8 days in Buenos Aires

A morning on the great square where the city began, then a long avenue left open for the afternoon. Walk it as far as you like.

1. Breakfast

   Medialunas and a coffee

   The medialuna is a small, sweet crescent roll, the standard breakfast of the city. Have two with a coffee and warm milk at a counter.

   Local tip Order a "cortado" for a small coffee with a splash of milk.
2. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   Plaza de Mayo

   The great square of the city, with a pyramid in the middle and the main buildings of the country around it. Start here and walk slowly around the edge.

   Go when Morning, when the light falls on the pink house and the square is calm.

   Local tip Look for the white head scarves painted on the paving around the pyramid. They mark a long-running weekly gathering of mothers in the square.

   

   About 2 min walk0.1 km
3. 2
   MorningWorth a short look

   Casa Rosada

   The pink government house at the east end of the square, with a balcony that has appeared in many famous photographs. Look at it from the square.

   Go when Morning, from the square, right after you arrive.

   Local tip Walk around to the side for a different view of the building and the park behind it.

   

   About 4 min walk0.3 km
4. 3
   MorningWorth a short visit

   Metropolitan Cathedral

   The city’s cathedral on the north side of the square, with a stately front and a quiet, dim interior. Step in and sit for a minute.

   Go when Mid-morning, before the day gets busy.

   Local tip Go in through the side door if the front is crowded. Inside, look for the side chapel of the general who freed much of South America.

   

   About 2 min walk0.2 km
5. 4
   MiddayWorth a short look

   The Cabildo

   The low white building that was once the town hall of the colonial city, with an arcade along the front. A small, calm break after the busy square.

   Go when Midday, with an empanada from a nearby stall.

   Local tip Walk through the arcade and into the inner courtyard, which is calmer than the street outside.

   

6. Lunch

   A cafe with marble tables

   The old cafes along the avenue have marble tables, dark wood and waiters in long aprons. Sit down for a sandwich or a plate of the day and stay for the afternoon.

   Local tip There is no rush. Order one more coffee and a glass of water, and watch the street.

   About 6 min walk0.5 km
7. 5
   AfternoonA long walk, your pace

   Avenida de Mayo

   A long, elegant avenue that runs west from the square, lined with grand old buildings, balconies and old cafes. Walk as much or as little as you want.

   Go when Afternoon, when you want to walk and look up.

   Local tip Look up above the shop signs. The upper floors carry the balconies, domes and carved faces of the old buildings.

   

8. Dinner

   A plate of empanadas

   Empanadas are small baked or fried pastries filled with beef, cheese or corn. Order a few to share as a starter, or make a light dinner of them.

   Local tip Each province has its own filling, so ask what the house recommends.

   

The oldest barrio is made for wandering. Take the morning along the cobbled lanes, then spend the afternoon in a park or wherever you end up.

1. 1
   MorningWorth a short look

   Santo Domingo Convent

   An old convent on the edge of San Telmo, with a calm church and a quiet front. A gentle way to start the morning.

   Go when Morning, on your way into San Telmo.

   Local tip Look at the front of the church, which still carries marks from the fighting of the early nineteenth century.

   

   About 7 min walk0.5 km
2. 2
   MorningWorth the time

   Calle Defensa

   The old street that runs through San Telmo, lined with antique shops, old houses and doorways with tiles on the floor. Walk it slowly and look into the open passages.

   Go when Morning, before the street fills with people.

   Local tip Look for the narrow passages between the houses. Some open onto courtyards with small shops and a bit of shade.

3. Treat

   Alfajores for the walk

   An alfajor is two soft cookies with dulce de leche between them, sometimes dipped in chocolate. Buy one or two from a small shop and eat them on a bench.

   Local tip Look for a shop that bakes its own, and compare them over the day.

   

   About 4 min walk0.3 km
4. 3
   MiddayWorth the time

   Plaza Dorrego

   The old square of San Telmo, where antiques are sold and street musicians play at weekends. A good place to sit with a coffee and watch the lane fill up.

   Go when Midday, with a coffee, then stay as long as you like.

   Local tip The Sunday antiques fair around the square is the famous event of the barrio. Go early if you want to walk through without elbows.

   

5. Lunch

   Choripán from a street stall

   A choripán is a grilled sausage in a crusty bread roll, with a spoon of a bright herb sauce called chimichurri. A quick lunch to eat standing up in the lane.

   Local tip Ask for it "completo" if you want the toppings.

   

   About 9 min walk0.7 km
6. 4
   AfternoonA resting stop

   Parque Lezama

   A large, shady park on the edge of San Telmo, with old trees, benches and a hill in the middle. Pick a bench, or choose another street instead.

   Go when Afternoon, when the trees give shade.

   Local tip Bring a bag of food from the lane, find a bench and watch the football games and the chess players on the paths.

   

7. Dinner

   A parrilla steakhouse grill

   The parrilla is the traditional grill of the country, with beef cooked slowly over coals. Share a mixed grill, a salad and a bottle of red wine.

   Local tip Say "a punto" for medium, or "jugoso" for more rare, and share a plate of provoleta, grilled cheese, to start.

A colorful barrio by the old port. Spend the morning on a short walk and keep the afternoon for the river, or somewhere else if you prefer.

1. 1
   MorningWorth a short look

   La Bombonera

   The famous stadium of the Boca football club, built into the streets of its barrio. Look at it from outside, and join a visit only if you are a fan.

   Go when Morning, on the way to Caminito.

   Local tip The streets around the stadium are lively on match days and quiet otherwise. Go on an ordinary day if you prefer calm.

   

   About 6 min walk0.4 km
2. 2
   MorningWorth a short walk

   Caminito

   A short pedestrian street of bright houses, painted metal and tango dancers, the picture most people have of La Boca. It is a small place, so one slow walk is enough.

   Go when Morning, before the tour groups arrive.

   Local tip Keep your phone in a pocket on the busy lane, and plan an official taxi or an app ride to and from the barrio.

   

3. Lunch

   Fugazzeta pizza

   Fugazzeta is a thick pizza stuffed with cheese and topped with sweet onion, an old Italian-immigrant dish of the port barrios. A slice is a full lunch.

   Local tip It is rich, so share one between two and add a green salad.

   

   About 8 min walk0.6 km
4. 3
   AfternoonWorth a short look

   The old transporter bridge

   A tall iron bridge over the Riachuelo, built when ships and goods were still moved by cable. Walk along the river to look at it, or turn back and take a taxi.

   Go when Afternoon, when the light is warm on the water.

   Local tip It is a walk along the river from Caminito. If the road feels long, take an app ride or a taxi and walk back along the quay.

   

5. Treat

   Helado by the water

   Ice cream in Argentina follows an Italian tradition, with dulce de leche and chocolate flavors as common as fruit. Walk with a cone and choose your own flavors.

   Local tip Ask for two flavors in one cone and finish before it melts.

   

A day of marble, trees and art. The morning has a plan and the afternoon belongs to you: a museum, a garden or a long coffee.

1. Travel from The old transporter bridgeAbout 17 min by car or transit6.5 km

   Where Day 3 ended.
2. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   Recoleta Cemetery

   A small city of marble tombs, narrow lanes and cats, a famous cemetery. Walk the lanes without a map and look at the sculpture.

   Go when Morning, when the lanes are quiet.

   Local tip Walk without a map and look at the doors, the angels and the glass. Wander off the main lane to find the quiet corners.

   

   About 3 min walk0.2 km
3. 2
   Morning10 minutes is enough

   Basilica of Our Lady of the Pillar

   A small colonial church beside the cemetery, with a white front and a cool, quiet inside. Sit down for a minute.

   Go when Morning, right after the cemetery.

   Local tip Look at the carved altar inside, then sit on the steps of the square for a moment.

   

4. Lunch

   A milanesa for lunch

   A milanesa is a thin cutlet of beef or chicken, breaded and fried, served with fries or a salad. Napolitana style comes topped with ham, tomato sauce and cheese.

   Local tip Share one between two if you are not very hungry. The portions are large.

   

   About 5 min walk0.4 km
5. 3
   AfternoonPick your rooms

   National Museum of Fine Arts

   A large museum of art with a long run of works from Europe and from Argentina. Choose a few rooms and leave the others for another day.

   Go when Afternoon, when you feel like a cool, quiet room.

   Local tip Choose two or three rooms, perhaps the Argentine painters first, and stop when you are tired.

   

6. Dinner

   Gnocchi, the dish of the 29th

   On the 29th of each month, many families eat gnocchi, an old custom tied to the days before payday. Look for it on menus, especially around that date.

   Local tip Gnocchi is a good dish to share, with a tomato or a creamy cheese sauce.

   

   About 3 min walk0.3 km
7. 4
   Afternoon10 minutes is enough

   Floralis Genérica

   A giant metal flower of steel and aluminum that stands in a pool beside a park. Come for a few minutes, then walk on through the park.

   Go when Late afternoon, around sunset (about 7:07 PM).

   Local tip Walk around the pool and sit on the grass. The light on the metal changes through the day.

   

8. Treat

   Dulce de leche on everything

   Dulce de leche is a thick milk caramel, and it appears in cookies, cakes, pancakes and ice cream. Try a spoonful on toast or in a pastry.

   Local tip Look for the small tin or jar in a grocery as a souvenir.

   

The barrio of parks and long walks. Start with the gardens in the morning, then wander the streets in the afternoon, wherever you feel like going.

1. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   El Rosedal

   A rose garden with a lake, a white bridge and paths among the beds, in the big park of Palermo. Walk around it slowly and sit by the water.

   Go when Morning, when the paths are quiet and the roses are open.

   Local tip Cross the white bridge and walk around the lake, then sit on a bench by the water.

2. Breakfast

   Mate in the park

   Mate is a hot herbal drink sipped through a metal straw from a gourd and passed around in a circle. In the park you will see people sharing it on the grass.

   Local tip If someone offers you a turn, drink it all, say thanks and hand the gourd back. Do not stir the straw.

   

   About 13 min walk1.0 km
3. 2
   MorningWorth the time

   Botanical Garden

   A quiet green garden with old trees, greenhouses and statues, behind the busy streets of Palermo. Meant for sitting, not for rushing.

   Go when Late morning, when the shade is deepest.

   Local tip Look for the old greenhouse and the small statues among the trees. The garden is also home to many cats.

   

4. Lunch

   A late brunch in Palermo

   The cafes of Palermo serve eggs, toast, fresh juice and pastries until well into the afternoon. A relaxed table for a slow midday.

   Local tip Pick a place with tables on the sidewalk and stay for a second coffee.

   About 15 min walk1.2 km
5. 3
   AfternoonWander and choose

   Palermo Soho

   A grid of leafy streets with small shops, cafes and a lively square with benches. Choose a street and see where it goes.

   Go when Afternoon, when the streets are calm.

   Local tip Pick a side street and follow it. Plaza Serrano is the busy heart, and the streets around it are quieter.

   

   About 12 min walk1.0 km
6. 4
   AfternoonWander and choose

   Palermo Hollywood

   A neighborhood of low houses, bars and restaurants, quieter in the afternoon than at night. A good place to walk without a plan.

   Go when Late afternoon, before the evening crowd.

   Local tip This barrio fills up at night. If you plan to come back for dinner, go by app ride or official taxi and keep your phone out of sight on the street.

7. Dinner

   Pizza and fainá

   In the city, a slice of mozzarella pizza is often paired with a slice of fainá, a flat bread made of chickpea flour, and eaten together standing at a counter.

   Local tip Put the fainá on top of the pizza, the way locals do.

   

A flat, easy day of old docks and water. Plan the morning along the canal, then leave the afternoon for the wild green reserve at the end.

1. Travel from Palermo HollywoodAbout 19 min by car or transit7.3 km

   Where Day 5 ended.
2. 1
   MorningWorth a short look

   Puente de la Mujer

   A white footbridge shaped like a pair of dancers, over the old dock. Cross it once, then follow the water.

   Go when Morning, or at dusk when the lights come on.

   Local tip Walk to the middle of the bridge for a view along the old dock, then cross and look back.

   

   About 2 min walk0.1 km
3. 2
   MorningWorth a short look

   Presidente Sarmiento museum ship

   A long gray training ship that now sits in the dock as a museum. Look at it from the quay or step aboard if you like ships.

   Go when Morning, after the bridge.

   Local tip Look at the long gray hull from the quay. If you board, plan on a short visit, because the decks are narrow.

   

   About 4 min walk0.3 km
4. 3
   MiddayA lunch stop

   Puerto Madero docks

   Old brick warehouses along the water, now turned into homes, offices and places to eat. Walk the quays and pick a spot for lunch.

   Go when Midday, with the water beside you.

   Local tip The quays are lined with grills. Walk one length of the dock before you choose, and pick a shady table.

   

5. Lunch

   A grill by the docks

   The quays are lined with grills serving beef, sausages and sweetbreads. A sit-down lunch with the water beside you.

   Local tip Ask for a half portion of a cut if you would like to try more than one thing.

   

   About 18 min walk1.4 km
6. 4
   AfternoonWorth the time

   Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve

   A wide green reserve of marsh, reeds and paths beside the river, a short walk from the downtown towers. Walk as far as the water and turn back when you like.

   Go when Afternoon, when the light is soft.

   Local tip Bring water and a hat, because there is little shade. Check ahead that the reserve is open on your day.

   

A day for the grand buildings of the center. The morning has a plan, and the afternoon can end in a bookshop, a park or a long dinner.

1. Breakfast

   A tostado at the counter

   A tostado is a toasted ham and cheese sandwich, pressed flat and cut in half. It is a light breakfast or snack, found at every counter.

   Local tip Order a "jugo de naranja" with it, a fresh-squeezed orange juice.
2. 1
   MorningWorth the time

   Teatro Colón

   The grand opera house of the city, a horseshoe of red and gold. A guided visit is the usual way in, so check ahead for tours before the day.

   Go when Morning, with a guided visit booked ahead.

   Local tip Look up at the painted dome over the main hall. A guided visit is the usual way to see the rooms behind the stage.

   

   About 4 min walk0.3 km
3. 2
   Morning10 minutes is enough

   The Obelisco

   A tall white obelisk in the middle of a very wide avenue, the symbol of the city. Look at it, then cross to the other side.

   Go when Any time, on your way between places.

   Local tip Look at it from the pedestrian island, then go on. The avenue is very wide, so cross at the lights.

   

   About 10 min walk0.8 km
4. 3
   MiddayWorth a short visit

   Palacio Barolo

   A tall office building on the Avenida de Mayo, built with ideas from a long poem. Check ahead for a guided visit or enjoy the outside from the street.

   Go when Midday, then walk along the Avenida de Mayo.

   Local tip Look at the front from across the street first, and ask at the door whether a visit is possible on your day.

   

   About 21 min walk1.7 km
5. 4
   AfternoonWorth the time

   A bookshop in an old theatre

   A grand old theatre on Avenida Santa Fe that is now a bookshop, with painted ceilings and shelves on the stage. Sit down with a book or just look up.

   Go when Afternoon, when you want a quiet place to sit.

   Local tip Walk to the stage at the back, where a small cafe sits among the shelves, and look up at the old theatre boxes above.

6. Dinner

   A milonga tango evening

   A milonga is a social dance where people dance tango to recorded music, often with lessons earlier in the evening. Come to watch, or take a lesson, and have a late dinner before.

   Local tip Dinner starts late in this city. Book a ride home for the end of the night and keep your phone out of sight on the way out.

A last easy day. A modern art museum in the morning and a garden, then the afternoon is yours, with no list to finish.

1. 1
   MorningPick your floor

   MALBA

   A modern museum of Latin American art in a plain, bright building. Choose one floor and leave when you are ready.

   Go when Morning, when the rooms are quiet.

   Local tip Choose one floor and give it time. Take a break between rooms rather than trying to see it all.

   

   About 7 min walk0.6 km
2. 2
   MiddayWorth the time

   Japanese Garden

   A calm garden with a pond, a red bridge and paths among carp and pines. A restful place in the middle of the big city.

   Go when Midday, when the pond is still.

   Local tip Cross the red bridge slowly and look for the carp. A cup of tea in the garden is a quiet way to end the visit.

   

3. Treat

   Merienda, the afternoon snack

   Merienda is the afternoon pause, with tea or coffee, medialunas and something sweet. A good way to spend the open afternoon.

   Local tip Order a tea with a plate of small sandwiches, called sandwiches de miga, if the place has them.

   

   About 10 min walk0.8 km
4. 3
   AfternoonWorth a short visit

   Evita Museum

   A small museum in an old house that tells the story of Eva Perón through clothes, photographs and film. A short visit, or skip it for a last walk.

   Go when Afternoon, if you want one more indoor room.

   Local tip Read the notes in each room and skip the ones that do not interest you. It takes only a short visit.

   

5. Dinner

   A long dinner to finish

   End the trip with a table for a long dinner: a parrilla, a plate of pasta or whatever you have enjoyed most this week. Dinner is late here, and nobody will move you along.

   Local tip Ask the server what they would order, and then order that.