3 days of mansions, sea cliffs and a river of fire

The Newport that people come for. A mansion of the Gilded Age on the cliffs, a second one built of marble, then the public path along the shore that looks back at them, and an evening on a point of open ocean.

1. Breakfast

   Johnnycakes

   Thin griddled cakes of cornmeal, a Rhode Island breakfast, served hot with butter or syrup, in a cafe in town before the mansions.

   Local tip Order them hot and split a plate, since they are small and plain.
2. 1
   MorningIndoor

   The Breakers

   A Gilded Age mansion built between 1893 and 1895 as a summer home for Cornelius Vanderbilt II, set on cliffs over the ocean in the Renaissance Revival style. Entry is ticketed, so check ahead on tickets and on the times for the house and grounds.

   Go when Morning, as an indoor stop, before the day warms up.

   Local tip Look at the ocean side of the house as well as the rooms. Tickets are set by the owner and some days sell out, so check ahead. There are stairs inside.

   

   About 13 min walk0.6 mi
3. 2
   MiddayIndoor

   Marble House

   A mansion on Bellevue Avenue, built from 1888 to 1892 for Alva and William Kissam Vanderbilt in the Beaux Arts style, with a temple front that has been compared to the White House. It is run as a museum, so check ahead on entry.

   Go when Midday, as an indoor stop.

   Local tip Look at the temple front from the drive before you go in, then follow the rooms at your own pace. Check ahead on entry and on when the house is open.

   

4. Lunch

   A lobster roll

   Chunks of lobster meat in a soft split roll, served cold with a little mayonnaise or warm with butter, found at a harbor stand or a small place by the water.

   Local tip A roll is a light lunch before an afternoon walk. Check ahead on where the lobster comes from, and ask which style the place does.

   

   About 8 min walk0.4 mi
5. 3
   Afternoon

   Cliff Walk

   A public path along the shore, a National Recreation Trail, with views of The Breakers, Marble House and other mansions from the water side and out over the bay. It has several access points, and parts are narrow and uneven, so wear shoes with grip and check ahead on closures.

   Go when Afternoon, in the softer light (about 7:27 PM).

   Local tip You can walk a short stretch or a long one, since there are several places to join. Parts are narrow and uneven and the edge is close, so wear shoes with grip, keep to the path and check ahead on closures. Take it slowly in wind or rain.

   

   About 14 min by car or transit3.0 mi
6. 4
   Evening

   Brenton Point State Park

   A state park at the southwestern tip of the island, with wide views of the ocean where it meets the bay. Bring a layer for the wind, sit on the grass and stay for the light.

   Go when Late afternoon into evening (about 7:27 PM), as the light softens.

   Local tip Bring a jacket, since the wind off the ocean is cooler than the town. Sit on the grass and watch the water. Keep back from the rocks at the edge, and leave while there is still light.

   

7. Dinner

   Stuffed quahogs

   A large hard-shell clam, chopped and mixed with breadcrumbs and herbs, baked in its own shell, a Rhode Island seafood supper to share.

   Local tip Squeeze lemon over it and eat with a fork. One each is a light start, two is a supper.

A softer day. A mansion with formal gardens, a synagogue of 1763 in the old town, a long public beach with a view of the cliffs, then the stone fort at the mouth of the harbor for the evening.

1. Travel from Brenton Point State ParkAbout 14 min by car or transit3.1 mi

   Where Day 1 ended.
2. Breakfast

   Doughnuts and coffee

   A fresh doughnut and a hot coffee from a bakery counter in town, a plain breakfast before the gardens.

   Local tip Choose a cake doughnut if you want something plain, and eat it warm.
3. 1
   MorningIndoor

   The Elms

   A mansion on Bellevue Avenue finished in 1901 for the coal baron Edward Julius Berwind, modeled on a French chateau, with gardens and grounds laid out for it. Walk the grounds slowly, and check ahead on entry for the house.

   Go when Morning, with the gardens before the day warms up.

   Local tip Give the grounds as much time as the house. Walk the garden paths and look back at the front. Check ahead on entry for the house and on any limits on the gardens.

   

   About 16 min walk0.8 mi
4. 2
   MiddayIndoor

   Touro Synagogue

   A synagogue built in 1763 in the old town, said to be the oldest synagogue building still standing in the United States. It is a place of worship and a historic site, so dress modestly, keep your voice low and check ahead on visits.

   Go when Midday, as an indoor stop.

   Local tip It is a working place of worship and a National Historic Site. Dress modestly, keep your voice low and do not photograph where you are asked not to. Check ahead on visits, since they are set by the congregation.

   

5. Lunch

   Clam cakes and clear chowder

   Fried balls of batter with chopped clams, eaten with clear Rhode Island chowder, a broth of clams and potatoes without cream or tomato, a plain seaside lunch.

   Local tip Dunk the clam cake in the broth, and eat both while they are hot.

   About 20 min walk1.0 mi
6. 3
   Afternoon

   Easton's Beach

   The largest public beach in Newport, also called First Beach, with a view along the shore toward the Cliff Walk. Walk the sand, take off your shoes and sit. Check ahead on swimming conditions before you go in the water.

   Go when Afternoon, with a layer for the wind (about 7:27 PM).

   Local tip A long, open beach with the Cliff Walk in view at one end. Take off your shoes and walk the water line. Check ahead on swimming conditions and flags before you go in, and take a jacket.

   

7. Dinner

   Rhode Island calamari

   Squid rings, fried crisp and tossed with sliced hot peppers, a Rhode Island way to serve them, shared at the table.

   Local tip The peppers add heat, so ask for them mild or on the side, and squeeze lemon over the plate.

   About 12 min by car or transit2.3 mi
8. 4
   Evening

   Fort Adams State Park

   A public park around Fort Adams, a large coastal fortification at the harbor mouth, active from 1841 into the 1900s. Walk the grounds and the shore for views over the water and the harbor, and check ahead on tours of the fort.

   Go when Evening (about 7:27 PM), when the light turns gold on the water.

   Local tip Walk the grounds and the shore for the harbor views. Tours of the fort run on set days, so check ahead. There is little shade and a steady wind, so bring a layer.

   

A drive to Providence for the day. A library on Benefit Street, the Italian American neighborhood of Federal Hill, the dome of the State House, and an evening of fires on the river on selected evenings in the season, check the dates ahead.

1. Drive from Fort Adams State ParkAbout 49 min by car24.3 mi

   Where Day 2 ended.
2. Breakfast

   Coffee milk and a pastry

   Milk sweetened with coffee syrup, a Rhode Island favorite, with a pastry from a counter near the college streets.

   Local tip Order the coffee milk cold, and try it once. It is sweet and light.
3. 1
   MorningIndoor

   Providence Athenaeum

   A subscription library on Benefit Street, founded in 1836, in a building open to the public. Walk the reading rooms and the shelves, then stroll the old houses of College Hill outside. Check ahead on when it is open.

   Go when Morning, as an indoor stop.

   Local tip Walk the reading rooms and the shelves, then step outside onto Benefit Street and look at the old houses. The library is open to the public to look around, but the books are for members. Check ahead on when it is open.

   

   About 21 min walk1.1 mi
4. 2
   Midday

   Federal Hill

   The neighborhood west of downtown that has been the center of the Italian American community of Providence since the late 1800s, with Italian markets and restaurants along Atwells Avenue. Walk the avenue and the side streets, and browse a market or a bakery window.

   Go when Midday, then wander the side streets.

   Local tip Walk Atwells Avenue end to end and look in the windows of the markets and bakeries. Lunch here is a plate of Italian American food. Parking is tight at busy times, so a short ride from downtown can be easier.

   

5. Lunch

   A grinder

   A long roll filled with Italian cold cuts, cheese, lettuce, tomato and oil, a New England name for a sandwich on a long roll, found along Atwells Avenue.

   Local tip One grinder is often enough for two, so split it and add fruit or a coffee.

   About 16 min walk0.8 mi
6. 3
   AfternoonIndoor

   Rhode Island State House

   The capitol of Rhode Island, a neoclassical building by McKim, Mead and White with a large stone dome, topped by a gilded statue called the Independent Man. It is a working government building, so check ahead on entry and tours.

   Go when Afternoon, as an indoor stop.

   Local tip Look at the dome from the lawn first, then ask whether you can go inside. It is a working government building, so check ahead on entry and tours.

   

7. Dinner

   Pasta with red sauce

   A plate of pasta in a tomato sauce, in the Italian American style of Federal Hill, before the fires.

   Local tip Eat early and then walk down to the river, since the paths fill up.

   About 12 min walk0.6 mi
8. 4
   Evening

   WaterFire Providence

   An art installation on the rivers of downtown Providence, with burning braziers, some on the water, held on selected evenings in the season, so check the dates ahead. Walk the river paths near Waterplace Park once the fires are lit. The paths fill up, so arrive early.

   Go when Evening (about 7:27 PM), on selected evenings in the season, check the dates ahead.

   Local tip Walk the river paths as the braziers are lit and the paths fill. Arrive early, stay together and keep off the edge. Check the dates ahead, since the fires are held on selected evenings only.