4 days from Faulkner's Oxford to the Delta and Natchez
Four days through the history of Mississippi, south by car. Start in Oxford with a university campus and the house of William Faulkner, then drive to the Delta for the blues and the Emmett Till story, on to Jackson and the siege park at Vicksburg, and end in Natchez on the Trace. Hard history is told plainly here.
4 daysAbout 1.3 mi on foot a dayApril to May15 places
Copy this plan to your own trips, then change anything you like.
HappeningMild, and busy in the Delta and Natchez. Clarksdale usually holds a juke joint festival and Oxford an arts festival (dates vary). Storms are common, so check the forecast daily.
From average weather, 2021 to 2025: days that are warm but not hot, with few rainy days, score highest. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
This plan works for 2 to 6 days
Tap a number and the same city is rearranged to fit, with the must-sees kept.
Before Day 1. This trip moves south, so plan a car for all four days.Details
Flying in
The usual way in is a flight to Memphis, Tennessee, then a drive south to Oxford. Jackson also has an airport, which suits the way out. Check the road and the weather before each drive.
A car is needed
The days after Oxford are drives between towns, and there is little public transport between them. Book a rental car ahead and plan to drive in daylight on the country roads. The stops of each day are close together once you arrive.
Heat and storms
Summers are hot and humid, and spring and early summer bring thunderstorms and some tornado risk. Carry water, sun cover and a light rain layer, and check the forecast each morning.
First evening
Day 1 starts on foot in Oxford, so settle in, then take an easy walk around the town square as the day cools.
How much walking? On foot, about 1.3 miles a day, and 322.1 miles by car in all across 4 days. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.
Day 1. A campus and the house of Faulkner
4 stops · 1.3 mi on foot
Oxford on foot and by a short drive. The old circle of the University of Mississippi, the shaded green beside it, the house where William Faulkner lived, then the courthouse on the town square.
If you only have half a dayLyceum and The Circle, then Rowan Oak. The old heart of the University of Mississippi, then the house where William Faulkner lived from 1930 until 1962.
Breakfast
Biscuits with red-eye gravy
A split buttermilk biscuit with a thin gravy made from ham drippings and coffee, often with a slice of country ham, a salty Southern start to the day.
Local tip Ask for the gravy on the side if you want to taste it before you pour.
1
Morning
Lyceum and The Circle
The old heart of the University of Mississippi, eight buildings and several monuments around a circle, with the Lyceum among them. The district is tied to the civil rights movement. In 1962 a riot broke out here when segregationists tried to stop James Meredith, an African American applicant, from enrolling, and marshals sheltered in the Lyceum. Read the markers slowly.
Go whenMorning, before the campus fills.
Local tip Walk the circle and read the markers about 1962 and James Meredith. This is a working campus, so keep to the paths and be considerate of classes.
A shaded green of about 10 acres at the center of the campus, named for its oak, elm and magnolia trees. It is the tailgating area on football weekends, and an easy place to sit between buildings on any other day.
Go whenMorning or late afternoon (about 7:29 PM), under the trees.
Local tip On a football weekend the green is a crowd of tents and food, so on any other day it is a calm place to sit. Look up at the oaks and magnolias that give it its name.
Slices of firm green tomato, dipped in cornmeal and fried until crisp, served hot as a side or a small plate, often with a dipping sauce.
Local tip Eat them while they are hot, since they go soft as they cool.
About 12 min walk0.6 mi
3
Midday
Rowan Oak
The home of the author William Faulkner from 1930 until his death in 1962, a Greek Revival house built in 1844 on four landscaped acres beside woods. Faulkner wrote the outline of his novel A Fable on the walls of his office. A slave dwelling remains on the grounds from the antebellum years. Check ahead on visiting.
Go whenMidday, once the campus walk is done.
Local tip Walk the cedar alley to the house first, then the grounds and the woods behind. The slave dwelling on the grounds is part of the place, so read the signs. Check ahead on visiting.
About 12 min walk0.6 mi
4
Afternoon
Lafayette County Courthouse
The county courthouse on the town square, built in 1872 to replace an earlier building burned during the Civil War. The square around it is the center of Oxford, so walk a loop, read the plaques and sit on a bench.
Go whenAfternoon, as the square wakes up again.
Local tip Walk one loop of the square, read the plaques around the courthouse, and sit on a bench. The building replaced one burned in the Civil War.
A tangy, lightly spicy sauce made with mayonnaise and chili sauce, served with crackers, a green salad, fries or fried fish, a Mississippi table sauce.
Local tip Taste a little on its own first, then decide what to dip.
If it rains. Rain falls on many spring and summer afternoons. Do Rowan Oak and the campus walk first, keep the University of Mississippi Museum as your shelter, and save the square for a gap in the weather. Check ahead for storm warnings.
Day 2. The Delta, from Sumner to Indianola
4 stops · 127.5 mi by carAbout 3 h 51 min driving
A long day by car into the Delta, the flat cotton country of northwest Mississippi. A restored courthouse that tells the Emmett Till story, a blues museum in an old depot, a former plantation tied to the start of the Delta blues, then a museum for B.B. King. It is a long road, so check the road and the weather before you go.
If you only have half a dayEmmett Till Interpretive Center, then Delta Blues Museum. A courthouse restored as a museum of Emmett Till's murder and trial, then a blues museum in an old railroad depot.
Drive from Lafayette County CourthouseAbout 1 h 26 min by car55.8 mi
Where Day 1 ended.
Breakfast
Eggs, grits and toast
Eggs cooked to order with a bowl of grits, ground corn simmered until creamy, and buttered toast, a plain and filling start before the drive.
Local tip Add butter and a little salt to the grits.
1
Morning
Emmett Till Interpretive Center
In Sumner, the Tallahatchie County courthouse where the trial took place in September 1955, restored to hold the Emmett Till Interpretive Center. Emmett Till, a boy of 14 from Chicago, was abducted and murdered in August 1955 while visiting relatives in the Delta, and an all-white jury acquitted the two men tried for it. Come ready for a serious visit, and check ahead on how to go in.
Go whenMorning, with time to go slowly.
Local tip This is a serious visit about a murder and a trial, so allow time and keep your voice low. Check ahead on how to go in, and check the road before the drive north into the Delta.
About 43 min by car19.6 mi
2
Midday
Delta Blues Museum
A museum of the blues in Clarksdale, housed in the passenger depot built in 1926. It holds memorabilia and art, and a shack said to be where Muddy Waters lived in his youth on a plantation near Clarksdale, rebuilt inside. Check ahead on the opening.
Go whenMidday, as an indoor stop.
Local tip Start with the shack said to be where Muddy Waters lived, then follow the rooms through the story of the blues. Check ahead on the opening.
A small tamale of the Delta, a roll of cornmeal dough around seasoned meat, wrapped in paper and cooked in a spiced broth, eaten by hand from the wrapper.
Local tip Open the wrapper and let it cool a minute, and ask what the spice level is.
About 59 min by car32.7 mi
3
Afternoon
Dockery Plantation
A former cotton plantation and sawmill on the Sunflower River, started in 1895 and widely regarded as the place where Delta blues was born. Charley Patton, Robert Johnson and Howlin' Wolf lived and played here, among workers and sharecroppers. It is now a working farm on private land with some historic buildings, so check ahead on how to visit.
Go whenAfternoon, in daylight.
Local tip The land is private and a working farm, so check ahead on how and when you may visit, and keep to the signed areas. The blues story here grew among workers and sharecroppers.
A museum in Indianola dedicated to the Delta blues and to B.B. King, also called the Delta Interpretive Center. Take your time in the rooms, and check ahead on the opening.
Go whenLate afternoon, as an indoor stop.
Local tip Go through the rooms in order, from the Delta where B.B. King grew up to the music that followed. Check ahead on the opening before you drive down.
Catfish fillets, coated in cornmeal and fried, served with hush puppies, slaw and lemon, a plain dish of the Delta, where catfish is raised in ponds.
Local tip Squeeze the lemon on while it is hot, and watch for small bones.
If it rains. Delta fields are flat and storms are wide. The courthouse museum, the blues museum and the B.B. King Museum are indoors, and Dockery is outdoors, so keep it for a dry spell. Check ahead on the forecast and the road, since heavy rain can slow the country roads.
Day 3. Civil rights in Jackson, and the siege of Vicksburg
3 stops · 123.0 mi by carAbout 3 h 2 min driving
A serious day south and west. In Jackson, the home of Medgar Evers and the state museum of the civil rights movement, then a drive west to Vicksburg, where a battlefield park keeps the story of the siege of 1863. Check the road before you set off.
If you only have half a dayMedgar and Myrlie Evers Home, then Mississippi Civil Rights Museum. The 1956 house where Medgar Evers lived until 1963, then a state museum on the civil rights movement.
Drive from B.B. King MuseumAbout 1 h 56 min by car80.6 mi
Where Day 2 ended.
Breakfast
Cheese grits and eggs
A bowl of creamy grits stirred with cheese, with eggs and toast on the side, an easy breakfast before the first stop of the day.
Local tip Stir well and eat it while it is hot.
1
Morning
Medgar and Myrlie Evers Home
The Jackson home of the civil rights activist Medgar Evers and his wife Myrlie, built in 1956. Medgar Evers was shot in the carport here on June 11, 1963, by a white supremacist. The house is now a national monument. Come with care, and check ahead on how to visit.
Go whenMorning, before the city warms up.
Local tip This is the home of a family and the place where Medgar Evers was shot in 1963, so come with care. Check ahead on how to visit, since the house is a national monument and not a walk-in museum.
A state museum in Jackson that documents the civil rights movement in Mississippi between 1945 and 1970. It opened in December 2017 beside the Museum of Mississippi History. Some of the stories are hard. Allow plenty of time, and check ahead on tickets.
Go whenMidday, as an indoor stop.
Local tip It covers 1945 to 1970, and some rooms are hard. Give it real time, and let the second half of the day be lighter. Check ahead on tickets.
A plain Southern lunch of one meat and three vegetable sides, such as greens, black-eyed peas, mashed potatoes or macaroni and cheese, with cornbread.
Local tip Choose the sides that look freshest, and ask what the vegetable of the day is.
About 1 h 6 min by car39.0 mi
3
Afternoon
Vicksburg National Military Park
The site of the siege of Vicksburg, from March to July 1863, which ended with the surrender of the city and gave the Union control of the Mississippi River. The park holds monuments and markers, trenches, a tour road, a national cemetery with many unidentified graves, and the ironclad USS Cairo. It is a battlefield and a burial ground, so keep a respectful tone, and check ahead on the road.
Go whenAfternoon into evening (about 7:29 PM), as the light softens on the hills.
Local tip Drive the tour road with the windows down, stopping at the markers that catch your eye. It is a battlefield and a burial ground. Carry water, and check ahead on the road and the weather.
A rich dessert of chocolate cake or custard on a crumb crust, topped with chocolate and whipped cream, named for the dark mud of the Mississippi River.
Local tip Share a slice, since it is heavy after a long day.
If it rains. The Evers home is mostly outdoors, but the Civil Rights Museum is a full indoor visit. At Vicksburg drive the tour road and see the Cairo museum, and skip the trenches and cemetery paths in a storm. Check ahead on the road.
Day 4. Natchez and the Trace
4 stops · 71.6 mi by car
A day on the Mississippi River bluff. A stop on the old Natchez Trace, then two mansions built on slave labor and told as such, and last the landing below the bluff where the Trace began. It is a long road from Vicksburg, so check the road and the weather before you go.
If you only have half a dayLongwood, then Melrose. An unfinished octagonal mansion built in part by enslaved people, then a Greek Revival estate that is part of Natchez National Historical Park.
Drive from Vicksburg National Military ParkAbout 1 h 21 min by car51.1 mi
Where Day 3 ended.
Breakfast
Biscuits with butter and preserves
Warm biscuits with butter and fruit preserves, with coffee, a light start before the drive on the Trace.
Local tip Ask for fig or peach preserves if they are on the table.
1
Morning
Natchez Trace Parkway
A national parkway of 444 miles from Natchez to Nashville that follows the old Natchez Trace, a trail used for centuries by Native Americans and later by traders and travelers. The road is a two-lane drive with limited access. This stop is at Mount Locust, a restored inn, called a stand, on the old trail near milepost 15.5. Check ahead on the road.
Go whenMorning, with no hurry.
Local tip Drive it slowly with the windows down. The road has limited access and no stoplights, so fill the tank before you turn on, and check ahead on the road and the weather. Mount Locust is a restored inn on the old trail.
An octagonal mansion begun in 1859 for a cotton planter and built in part by enslaved people, said to be the largest octagonal house in the United States. Work stopped in 1861 when the craftsmen left at the start of the Civil War, and only the basement rooms were finished, so the upper floors are unfinished. A Freedmen's Picnic was held on the grounds on July 4, 1867. Check ahead on tours.
Go whenMidday, as an indoor stop.
Local tip The finished rooms are in the basement and the rest is raw brick and beams, left as the work stopped in 1861. The house was built in part by enslaved people, so read the story as well as the plan. Check ahead on tours.
A Greek Revival estate built for John T. McMurran, a lawyer and planter who used the forced labor of enslaved people. It is part of Natchez National Historical Park, furnished for the period just before the Civil War, with outbuildings that include one of the last remaining quarters for enslaved people in Natchez. Visits are by guided tour, so check ahead.
Go whenAfternoon, on the guided tour.
Local tip Take the tour of the house and the grounds, and look at the quarters for enslaved people among the outbuildings. It is run by the National Park Service, so check ahead on the tour times.
The landing below the bluff, where the Natchez Trace began. It was once a rough river port of gamblers and river pirates, and slave traders occasionally worked here. Above it, a park on the bluff marks the site of the second French Fort Rosalie. Walk it and look out over the Mississippi River.
Go whenLate afternoon into evening (about 7:29 PM), with the river light.
Local tip Stand at the river and think of where the Natchez Trace began. Above on the bluff is a park on the site of the second French Fort Rosalie. Mind the steep road between the two.
A slice of pecan pie, a sweet filling of eggs, sugar and pecans in a flaky crust, with hot coffee, a Southern way to end a long day on the river.
Local tip Share a slice, and ask for it warm.
If it rains. The Trace is a driving stop and can be skipped in a storm. Longwood, Melrose and Stanton Hall are tours, and Under-the-Hill is a short walk. Natchez sits on a bluff, so mind slick steps and roads, and check ahead on severe weather.
Departure day
After the last day. You finish in Natchez, a long road from a large airport, so give the last day room.Details
Leaving Natchez
Natchez lies on the Mississippi River in the southwest corner of the state, and the nearest large airports are a long road away. Check the road and the weather, and leave plenty of time before a flight.
Return the car
If you rented in Memphis, plan the long drive north or turn the car in at a closer airport. Ask the rental desk about a one-way drop before you book.
If you have a few hours
Walk the bluff park above the river in Natchez once more, where the second French Fort Rosalie stood, and look out over the Mississippi.
Questions people ask
When is the best time to visit Oxford?
By average weather from 2021 to 2025, March to April and October to November are the most comfortable months for walking around Oxford. This plan is built for april to May, which is one of the best months. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
How many days does this plan cover?
It covers 4 days in Oxford, planned for april to May. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.
Who is this plan for?
It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.
Is anything on this plan booked?
No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.
Can I plan my own days like this?
Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.
Can I change this plan?
Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.
How much walking is there?
On foot, about 1.3 miles a day, and 322.1 miles by car in all across 4 days. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.