocks. Do not swim. The flow changes with the season, so after a dry spell it may be thin.

  4. Lunch

    King coconut and a roadside snack

    A bright orange king coconut, cut open for you to drink, and fruit or a short eat from a stall on the road down from the hills. A cooling stop for a long drive.

    Local tip Ask for the coconut to be opened in front of you. Tell the seller about any allergy before you buy a snack.

    King coconut and a roadside snack
    Photo: Franz Eugen Köhler, Köhle… on Wikimedia Commons
    About 2 h 14 min by car171.5 km
  5. 3
    EveningWorth the time

    Mirissa

    A curved beach on the south coast. Sit on the sand with a drink and watch the light fade. The sea can be rough by season, with strong currents, so check the flags and ask locally before you swim.

    Go when Late afternoon, with the beach at its quietest around sunset.

    Local tip The sea can be rough by season, with strong currents. Read the flags, ask a local before you swim and keep to the shallow water if you are not sure.

    Mirissa, Colombo
    Photo: Ji-Elle, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  6. Dinner

    A sour fish curry on the coast

    A coastal dish of fish cooked with spices and a sour fruit until dry and dark, served with rice. The south coast is known for it, and small beach restaurants serve the day's catch.

    Local tip Tell the staff about any fish or shellfish allergy first. Ask about the heat, and pick a place where the fish is cooked in front of you.

If it rains. Stay off the viaduct and its tracks in rain. The road down from the hills is slow and winding in wet weather, so drop the falls if you are behind. A rough sea on the coast also means resting, not swimming.

Day 7. Galle Fort and the beach

3 stops · 42.5 km

A slow last day. A walk on the old walls of a Dutch fort by the sea, a lighthouse at the end of the walls and a beach to rest on in the afternoon. All flat and close together, with nothing you must finish before you go.

  1. Drive from MirissaAbout 32 min by car34.8 km
    Where Day 6 ended.
  2. Breakfast

    Curd and treacle

    Thick buffalo milk curd drizzled with kithul treacle, a dark syrup from a palm, often with a banana. A sweet, cool breakfast in the south.

    Local tip The curd is rich. Tell the staff about any milk allergy before you order.

  3. 1
    MorningWorth the time

    Galle Fort

    A walled town on a point by the sea, begun by the Portuguese and built up by the Dutch, with ramparts, narrow lanes, old churches and small shops. Walk the walls and the lanes in the cool of the morning.

    Go when Morning, when the lanes are cool, or the evening along the walls.

    Local tip Walk the walls first and the lanes after. Wear a hat and take water, since there is little shade on the ramparts. People live in the Fort, so keep your voice low in the quiet lanes.

    Galle Fort, Colombo
    Photo: Rovin Shanila, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  4. Lunch

    Seafood rice and curry in the Fort

    Rice with a fish curry, a prawn or crab curry and a few vegetable dishes, in one of the cafes in the lanes of the Fort. Light and fresh at midday.

    Local tip Tell the staff about any shellfish allergy first, and ask what is in each curry.

    About 3 min walk0.2 km
  5. 2
    MiddayWorth a short stop

    Galle Lighthouse

    A white lighthouse at the southern end of the Fort walls, next to the sea, and the oldest light station on the island. It is seen from outside. The point is the short walk along the walls, with the sea beside you.

    Go when Midday or evening, as a rest on the wall.

    Local tip It is seen from outside, at the end of the walls, so a short stop is enough. Watch your footing on the wall, and keep back from the edge when the sea is rough.

    About 9 min by car7.4 km
  6. 3
    AfternoonWorth the time

    Unawatuna

    A curved beach in a bay a short ride from Galle Fort. Rest in the shade, swim only where the sea is calm and the flags allow it, and leave before the light fades.

    Go when Afternoon, when the bay is calm and the shade is long.

    Local tip Swim only where the sea is calm and the flags allow it. Rinse off, cover up when you walk back into town and mind your bag on the sand.

    Unawatuna, Colombo
    Photo: Bernard Gagnon, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  7. Dinner

    Grilled fish by the beach

    Fish of the day, grilled and served with rice and salad or a spicy sambol, in a small beach cafe at the end of the day. Ask what came in that morning.

    Local tip Tell the staff about any fish or shellfish allergy first. Choose a place where the fish is cooked fresh and hot.

    Grilled fish by the beach
    Photo: www.elbpresse.de, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
If it rains. The Fort lanes are walkable between showers, with old churches and a museum for cover. Skip the walls in a storm and the beach if the flags are red. Keep the lighthouse for a dry hour.

Departure day

After the last day. You end on the south coast, far from the airport north of Colombo.Details
Getting to the airport
Day 7 ends near Galle, a long drive from the airport north of Colombo. Take the highway if you can, fix the plan the evening before and leave much more time than the map suggests, because traffic near the city slows everything.
The last morning
Keep the last morning free of fixed plans. A walk along the Fort walls or one more cup of Ceylon tea is enough. Many hotels will hold your bag if you ask, which helps if your flight is in the evening.
Taking things home
Tea and spices are easy to carry home. Check your own country's rules before you buy them, and do not buy anything made from turtle shell, ivory or other animal parts, which many countries ban at the border.

Questions people ask

How many days does this plan cover?

It covers 7 days in Colombo, planned for early February. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.

Who is this plan for?

It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.

Is anything on this plan booked?

No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.

Can I plan my own days like this?

Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.

Can I change this plan?

Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.

How much walking is there?

Each day has about 3.4 to 179.7 kilometers between its stops, and 413.2 kilometers in all across 7 days. A short hop is a walk and a longer one a ride. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.

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