2 days in Siem Reap and Angkor

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   Angkor Wat

   The largest temple of the Khmer Empire, built in the twelfth century and ringed by a wide moat. A long stone causeway leads to five towers and galleries of carved scenes. Go early: it is cooler, and the causeway is quieter before the tour groups.

   Go when First thing in the morning, before the heat and the tour groups.

   Local tip Cover your shoulders and knees. Walk the galleries of carved scenes slowly and take the upper stairs only if you feel steady, as they are steep. Children and sellers may ask you to buy: a smile and a calm "no thank you" is enough.

   

   About 12 min by car or transit3.5 km
2. 2
   MorningWorth the time

   Ta Prohm

   A twelfth century monastery left partly as the forest found it, with huge trees growing over the towers and walls. Go early, because the most photographed doorways fill up. Paths are uneven and stones can be loose.

   Go when Early morning, to see the trees before the crowds.

   Local tip Stay on the marked paths and do not climb on the walls or roots. Children and sellers may call out: a smile and "no thank you" is a kind and complete answer.

   

3. Lunch

   Khmer curry

   A mild, fragrant curry of chicken or fish with coconut milk, lemongrass and potato, eaten with rice or a baguette. Less hot than a Thai curry, and a comfortable lunch after a morning of temples.

   Local tip Ask how spicy it is before you order, and tell the staff about any allergy first.

   About 14 min walk1.1 km
4. 3
   MiddayWorth a short visit

   Banteay Kdei

   A large Buddhist monastery of the late twelfth century with long galleries and gateways, often much quieter than Ta Prohm across the road. A calm place to slow the day down.

   Go when Midday, when the corridors are shady and quieter.

   Local tip Walk the long line of gateways and galleries at an easy pace. Across the road is the pool of Srah Srang, which suits a short rest.

   

   About 13 min by car or transit4.5 km
5. 4
   AfternoonWorth the time

   Bayon

   The temple at the center of Angkor Thom, with towers carved with great smiling faces, built at the end of the twelfth century. The outer galleries show battles and scenes of daily life. Come after the midday rest, when the heat eases.

   Go when Mid to late afternoon, once you have rested and the heat has eased.

   Local tip Look at the faces from a few places, near and far, because they change. Walk the outer gallery for the scenes of boats, markets and battles. Mind the steps, which are worn and uneven.

   

   About 10 min by car or transit2.7 km
6. 5
   AfternoonWorth the time

   Preah Khan

   A twelfth century temple city with long, straight corridors, gateways and carved doorways, some held up by tree roots. It is a walk from one end to the other, so take it slowly and carry water.

   Go when Afternoon, as the light softens in the corridors.

   Local tip Walk it from one gate to the other along the straight corridors and carry water. The stones are uneven, so watch your step and keep to the paths.

   

   About 13 min by car or transit4.5 km
7. 6
   EveningCrowded at sunset

   Phnom Bakheng

   A temple on a hilltop between Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, from the end of the ninth century, with a view over the forest and the towers of Angkor Wat. The hill is a popular place to watch the sun go down, and it gets crowded. The climb is on a worn path and steps.

   Go when Around sunset, or go earlier when it is quieter.

   Local tip The hill gets crowded for the sunset, and numbers at the top may be limited, so check ahead and go early to claim a place. Keep a torch or a phone light for the walk down.

   

8. Dinner

   Lok lak

   Cubes of beef stir fried quickly in a peppery sauce and served on lettuce and tomato with rice and a dip of lime and pepper. A well loved Khmer dinner.

   Local tip Say if you want less pepper, and tell the staff about any allergy first, since the sauce has several ingredients.

   

Built from the plan’s must-sees, grouped so each day stays close together and ordered by time of day.

1. Drive from Phnom BakhengAbout 45 min by car33.9 km

   Where Day 1 ended.
2. 1
   MorningA forest walk, check ahead

   Kbal Spean

   A river that runs over its sandstone bed, carved long ago with figures and rows of lingas. A forest path climbs to it, and the walk is uphill and uneven, so go early while it is cooler. Check ahead that the path is open and what the water is doing.

   Go when Early morning, so the walk uphill is in the cool.

   Local tip Wear shoes with grip and carry water, as the path is uphill and uneven. Cambodia still has unexploded mines in some countryside, so stay on the marked path and do not wander off it. Check ahead that the path is open.

   

   About 26 min by car or transit11.3 km
3. 2
   MiddayWorth the time

   Banteay Srei

   A small tenth century temple of pink sandstone, famous for its deep, fine carving of gods and leaves. It is small, so a short visit is plenty, and it is best before the tour buses arrive.

   Go when Late morning, or earlier if you can, before the tour buses.

   Local tip Look closely at the carving on the doorways and the walls: the detail is the whole point. The temple is small, so a short visit is plenty.

   

4. Lunch

   Fried noodles

   Noodles fried with vegetables and egg or meat, from the simple restaurants and stalls near the temple. A filling, plain lunch on a long road day.

   Local tip Ask for it without egg or meat if you prefer, and tell the staff about any allergy before you order.

   

5. Dinner

   Khmer sour soup

   A clear, tangy soup of fish or chicken with tamarind, pineapple, herbs and vegetables, served with rice. Light and refreshing after a hot, long day.

   Local tip Tell the staff about any allergy before you order, since the base stock can contain fish.