A week on the island of Madeira with Funchal as the base and a rental car. One easy day in Funchal and Monte, then the east, the north east, the high peaks, the west and north coast, and the Paul da Serra plateau. Walks beside old water channels, big views and a slow last day.
7 daysAnyoneLate April28 places1 view
Copy this plan to your own trips, then change anything you like.
Before Day 1. The island is steep and green, so keep the first evening light and let the sea air do its work.Details
From the airport
Madeira's airport is on the east side of the island, a drive from Funchal along the south coast. Taxis, airport buses and rental desks wait outside arrivals. Strong wind can delay or divert flights, so keep your first evening flexible.
Getting around
Funchal is hilly but its old town and seafront can be walked. The rest of this trip is by car. Roads are steep and winding, with many tunnels, and parking at viewpoints and trailheads is tight, so leave early.
Weather
The south coast is often sunny while the mountains sit in cloud. Pack layers, a rain jacket and shoes with grip, and check the forecast for the peaks before each drive. Clouds can hide a viewpoint completely.
First evening
Walk down to the harbor, find a table and order something simple from the grill. Day 1 starts in the old town and the market, a short walk from most places to stay in Funchal.
Day 1. Funchal and Monte
5 stops · 3.5 km
An easy day to start. Walk the old town and the market, ride the cable car up to Monte, wander a tropical garden and come back down by cable car or, if it runs, by wicker sled.
1
MorningWorth the time
Funchal old town
A seafront quarter of narrow lanes, painted doors and small cafes, just east of the harbor. Wander without a map and look at the doors, which local artists have painted.
Go whenMorning, before the streets fill up.
Local tip Walk the narrow lanes near the sea and look at the painted doors. Leave the main road and follow whichever lane looks interesting.
About 3 min walk0.2 km
2
MorningWorth the time
Mercado dos Lavradores
The main market hall of Funchal, with a fish hall and stalls piled with tropical fruit, flowers and vegetables. Walk through slowly and ask before you taste a fruit you do not know.
Go whenMorning, when the stalls are full.
Local tip Walk the fish hall first, then the fruit and flowers. Ask before you taste, and ask the name of anything you cannot identify.
A round, soft bread baked on a flat stone, split and spread with garlic butter. Eat it warm as a snack or alongside a meal.
Local tip Eat it warm, and share one between two before the next course.
About 6 min walk0.5 km
3
MiddayA ride for the view
Funchal cable car
A cable car that climbs from the old town up to Monte, high above the city, with views over the roofs, the bay and the green hills. Check ahead that it is running.
Go whenLate morning, once the clouds clear off the hills.
Local tip Check ahead that it is running, because wind and maintenance can stop it. If it is closed, you can go up to Monte by road.
A large hillside garden of palms, ferns, ponds and tiled panels. Walk the paths slowly, and look out over Funchal from the terraces.
Go whenEarly afternoon, on a clear day.
Local tip The garden is on a steep hill, so wear comfortable shoes. Look for the tiled panels, and take your time on the terraces over Funchal.
About 4 min walk0.3 km
5
AfternoonA short, odd ride
Monte toboggan run
A famous old way down from Monte: a wicker sled steered by two men in white along a steep road. It is more of a short, bumpy ride than a thrill. Check ahead that it is running.
Go whenAfternoon, after the garden.
Local tip It is a brief ride on a steep road. Check ahead that it runs, and remember you can skip it and come down by cable car instead.
Dinner
Espetada
Beef on a long skewer, rubbed with garlic and salt and grilled over wood, often hung from a hook at the table. The classic Madeira meal for sharing.
Local tip Order a side of fried corn and a salad, and ask for it to come on the skewer.
If it rains. Funchal is a good wet day. The market is under cover and the old town has plenty of cafes. Skip the cable car if the cloud is low, because you will not see the view.
Day 2. The east, to the end of the island
3 stops · 32.2 km
A day by car to the dry, wind-blown east end. A town on a bay, a peninsula of red cliffs and a small fishing port, with a lot of sky.
Travel from Monte toboggan runAbout 35 min by car or transit20.6 km
Where Day 1 ended.
1
MorningWorth the time
Ponta de Sao Lourenco
A narrow peninsula of red and ochre cliffs that points out into the Atlantic. The walk is exposed, with little shade and strong wind, so carry water, wear a hat and check ahead on access.
Go whenMorning, before the sun and the wind build.
Local tip There is almost no shade. Bring plenty of water, a hat and sun protection, and check ahead on access and on the path, which can close in wind or after rain.
Limpets grilled with garlic butter and a squeeze of lemon, a local favorite from the rocky coast. Eat them straight from the shell.
Local tip Order them as a starter and share. They go well with cold beer or white wine.
About 7 min by car8.4 km
3
AfternoonA place to sit
Machico
A bay town on the island's east side with a long pebble beach, an old church and a seafront promenade. A relaxed place to stop on the way back to Funchal.
Go whenLate afternoon, on the way back.
Local tip Walk the seafront and look at the old church in the middle of town. Sit with a coffee and let the day settle.
If it rains. The peninsula walk is exposed and slippery in rain, so skip it. Keep Machico and Canical for a lunch by the sea, or swap with another day.
Day 3. The north east: levada, thatched houses and a forest
4 stops · 42.4 km
A longer day in the green, wet north east. A walk beside a water channel through laurel forest, a village of triangular thatched houses and two stops in the mountains on the way home.
Travel from MachicoAbout 28 min by car or transit12.2 km
Where Day 2 ended.
1
MorningA long walk
Levada do Caldeirao Verde
A walk beside a narrow water channel through thick forest to a high waterfall. There are tunnels and drops beside the path, so bring a torch, good shoes and check ahead for closures. Plan on several hours.
Go whenEarly morning, so you finish well before dark.
Local tip The path has tunnels, narrow ledges and drops. Bring a torch, wear shoes with grip, and check ahead for closures, because paths close after rain and rockfall.
About 26 min by car12.1 km
2
MiddayWorth a short visit
Santana
A mountain village known for its small triangular houses with steep thatched roofs, painted red, white and blue. Walk a few streets and see how the houses are built.
Go whenMidday, between the walk and the drive back.
Local tip The thatched houses are on the main road, so park once and walk. Some are shops and cafes now, and many are family homes, so be polite with a camera.
About 19 min by car17.8 km
3
AfternoonWorth a short stop
Ribeiro Frio
A cool, quiet spot in the mountains with a stream, a trout pond and the start of several forest paths.
Go whenMid afternoon, as the mist comes down.
Local tip It is cool here even on a warm day. Walk beside the stream and look at the trout in the clear water.
Lunch
Fresh trout
The streams of the north east are known for trout. Grilled or fried with a little lemon, it is a simple mountain lunch.
Local tip Ask for it plain, with potatoes, and see how fresh it tastes.
About 4 min walk0.3 km
4
AfternoonWorth a short walk
Balcoes viewpoint
A short, easy walk from Ribeiro Frio to a rocky ledge with a wide view over the valley and the peaks. Clouds can hide the view, so go and see.
Go whenMid afternoon, if the cloud has lifted.
Local tip The walk is short and mostly flat. If the viewpoint is in cloud, wait a few minutes, because it often clears.
If it rains. Levada paths are wet and dangerous in heavy rain, and often close. Swap this day for a Funchal day, and keep Santana for a clear spell.
Day 4. The high peaks
4 stops · 34.6 km
A day above the clouds, if the weather allows. A high viewpoint at dawn or in the morning, a hillside village known for wicker, and a view over Funchal to end on.
Travel from Balcoes viewpointAbout 12 min by car or transit4.0 km
Where Day 3 ended.
1
MorningWorth the time
Pico do Arieiro
The third highest peak on the island, with a viewpoint above the clouds. It is cold and windy at the top, and the view can disappear in minutes, so wear layers and check the forecast.
Go whenMorning, when the cloud often sits below you.
Local tip It is cold and windy at the top, so wear layers. If the summit is in cloud, wait a little or drive on and try the viewpoint just below.
Bolo de mel, a dark, spiced cake made with sugar cane honey, traditional on the island. A slice with a coffee is a small break in the afternoon.
Local tip Buy a slice in a shop and eat it slowly with a short coffee.
About 13 min by car13.7 km
4
EveningWorth the time
Pico dos Barcelos
A viewpoint on a hill above Funchal, with a wide look at the city, the bay and the cliffs to the west. A good place to watch the lights come on.
Go whenAround sunset, when the city lights come on.
Local tip It is a quiet viewpoint on a hill, so a short stop is enough. Bring a layer, because the breeze rises as the sun goes down.
If it rains. Clouds often hide the summit. Check the live conditions before you drive up, and move this day to a clear one if you can.
Day 5. The west and north coast
5 stops · 50.2 km
A long day of driving with a lot to see: a sea cliff with a glass floor, a river-mouth town, an ancient forest, natural lava pools and a black sand beach. Leave early and expect many tunnels.
Travel from Pico dos BarcelosAbout 16 min by car or transit6.1 km
Where Day 4 ended.
1
MorningWorth the time
Cabo Girao skywalk
One of the highest sea cliffs in Europe, with a glass-floored platform that hangs out over the drop. Look down at the terraced fields far below. Check ahead that the skywalk is open.
Go whenMorning, before the tour buses arrive.
Local tip Step out on the glass floor if you are comfortable with heights, and look down at the small fields far below. Check ahead that it is open.
A small town on the south coast, set around a river mouth, with a church, a seafront and a quiet main street. A good place for a coffee before the road climbs north.
Go whenMid morning, for coffee.
Local tip Walk to the seafront and the church in the main square. It is a calm break before the long drive.
A high plateau of very old laurel trees, twisted and covered in moss. Part of the Madeira laurel forest, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is often misty, and the mist is part of the look.
Go whenMidday, in whatever weather you get.
Local tip Walk between the old trees. They are best in mist, so a gray day is not a bad day here. Wear a warm layer and shoes with grip.
About 18 min by car or transit6.9 km
4
AfternoonWorth the time
Porto Moniz lava pools
Natural swimming pools in black volcanic rock at the northwest tip of the island, filled by the sea. Check ahead on sea conditions, because the pools close when the waves are big.
Go whenAfternoon, when the sea is calm.
Local tip Check ahead on sea conditions, because the pools close in big waves. The rocks are slippery, so wear water shoes.
If it rains. Sea cliffs and lava pools are not for stormy days, and the pools close in big waves. Keep Cabo Girao and Ribeira Brava, and move the north coast to a calm day.
Day 6. Paul da Serra, Rabacal and Calheta
4 stops · 28.1 km
A day on the high plateau and its water channels. A bare moorland drive, a walk to a waterfall and a spring-fed pool, and a sunny beach town to end on.
Travel from Seixal beachAbout 23 min by car or transit9.5 km
Where Day 5 ended.
1
MorningA drive to enjoy
Paul da Serra
A wide, windswept plateau high above the west of the island, with grass and heather instead of forest. The road across it feels almost like another place. Fog can come in fast, so drive carefully.
Go whenMorning, before the fog rolls in.
Local tip Fog can come in fast and the road has no lights. Drive slowly, use your lights, and pull over if you cannot see.
A short walk beside a water channel to a tall waterfall that drops into a green bowl of rock. Access to Rabacal changes, with a shuttle or a walk down from the road, so check ahead.
Go whenMorning, before the crowds.
Local tip Check ahead on access to Rabacal, which may mean a shuttle or a walk down from the road. The path can be wet, so wear grip shoes.
A longer walk beside the water channel to a pool fed by many small waterfalls. The path has drops and wet rock, so wear grip shoes, bring a torch and check ahead on closures.
Go whenLate morning, when the light reaches the pool.
Local tip The path has drops and wet stones. Bring a torch, check ahead on closures and turn around if the weather turns.
About 13 min by car10.7 km
4
AfternoonA place to sit
Calheta
A sunny town on the southwest coast, with a marina, a sandy beach and a long history of growing sugar cane. A calm place to end the day.
Go whenLate afternoon, then a slow dinner.
Local tip Walk the marina and the beach, then sit with a drink. The sun sets over the sea from here.
Calheta has grown sugar cane for centuries, and the small Madeira bananas are sweet and dense. Look for both in a shop or a cafe.
Local tip Try a small banana from the island, which tastes quite different from the ones back home.
If it rains. Fog and wet paths make the plateau and the waterfalls a poor choice. Check ahead on access, and swap this day with a Funchal day.
Day 7. A slow last day
3 stops · 30.7 km
A day to go easy: a fishing village just west of Funchal, a walk along the seafront and a tasting of Madeira wine. No long drives, and time for a proper dinner.
Travel from CalhetaAbout 34 min by car or transit20.2 km
Where Day 6 ended.
1
MorningWorth the time
Camara de Lobos
A small fishing village on a bay, with painted boats on the rocks and steep lanes up the hillside. Walk along the harbor and look at the nets.
Go whenMorning, when the boats are in.
Local tip Walk along the harbor and up one of the steep lanes for a look back at the bay. The painted boats on the rocks are the classic view.
A drink of sugar cane rum, honey and lemon juice, made by hand with a wooden stick. Camara de Lobos is a village many islanders link with it. Sip it slowly, because it is stronger than it tastes.
Local tip Take it easy if you are driving, and have food with it.
About 16 min by car9.4 km
2
AfternoonA slow walk
Funchal seafront promenade
A long walk along the water in Funchal, past the marina, the harbor and the old forts. Take it slowly and sit down whenever you like.
Go whenAfternoon, then stop for a coffee.
Local tip Walk as far as you like and turn back when you feel like it. The path is flat, with plenty of benches.
Treat
A Madeira wine tasting
Madeira is a fortified wine that has been made on the island for centuries, from dry to sweet. A tasting of two or three styles in a quiet cellar or wine bar is a calm way to end the afternoon.
Local tip Start with a dry style and work toward a sweet one, and ask how each is meant to be served.
About 14 min walk1.1 km
3
EveningWorth a short look
Fort of Sao Tiago
A small yellow fort beside the old town, on the edge of the sea. Look out over the water and watch the sky change.
Go whenAround sunset, to end the trip.
Local tip Walk to the edge of the fort and look along the coast. A good place to say goodbye to the old town.
Fresh fish, grilled or in a stew, with milho frito, little cubes of fried cornmeal. A calm last evening in the old town.
Local tip Ask what came in that day, and book ahead if you want an outdoor table.
If it rains. A good wet day. The harbor, the wine tasting and a long dinner all work in the rain. Walk the seafront between showers.
Departure day
After the last day. The airport is a drive from Funchal, so give the morning some slack.Details
Check-out
Ask your hotel whether it can keep a bag after check-out. Then you can take a last slow walk along the seafront or buy a bottle of Madeira wine to carry home.
Returning the car
Fill the tank the day before. Rental return is at the airport, and the road from Funchal can be slow at busy times, so allow extra time. Take photos of the car when you hand it back.
To the airport
Taxis and airport buses run from Funchal. Because wind can affect flights on the island, check your flight status before you leave town, and do not plan anything tight on the last morning.
Wine to carry
Madeira wine travels well, but liquids are limited in hand luggage. Pack bottles in checked luggage, wrapped in clothes, or buy them at the airport after security.
Questions people ask
How many days does this plan cover?
It covers 7 days in Madeira, planned for late April. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.
Who is this plan for?
It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.
Is anything on this plan booked?
No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.
Can I plan my own days like this?
Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.
Can I change this plan?
Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.
How much walking is there?
Each day has about 3.5 to 44.2 kilometers between its stops, and 149.1 kilometers in all across 7 days. A short hop is a walk and a longer one a ride. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.