A quiet getaway for two in the mountains outside Tokyo: a small train up the hill, a soak in the hot springs and a long dinner, then a volcanic valley, a lake with a boat and a shrine, and a slow last morning. Mount Fuji is a bonus, not a promise.
3 daysAnyoneLate November11 places
Copy this plan to your own trips, then change anything you like.
From average weather, 2021 to 2025: days that are warm but not hot, with few rainy days, score highest. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
This plan works for 2 to 6 days
Tap a number and the same city is rearranged to fit, with the must-sees kept.
Before Day 1. Hakone is a short trip out of Tokyo, so pack light and leave the big bag behind if you can.Details
From Tokyo
Trains run from Tokyo toward Odawara, the gateway to the hills, and a small mountain train climbs on from there. Some limited express trains need a reserved seat. A regional pass covers many of the trains, buses, ropeways and boats, so check ahead whether it suits you.
Where to stay
A ryokan, a traditional inn with a private or shared hot spring, is the heart of this trip. Dinner and breakfast usually come with the room, so tell the inn about any allergy when you book.
Onsen manners
Wash and rinse before you enter the bath, and no swimsuits in the water. Rules on tattoos vary from inn to inn, so ask before you book.
First evening
Take the train, settle into the room and leave the rest of the day to the bath and a long dinner. Day 1 starts at the station at the foot of the hill, so you will already be on your way.
Day 1. The mountain train and an evening in the hot springs
3 stops · 7.9 km
An easy first day. You ride a small train up the hill, walk in a park, then spend the evening in the bath and at a long dinner. Nothing here needs a time.
1
MorningWorth a short look
Hakone-Yumoto Station
The gateway to the hills, where the main line ends and the small mountain train begins. A few steps from the station there are shops and small cafes, so it is a good place to arrive and have a first look around.
Go whenMorning, as soon as you arrive.
Local tip Walk the small streets near the station before you board the mountain train. Shops sell local sweets and wooden crafts.
Buckwheat noodles, served hot in broth or cold on a tray with a dipping sauce, in a small shop on the street by the station. A light lunch before the climb.
Local tip Slurp the noodles. In Japan it is polite, and it keeps them from going soft.
About 9 min by car6.0 km
2
MiddayWorth the time
Hakone Tozan Railway
A small mountain railway that climbs through forest and over river gorges, turning back and forth in zigzags as it goes up. The ride itself is the point, so sit by a window and watch the valley fall away.
Go whenLate morning, with a seat by a window.
Local tip The train stops and reverses at a few points on the climb. That is how it gets up the hill, so do not worry.
Back at the inn, soak in the hot spring before dinner, in the shared bath or in a private one reserved for the two of you. Let the water do the work and put the phone away.
Local tip Wash and rinse before you enter the bath, and no swimsuits in the water. Rules on tattoos vary, so ask the inn ahead.
Dinner
A kaiseki dinner at the inn
A long, slow dinner of many small dishes, served in your room or a private dining room: something raw, something simmered, something grilled, rice and a sweet at the end. Each dish is small, and the evening is the point.
Local tip Tell the inn about any allergy when you book, and arrive at the table on time, since the dishes are cooked in order.
If it rains. The railway rides well in rain, with mist on the hills. Keep the train and the greenhouse in the park, and skip the lawns. A long soak in the hot spring is a good answer to a wet afternoon.
Day 2. Volcano, lake and old road
5 stops · 10.9 km
The fullest day, but still unhurried. Art in the open air, a steaming volcanic valley, a boat on the lake, a shrine with a gate in the water and a walk under old trees. Skip a stop if you want a slower day.
Breakfast
A Japanese breakfast at the inn
A set breakfast of grilled fish, rice, miso soup and pickles, often served in the room. A good start before a day of ropeways and boats.
Local tip Ask the night before what time breakfast is served.
1
MorningWorth the time
Hakone Open-Air Museum
A sculpture park on a green hillside, with large works among the trees and a pavilion of paintings by Picasso. Walk without a plan and let the hill do the rest.
Go whenMorning, when the paths are calm.
Local tip Walk the whole hill once without stopping, then go back to the works you liked best.
A steaming valley of yellow rock and volcanic gas, reached by a ropeway that crosses the hills. Sulfur vapor hangs over the ground and the smell is strong. Check ahead, because the ropeway can stop and the area can close when the gas rises.
Go whenMidday, if the ropeway is running and the air is clear.
Local tip The ropeway can stop and the area can close when volcanic gas is high, so check ahead. People with breathing problems are told to stay away. Look for the local snack, black eggs boiled in the hot spring water.
A local snack: eggs boiled in the hot spring water until the shell turns black. The inside is an ordinary boiled egg, with a faint taste of the water.
Local tip The shells stain your fingers, so take a napkin. Check ahead that the valley is open before you plan a stop for them.
About 9 min by car or transit2.4 km
3
AfternoonWorth the time
Lake Ashi
A long mountain lake with forested hills all around. A sightseeing boat crosses it, and you look back at the volcanic hills from the water. On a clear day Mount Fuji can show in the distance, but never count on it.
Go whenAfternoon, near sunset (about 4:38 PM), when the light is low on the water.
Local tip Sit on the open deck for the view of the hills. Mount Fuji depends on the weather and the cloud, and some days it does not show at all.
A stretch of the old road between Edo and Kyoto, lined with tall old cedar trees. Walk the avenue slowly in the late light and then go home to the bath.
Go whenLate afternoon, around sunset (about 4:38 PM).
Local tip The old road is uneven stone in places, so wear shoes with a grip, and stay to the side for the cedar roots.
Dinner
A quiet set dinner
After the long day, a simple set meal at a small restaurant near your inn or at the inn itself. Rice, soup, one main dish and a few small sides.
Local tip Keep it light, because tomorrow is a slow day.
If it rains. Keep the Open-Air Museum, which has an indoor pavilion, and skip the lake boat and the avenue in heavy rain. Check ahead whether the ropeway is running. Cloud over the volcanic valley can hide it completely.
Day 3. A slow morning and an optional day for Mount Fuji
3 stops · 17.4 km
A last day at your own pace: a lazy start, the old road checkpoint, a warm drink, a high plain and a quiet museum. If the sky is clear, a day to the Fuji Five Lakes is on offer as an extra, but the mountain may be hidden in cloud.
1
MorningWorth a short visit
Hakone Checkpoint
A rebuilt barrier of the Edo period, where travelers on the old road were stopped and checked. A small museum next to it explains what the guards looked for.
Go whenMorning, after a slow breakfast.
Local tip Read the signs inside about how travelers were stopped. Check ahead, because small museums keep their own days.
On the old road above the lake, a few teahouses in the old style serve amazake, a warm, sweet drink of fermented rice, with rice cakes on the side. A good stop on a cold morning.
Local tip Teahouses keep their own days, so check ahead before you walk up to one.
About 20 min by car15.7 km
2
MiddayWorth the time
Sengokuhara
A wide upland of grass and open sky north of the lake, a place for a long walk with space around you. Dress for wind.
Go whenMidday, when it is the warmest part of the day.
Local tip The air is cooler and the wind stronger than by the lake, so bring a layer.
If it rains. The museum next to the checkpoint and the art museum are indoors, so keep those and skip the high plain. In poor weather the Mount Fuji day is not worth it, because the mountain will be hidden.
Departure day
After the last day. Leave the inn without a rush and the mountain stays kind to the end.Details
Check-out
Inns often serve breakfast at a set hour and ask guests to leave by a fixed time, so ask the evening before. A last soak in the morning is a good way to start the day.
Back to Tokyo
The way down is the same train in reverse, or a direct service if you reserved one. Pick the earlier option, because trains and buses fill up on weekend afternoons.
If you add Mount Fuji
The Fuji Five Lakes are a separate day out from Hakone and are easiest with a car or a pre-booked transfer. The view of the mountain depends on cloud, so treat it as a bonus and check the forecast the evening before.
Questions people ask
When is the best time to visit Hakone?
By average weather from 2021 to 2025, April to November are the most comfortable months for walking around Hakone. This plan is built for late November, which is one of the best months. Crowds and prices change through the year, so check them before you book.
How many days does this plan cover?
It covers 3 days in Hakone, planned for late November. Each day is built around a small number of stops, with room to rest.
Who is this plan for?
It was planned for most travelers. The pace and the places reflect that, so check it fits how you travel.
Is anything on this plan booked?
No. Places marked "book ahead" need a reservation. Hours, prices and availability change, so confirm before you go.
Can I plan my own days like this?
Yes. Archie drafts a day by day plan for your dates and takes your pace, the weather and who is travelling into account. You can start one from the Archie app.
Can I change this plan?
Yes. It is a starting point you can change to fit your own trip: swap a place, add a day or move the pace.
How much walking is there?
Each day has about 7.9 to 17.4 kilometers between its stops, and 36.3 kilometers in all across 3 days. A short hop is a walk and a longer one a ride. Distances are straight-line estimates, so allow extra for the streets.