2 days in Chiang Mai for Songkran, the water festival

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. 1
   AfternoonWhere the water is

   Tha Phae Gate

   The old brick gate on the east side of the old city and the center of the festival. A big stage and crowds usually gather here, and the arrangements and the dates change, so check ahead. Expect to be soaked within minutes.

   Go when Afternoon, with what you can get wet and nothing you cannot.

   Local tip Put your phone in a waterproof pouch and leave your valuables at the hotel. Close your eyes and mouth when the water comes, and never throw water at a monk, a baby or someone on a motorbike.

   

   About 8 min walk0.7 km
2. 2
   AfternoonWorth a short stop

   Three Kings Monument

   A bronze monument of three kings of the north, who are said to have founded the old city, in a square at its center. People leave flowers and incense. The moat that rings the old town is only a short walk away, and it is the focus of the next days.

   Go when Afternoon, when the square is calm.

   Local tip Look for the people leaving flowers and stand back while they do. It is a place of respect, so do not climb on the base.

   

3. Lunch

   Khao soi

   Egg noodles in a rich coconut curry broth, topped with crisp noodles, with pickled greens, shallots and a lime on the side. The best known dish of the north, found in small shops near the temples.

   Local tip Ask for it with chicken or beef, and tell the staff about any allergy. Add the lime and the pickles a little at a time.

   

   About 8 min walk0.6 km
4. 3
   EveningTake care of yourself

   The old city moat

   The wide moat around the old city, with a road beside it. In the festival people line the water with buckets, pumps and drums of water, and cars crawl along it. Some water comes from the moat itself, so keep your mouth and eyes closed.

   Go when Late afternoon, when the crowds are loudest.

   Local tip Do not ride a motorbike on the festival days, because many accidents happen. Keep the heat and the drinking in check, and say no to ice water in the face or to flour or powder in the face without your consent.

   

   About 9 min walk0.8 km
5. 4
   EveningWorth the time

   Warorot Market

   The big local market on the east side of the old town, where Chiang Mai shops for food, flowers and cloth. Before the festival it fills with shoppers buying what they need for the new year. Wander slowly and taste a little.

   Go when Late afternoon, when the stalls are busy with new year shoppers.

   Local tip Taste a little of the northern sausage and the chili dips. Ask before photographing a stallholder, and check ahead, because the market may be quiet on the festival days.

   

6. Dinner

   Sai oua and chili dips

   Northern herb sausage, grilled and sliced, with sticky rice, fresh vegetables and chili dips. A classic of the market stalls near Warorot.

   Local tip The sausage is spiced with chili and herbs, so ask how hot it is. Tell the staff about any pork allergy.

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. 1
   MorningCheck ahead

   Wat Phra Singh

   The most important temple in the old city, with a famous Buddha image that is often carried out for people to pour water on during the festival, though the arrangements change from year to year. Go early, when the merit-making is calm, and check ahead.

   Go when Early morning, for the quiet merit-making.

   Local tip Water is poured gently on Buddha images and on the hands of elders as a blessing, not thrown. Cover your shoulders and knees, take off your shoes and follow what the families do.

   

   About 7 min walk0.6 km
2. 2
   MorningWorth the time

   Wat Chedi Luang

   The great temple of the old city, with the ruin of a huge brick chedi that once stood far taller. Monks live and study here. Before the festival it is calm, and monks or caretakers may already be preparing the temple for the new year.

   Go when Morning, before the heat and the crowds.

   Local tip Walk around the great ruined chedi and look at the elephants carved on its sides. Take off your shoes at the hall and keep your voice low where monks pray.

   

   About 12 min by car or transit3.7 km
3. 3
   MiddayWorth the time

   Wat Umong

   A forest temple with old tunnels, a pond and shady paths, where monks still live and study. Cool and green, and often a quiet choice in the middle of the festival.

   Go when Midday, in the shade of the trees.

   Local tip Walk the paths to the tunnels and the pond. Monks live here, so keep your voice low and do not use the tunnels as a place for photographs.

   

   About 23 min by car15.9 km
4. 4
   AfternoonWorth the time

   Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

   The mountain temple on the hill above the city, up a long stair, with a golden chedi and a view over the plain. Dress modestly even in the heat, with shoulders and knees covered. The road up is busy, and haze can hide the view.

   Go when Late afternoon, when the light is softer.

   Local tip Climb the stair on foot if you can, and then walk once around the golden chedi in the direction the other visitors go. The road is busy at festival time, so choose a car or red truck over a motorbike.

   

5. Dinner

   Grilled fish with herbs

   A whole fish grilled in a crust of salt with lemongrass inside, served with a sharp dipping sauce and greens. Restaurants in the west of the city serve it under a roof.

   Local tip Tell the staff about any fish or shellfish allergy first, and watch for small bones.