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Stykkisholmur, West Iceland: 8 days on Snaefellsnes and in the WestfjordsPhoto: Bob T, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
Adventure ThrillOff the Beaten Path FindTrip idea · Stykkisholmur, West Iceland

8 days on Snaefellsnes and in the Westfjords

Eight days by rental car in the west of Iceland: the Snaefellsnes peninsula, a ferry across Breidafjordur, then the cliffs, waterfalls and fjords of the Westfjords, and the long road back to Reykjavik. Many roads are gravel, so keep every day loose.

8 daysAnyoneEarly July26 places
Copy this plan to your own trips, then change anything you like.
Stykkisholmur
Photo: Gordon Leggett, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
How many days?Pick yours and the plan rearranges.

Best time to go

July to August are the most comfortable months for walking around.
  1. Jan
  2. Feb
  3. Mar
  4. Apr
  5. May
  6. Jun
  7. Jul
  8. Aug
  9. Sep
  10. Oct
  11. Nov
  12. Dec

Arrival day

Before Day 1. The loop starts north of the capital, so use the first hours to collect the car and settle into the long light.Details
Landing at Keflavik
The international airport is at Keflavik, on the Reykjanes peninsula. Buses and taxis run to Reykjavik, but Borgarnes lies north of the capital, so you can collect a rental car at the airport and start from there without staying in the city.
The rental car
Book early and read the rental terms on gravel roads, river crossings and wind damage before you sign. Many roads on this loop are gravel, and roads marked F are mountain tracks that an ordinary rental car does not belong on. Never drive off the road.
Roads, weather and the season
Weather changes fast here, and some mountain roads and tracks are closed in winter. Check the road conditions at road.is and the safety advice at safetravel.is every morning, and be ready to change the day.
First evening
Keep it short: an easy drive, a walk in the open air and an early night. Day 1 begins at Borgarnes, with the peninsula ahead, so fuel up and buy snacks before you leave the larger towns.

Day 1. Borgarnes and the south coast of Snaefellsnes

4 stops · 130.8 km

An easy first drive. A fjord town on the way, then the south coast of the peninsula, with a coastal path between two villages and a pair of basalt pillars on the sea.

  1. 1
    MorningA fuel and snack stop

    Borgarnes

    A small town on a spit of land in a fjord, a natural stop to stretch your legs and fuel up before the peninsula. Walk by the water and look at the view of the mountains across the bay.

    Go when Morning, before you head out onto the peninsula.

    Local tip Fill the tank and buy supplies here. Services on the peninsula and in the Westfjords are further apart than they look on the map.

    Borgarnes, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: Wolfgang Sauber, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 1 h 23 min by car119.7 km
  2. 2
    AfternoonWorth the time

    Arnarstapi

    A tiny fishing village on a rocky shore, with a statue, basalt cliffs and a sea arch. Walk out along the cliff edge on the path and watch the seabirds.

    Go when Early afternoon, once you have eaten.

    Local tip Walk the cliff path east and west of the village to see the arch and the nesting birds. Stay well back from the edge and keep dogs and children close.

    Arnarstapi, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: Steinninn, CC BY 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  3. Lunch

    A bowl of fish soup

    A creamy fish soup, served with a slice of dark bread. A warm, simple lunch after the cool air on the cliffs.

    Local tip Ask for the soup of the day, and have a second bowl if you are hungry.

    About 10 min by car or transit2.4 km
  4. 3
    AfternoonWorth a short walk

    Hellnar

    A hamlet under bird cliffs at the end of a coastal path from Arnarstapi. The path crosses a lava field above the sea. Check ahead on its condition, and walk it only in decent weather.

    Go when Afternoon, walking from Arnarstapi on a calm day.

    Local tip Check ahead on the state of the coastal path before you start, and drive the road between the villages if the wind is strong.

    Hellnar, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: Steinninn, CC BY 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 7 min by car8.7 km
  5. 4
    EveningWorth the time

    Londrangar

    Two tall basalt towers rising from the shore, the remains of an old volcanic crater. A short walk from the road leads to a viewpoint above the sea cliffs.

    Go when Late in the day, when the low light catches the rock.

    Local tip Walk to the viewpoint and look down on the towers from above. Keep to the path, because the cliff edge is loose.

    Londrangar, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: Salvör Gissurardóttir on Wikimedia Commons
  6. Dinner

    Icelandic lamb soup

    Kjotsupa is a lamb soup with root vegetables and rice, a comfort food that Icelanders eat all year. Look for it at a small cafe or guesthouse.

    Local tip Order a bowl and a slice of bread, and ask for a refill if it is on offer.

If it rains. Keep the drive and skip the long cliff walk, which is slippery in the rain. The basalt towers are still worth a look from the viewpoint.

Day 2. The glacier and the north coast

4 stops · 65.2 km

The heart of the peninsula, where a volcano sits under a cap of ice. A black beach, a shell beach and a famous mountain by the sea, with the roads in between.

  1. Drive from LondrangarAbout 6 min by car6.6 km
    Where Day 1 ended.
  2. 1
    MorningWorth the time

    Djupalonssandur

    A black pebble beach in a bay of lava, with four old lifting stones. Fishermen once lifted them to show that they were strong enough for the boats, and visitors still try the lighter ones.

    Go when Morning, when the beach is quiet.

    Local tip Try the lighter stones with a straight back and care. Leave the beach as you found it, including the iron pieces from an old wreck.

    About 20 min by car or transit7.8 km
  3. 2
    MiddayBest on a clear day

    Snaefellsjokull

    A volcano capped with a glacier at the tip of the peninsula, the setting for the start of a famous Jules Verne novel. The ice is best seen from the road on a clear day, since clouds often hide the summit.

    Go when Midday, if the summit is out of the cloud.

    Local tip View the ice from the road and from a short walk. Walking on the glacier itself is for guided groups only, so check ahead.

    Snaefellsjokull, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: Axel Kristinsson, CC BY 2.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  4. Lunch

    An Icelandic hot dog

    A hot dog on a soft bun, a national snack. Order it with everything, which means fried onions, raw onions, ketchup, sweet mustard and a remoulade sauce.

    Local tip Ask for "one with everything" at a roadside kiosk.

    About 32 min by car or transit16.5 km
  5. 3
    AfternoonWorth a short stop

    Skardsvik

    A pale beach of crushed shell near the tip of the peninsula, a surprise among the black sand coasts. Check ahead on the gravel road that leads there.

    Go when Afternoon, when the sand glows against the lava.

    Local tip Check ahead on the road in, which is gravel, and walk the beach slowly, because the wind can pick up quickly.

    About 45 min by car34.3 km
  6. 4
    EveningWorth the time

    Kirkjufell

    A pointed, church-shaped mountain by the sea with a small waterfall in front of it. Walk the short path to the fall and look back at the peak.

    Go when Evening, when the light is low.

    Local tip The famous photograph is taken from the small bridge below the falls. Do not climb the mountain, which is steep and loose.

    Kirkjufell, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: Anjali Kiggal, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  7. Dinner

    Plokkfiskur

    A comforting mash of white fish, potatoes and onion in a white sauce, served warm with rye bread. The kind of dish a grandmother makes.

    Local tip Eat it with a slice of buttered rye bread, which is the classic way.

If it rains. Fog often hides the glacier. Keep the black beach and the mountain, which look dramatic in rain, and skip the climb on foot.

Day 3. Stykkisholmur and across the bay

3 stops · 82.6 km

A slow morning in a harbor town, then the ferry across the wide bay to the Westfjords. The ferry is the day, so take a good book, a hat and a coat.

  1. Drive from KirkjufellAbout 42 min by car30.9 km
    Where Day 2 ended.
  2. 1
    MorningWorth a short walk

    Stykkisholmur

    A harbor village of painted wooden houses on the north shore of the peninsula, with small islands in the bay. Walk the waterfront and the lanes behind it before you board.

    Go when Morning, before the ferry.

    Local tip Walk to the small headland by the harbor for a view across the bay to the islands and the ferry you are about to take.

  3. Treat

    A bowl of skyr

    Skyr is a thick, tangy dairy food, like a very creamy yogurt. Eat it with berries and a little sugar for a light snack before the ferry.

    Local tip Buy it at a shop and bring a spoon.

    Crosses water. Check ferry times.34.3 km
  4. 2
    MiddayCheck ahead on the ferry

    Flatey

    A tiny island in Breidafjordur with old wooden houses, no cars and a lot of birdlife. The ferry may call here on its way across. Reserve ahead and check the season and the route.

    Go when Midday, on a day with calm water.

    Local tip Reserve your place ahead and check the season and the route, since the ferry does not always call at the island. Take your own food.

    Flatey, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: Kolbrún Ragna on Wikimedia Commons
  5. Dinner

    Fresh cod with potatoes

    Cod is the staple of the Icelandic table, simply boiled or pan-fried, with potatoes and butter. A plain, good dinner on a harbor.

    Local tip Ask what the boats brought in that day.

    Crosses water. Check ferry times.17.4 km
  6. 3
    EveningA fuel stop

    Brjanslaekur

    The landing on the southern shore of the Westfjords where the ferry arrives. The road ahead is long and the services are few, so top up the tank before you leave.

    Go when Evening, when the ferry arrives.

    Local tip Fuel up before you drive on. The stretches ahead are long, and the next station may be far away.

If it rains. The ferry runs in most weather, but rough seas can change the sailings. Check ahead, and keep the island for a calm day.

Day 4. Cliffs and red sand

3 stops · 81.2 km

The far southwest of the Westfjords. A fjord town, a wide red beach and the great bird cliffs at the western edge. The roads here are long, so start early.

  1. Drive from BrjanslaekurAbout 53 min by car44.5 km
    Where Day 3 ended.
  2. 1
    MorningA fuel and supply stop

    Patreksfjordur

    A small town on a fjord, a base for this corner of the region. Fill the tank here and get supplies for the day, because services get scarce on the roads beyond.

    Go when Morning, before the long drive west.

    Local tip Buy water and food here for the whole day, and check the weather before you set out for the cliffs.

    Patreksfjordur, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: Brad Weber, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  3. Treat

    Hardfiskur with butter

    Hardfiskur is dried fish, torn into pieces and eaten with butter. A chewy, salty snack that Icelanders have eaten for centuries.

    Local tip Spread butter on each piece and keep a bag in the car for the long roads.

    About 30 min by car or transit13.9 km
  4. 2
    MiddayWorth the time

    Raudasandur

    A very long beach with sand of a rosy color from crushed shells, reached by a winding gravel road over a pass. The tide changes the whole look of the shore. Check ahead on the road.

    Go when Midday, with the tide going out.

    Local tip Check ahead on the gravel road over the pass, drive slowly and watch for sheep. Fog can close the road quickly.

    Raudasandur, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: Xypete, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  5. Lunch

    Smoked char on rye bread

    Arctic char, smoked and laid on dark rye bread with a little butter. A light lunch to eat on a bench with a view of the sea.

    Local tip Take it with you in a bag, because there are few places to eat on the road ahead.

    About 36 min by car or transit22.8 km
  6. 3
    AfternoonWorth the time

    Latrabjarg

    Huge sea cliffs at the westernmost point of Iceland, crowded with seabirds, with puffins in the season. The edges are unprotected and crumbly, so stay back from them and keep children close.

    Go when Afternoon, in a spell of clear weather.

    Local tip The edges are unprotected and crumbly. Keep well back, never lean over for a photograph, keep children close, and mind the wind.

    Latrabjarg, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: Progresschrome, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
If it rains. Fog and rain make the gravel roads and the cliff edge unsafe. Skip the cliffs in poor weather, and wait for a clear spell instead.

Day 5. Hot water, a waterfall and the fjords

3 stops · 102.5 km

A day of fjords. A natural hot pool by the shore, a waterfall that falls in steps and a small village at the end of a long drive. Few services, so carry water and food.

  1. Drive from LatrabjargAbout 1 h 4 min by car60.4 km
    Where Day 4 ended.
  2. 1
    MorningA natural soak

    Flokalundur hot spring

    A small natural hot pool by the shore of a fjord, with very simple facilities. Check ahead on the rules, bring a towel and a bag for wet clothes, and test the water before you step in.

    Go when Morning, before the road gets long.

    Local tip Test the water with your hand before you step in, since natural pools can be hotter or colder than they look. Leave no litter.

    About 35 min by car or transit21.6 km
  3. 2
    MiddayWorth the time

    Dynjandi

    A waterfall that falls in several steps and fans out wide at the bottom, the grandest in the Westfjords. A path climbs beside the lower falls. The rocks are wet, so take care.

    Go when Midday, when the spray catches the sun.

    Local tip Walk up the path beside the lower falls, and take care on the wet rock. The road over the mountain is closed in winter, so check ahead.

    Dynjandi, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: Diego Delso, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  4. Lunch

    A picnic of bread and cheese

    Pack rye bread, cheese, fruit and a flask for the road. In the Westfjords services are far apart, and a picnic by a fjord is a pleasure.

    Local tip Buy supplies the evening before, and bring more water than you think you need.

    About 35 min by car or transit20.5 km
  5. 3
    AfternoonA quiet village stop

    Thingeyri

    A small village on a fjord with old buildings and a quiet harbor, a place to rest before the next stretch of road. Fuel up and buy snacks if the shop is open.

    Go when Late afternoon, before the next stretch of road.

    Local tip Walk along the harbor and look at the old buildings. It is a good place for a coffee and to check the weather ahead.

    Thingeyri, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: AgainErick, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  6. Dinner

    Slow-cooked lamb

    Icelandic lamb grazes freely in the hills and is known for its flavor. Look for it roasted or slow-cooked, with root vegetables.

    Local tip Ask for it simply cooked, and share a dessert of skyr.

If it rains. Rain makes the waterfall louder and the rock slick. Keep the falls, take it slowly, and skip the outdoor pool if it is cold.

Day 6. Isafjordur and the arctic fox

3 stops · 69.9 km

The largest town of the Westfjords, tucked between steep mountains, and a day by the water. A boat trip to an island and a village with a small centre on the arctic fox.

  1. Drive from ThingeyriAbout 38 min by car48.4 km
    Where Day 5 ended.
  2. 1
    MorningWorth the time

    Isafjordur

    The main town of the Westfjords, on a narrow spit of land beneath steep mountains. Walk through the old part with its small wooden houses and down to the harbor.

    Go when Morning, before the boat trip.

    Local tip Walk the old part of town and the harbor, and ask locally about the weather before you plan the boat.

  3. Lunch

    Cod cheeks

    Cod cheeks are a small, tender cut that fishing towns treasure. Lightly fried in butter, they are a favorite of locals.

    Local tip Ask for the fish of the day, which is often cod or haddock.

    By boat, about 30 min13.6 km
    Options

    BoatVigur trips leave from Isafjordur harbour a few times a week, about May to August. The whole trip takes about 3 hours. Visiting Vigur

  4. 2
    MiddayA boat trip

    Vigur

    A small island in the fjord with a puffin colony and many eider ducks, reached by a short boat trip. Check ahead on the season and the sailings, and stay on the marked paths.

    Go when Midday, on a calm day.

    Local tip Check ahead on the season and the sailings. Arctic terns nest on the paths and may dive at your head, so wear a hat and stay on the marked route.

    Vigur, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: Bromr, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    By boat back, then by road7.9 km
    Options

    BoatThere is no boat to Sudavik, so the trip goes back to Isafjordur.

    RoadSudavik is then a few minutes by road.

  5. 3
    AfternoonWorth a short stop

    Sudavik

    A village on the fjord with a small centre about the arctic fox, the only land mammal that Iceland had before people arrived. Check ahead on whether it is open.

    Go when Afternoon, on the way back along the fjord.

    Local tip The small centre on the arctic fox is a good short stop. Check ahead on whether it is open.

    Sudavik, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: Steinninn, CC BY-SA 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  6. Dinner

    Fish of the day

    In a fishing town the catch changes daily, so ask what came in. It is usually cod, haddock or plaice, simply cooked with potatoes.

    Local tip Ask the staff what they would have, and trust the answer.

If it rains. Boat trips are often cancelled in rough weather. Keep the town and the village, and ask locally about the boat.

Day 7. South by the Strandir coast

3 stops · 406.9 kmAbout 4 h 44 min driving

A long day on the road. The wild Strandir coast, a village with a museum of sorcery and a pair of waterfalls on the way south. Fuel up whenever you see a station.

  1. Drive from SudavikAbout 2 h 25 min by car203.9 km
    Where Day 6 ended.
  2. 1
    MiddayWorth a short stop

    Holmavik

    A small village on the Strandir coast with a museum devoted to Icelandic witchcraft and sorcery. Check ahead on whether it is open, and fuel up here.

    Go when Morning, on the drive south.

    Local tip The museum of witchcraft is small and unusual. Check ahead on whether it is open, and fuel up before you drive on.

  3. Lunch

    Rye bread baked in the ground

    Rugbraud is a dense, slightly sweet rye bread, traditionally baked in the hot ground near a spring. Eat it with butter and a slice of smoked fish.

    Local tip Buy a loaf for the road, and keep it for breakfast.

    About 2 h 3 min by car179.8 km
  4. 2
    AfternoonWorth the time

    Hraunfossar

    A long line of small waterfalls pouring out of the edge of a lava field into a milky river. A short path runs along the top of the falls, with the rapids of Barnafoss a little way upstream.

    Go when Afternoon, when the light is soft on the water.

    Local tip Walk the path along the top of the falls and then go upstream to the rapids. Stay on the path, because the banks are slippery.

    Hraunfossar, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: Reykholt, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
    About 16 min by car23.2 km
  5. 3
    EveningWorth a short stop

    Deildartunguhver

    One of the most powerful hot springs in Europe, steaming beside the road and piped to nearby towns. Stay behind the rail, because the water is scalding.

    Go when Evening, on the way to the coast.

    Local tip Stay behind the rail. The water is near boiling point and the steam can hide the edge.

    Deildartunguhver, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: Nojhan, CC BY-SA 3.0 on Wikimedia Commons
  6. Dinner

    A farm supper

    Many farms along the way serve a simple supper made with their own lamb, fish, potatoes or vegetables. Eat what is on the table.

    Local tip Book ahead, because the places are small and the road is long.

If it rains. A long day of driving. Keep to the main roads in poor weather, and stop for a rest at every station.

Day 8. A slow last day back to Reykjavik

3 stops · 90.5 km

A short drive on the last day, with time to spare. A quiet fjord, the old harbor in the capital and a last coffee before the airport.

  1. Drive from DeildartunguhverAbout 57 min by car60.3 km
    Where Day 7 ended.
  2. 1
    MorningA quiet drive

    Hvalfjordur

    A long, quiet fjord north of Reykjavik with a coast road around its head. A calm drive and a last look at the mountains and the water.

    Go when Morning, with no hurry.

    Local tip Take the road around the fjord rather than the tunnel if you have time, and look for the quiet bays along the water.

  3. Lunch

    Langoustine soup

    A rich, orange soup made with langoustine, the small sea lobster of Icelandic waters. A warming lunch on a cool day.

    Local tip Dip dark bread in it, and order a small bowl first.

    About 41 min by car28.9 km
  4. 2
    AfternoonA place to sit

    Reykjavik Old Harbour

    The working harbor of the capital, with fishing boats at the docks and small cafes along the quay. A good place for a slow last coffee.

    Go when Afternoon, for a slow last coffee.

    Local tip Walk the quay and look at the boats, then find a table by the window and let the day end slowly.

  5. Treat

    A last coffee and a pastry

    A cup of coffee and a warm pastry is the usual way to end a morning in the capital. Sit by a window and look at the boats.

    Local tip Take your time. There is nothing else to do today.

    About 16 min walk1.3 km
  6. 3
    EveningWorth a short look

    Hallgrimskirkja

    The tall church that rises over the capital, with a stepped front that echoes the basalt columns of the coast. Walk around the base and take in the view down the hill.

    Go when Late afternoon, before you head for the airport.

    Local tip The church can be seen from many streets. If you go into the tower, check ahead on when it is open.

    Hallgrimskirkja, Stykkisholmur
    Photo: Steinninn, CC BY 4.0 on Wikimedia Commons
If it rains. An easy day. Take the coast road around the fjord if the view is clear, and the tunnel if it is not.

Departure day

After the last day. The loop ends in Reykjavik, so plan the way to the airport the night before.Details
Returning the car
Fill the tank and check the car for scratches, chips and stone marks before you hand it back, since gravel leaves its marks. Take photographs and keep your rental paperwork.
To the airport
The airport is out on the Reykjanes peninsula, well outside Reykjavik. Buses and taxis make the trip, and a flight in the morning is easier if you sleep the last night near the airport.
Leave room for weather
Fog and wind can slow the roads on the last day. If you are driving south from the Westfjords for a morning flight, add a full day of buffer in the plan and do not leave the last stretch to chance.

Questions people ask

When is the best time to visit Stykkisholmur?

By average weather from 2021 to 2025, July to August are the most comfortable months for walking around Stykkisholmur. This plan is built for early July, which is one of the best months. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.

How many days does this plan cover?

It covers 8 days in Stykkisholmur, planned for early July. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.

Who is this plan for?

It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.

Is anything on this plan booked?

No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.

Can I plan my own days like this?

Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.

Can I change this plan?

Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.

How much walking is there?

Each day has about 21.5 to 203.0 kilometers between its stops, and 574.7 kilometers in all across 8 days. A short hop is a walk and a longer one a ride. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.

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